M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: jrw21 on January 01, 2014, 09:38:32 PM
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Dyno Run #1 265whp 18psi: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx5oh5CHy7s
Dyno Run #2 330whp/281 torque 25psi:
Dyno Run #3 340whp/299 torque 26psi: 80lb/hr injectors @ ~90% duty cycle
Hello all. I am in the beginning stages of a build on my 199k mile 91 318is. I decided to share this project with all of you. This will be a slow build so be patient with me.
I have no goal at this time. Just building..we will see what happens if this ever gets "finished" anyway.
First up was fabbing the manifold, downpipe, and exhaust. I built the manifold out of s52 header and the stock m42 header. The s52 header was from my old 8psi boosted m3 (supercharged). I sold the m3 last year to prepare for this project. The exhaust was built from 2.5" mandrel bends and two "cherry bomb" type mufflers.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20131229_120300_RichtoneHDR_zps63277087.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20131229_
120300_RichtoneHDR_zps63277087.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20131229_120910_RichtoneHDR_zps5ec75799.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20131229_120910_RichtoneHDR_zps5ec75799.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20131229_120929_RichtoneHDR_zps8c9fee85.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20131229_120929_RichtoneHDR_zps8c9fee85.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20131229_120810_RichtoneHDR_zpsdb0e9f72.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20131229_120810_RichtoneHDR_zpsdb0e9f72.jpg.html)
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Welded a bung in the lower oil pan at the highest point I could get it.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20131229_120722_RichtoneHDR_zps3b3215a0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20131229_120722_RichtoneHDR_zps3b3215a0.jpg.html)
After the exhuast work was fabbed I let it run for about 15 minutes to verify the turbo and exhuast were to my liking. I honestly was very worried about using the "cherry bombs" but I was pleased with the sound that made its way out of the tailpipe.
Then I pulled it all all right back off to start the build!
The turbo is a Garrett .63/.63 using a tial F38 wastegate. The downpipe has two bungs, one for afr and the other for o2 and a flexpipe.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20131229_144032_RichtoneHDR_zps3678a70f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20131229_144032_RichtoneHDR_zps3678a70f.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20131229_145039_RichtoneHDR_zpsbb0052a5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20131229_145039_RichtoneHDR_zpsbb0052a5.jpg.html)
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It was tough to do it, its been such a reliable strong engine even with 199k miles... But, I pulled the engine today. Going to start playing around with options on the engine build.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140101_185722_RichtoneHDR_zps29f889e5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140101_185722_RichtoneHDR_zps29f889e5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140101_185744_RichtoneHDR_zpsf41ed322.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140101_185744_RichtoneHDR_zpsf41ed322.jpg.html)
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Alright so here are my engine ideas...
1:
m44 crankshaft, s52 pistons, M50B25 Rods
With this combo I will need to shave my s52 pistons about 3 or 4mm to get compression around 8.5:1 (depending on gasket size). s52 pistons have a roughly 4mm dish to them so shaving them 4mm will essential make them flat topped. 3mm shave will put me about 2.25mm below deck and 4mm 3.25mm below deck.
2: WON'T work. I CC'd dish of s52 piston and I recorded 15.5cc dish 6.87:1 compression
m44 crankshaft, s52 pistons, 135mm rods.
With this combo I would not need to shave the pistons, however I will be sitting around 4.25mm below deck and have to calculate in the dish of the piston. So, that limits me to a very thin gasket .06 or .07" compression will be about 6.87:1.
I have a block already bored to 86.4mm and an extra head: supertech valves springs SPR-H1000D/BM and VW 48grams p/n 050 109309 lifters. Planning on using BMW 6mm valves and guides.
Here is a picture of the block (86.4mm) fitted with m44 crank (83.5mm) (just messing around testing deck heights with my calculations) with 140mm rods and s52 piston, m42 piston, and m50b25 piston.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140101_110656_zpsb4bc0054.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140101_110656_zpsb4bc0054.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140101_110908_zps7fde0a3e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140101_110908_zps7fde0a3e.jpg.html)
And this is a comparison of a late m42 rod (140mm) and piston on left to a stock m50TUb25 rod 11241721471(140mm) fitted with s52 piston on right.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140101_114702_zps48da2e5e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140101_114702_zps48da2e5e.jpg.html)
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Are the M50 rods/pistons canos or non vanos? Just curious as they are different.
If I remember correct the M42 are on the left and on the right are Vanos M50 assembly. Its been a while since I looked at M42 pistons I cant remember what they look like! Cant remember if they are the newer skirted type perpendicular to the wrist pin, or the old full skirt style all around.
I like your solution for the turbo mani. Looks quite good actually!
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Based on the picture you have up, the M42 fully skirted piston is on left, attached to an M50 rod possibly?. The piston on the right is the later slipper-skirt style, assuming it is for an M50, it looks similar in style to the S50 and S52 pistons I've had in my hands lately. I'd swear that that rod on the right is an early M42. 12-point bolts and all. Is it possible you mixed them up? the rod on the left is a spitting-image of the M44 and 135mm S52 rods that I have.
Got a cheap set of 135mm rods for sale if you like. I'm going high-compression so they wont work for me.
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As you are looking at the picture the rod/piston combo on the left is in fact from a 93 m42, i pulled them myself. The rod/piston combo on the right is from iirc a m50TUB25 VANOS engine with an s52 piston attached to it. I will get the part numbers off the rods and post them on here tonight just to verify.
I am still trying to weigh the benefit if any of having a higher rod to stroke ratio of the 140mm rod. Not sure if it will be that big of a deal or not. 140mm rod with m44 crank rod/stroke ratio is 1.67:1 vs 1.617 of 135mm crank. Also, trying to determine if shaving the s52 4mm will shorten its life in a turbo engine? Shaving 4mm puts the top ring 4mm closer to combustion so worried a bit on heat issues long term?
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It appears that you have a later M42 with the "M44" style rods. Realoem definitely has different part numbers for the M44 and the M50. Whats interesting is that they sub to a 'cracked' style rod. My M44 and S52 rods are not cracked, definitely machined. Just curious what type is that M50 rod, cracked or machined?
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Now you have me curious. I am going to get the part numbers off the rods right when I get home tonight. I am unsure what the "cracked" term refers to?
I am going to start disassembling my 91 m42 tonight. Not sure how far I will get but hopefully I will get down to the rods on it. I have never personally touched an early model m42 rod. It will be interesting to see what it looks like compared to the m50tub25 rod.
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On a street motor 135mm vs 140mm rods wont make a huge difference. Longer is better, but if you are trying to use OE pistons, just use the rods that are the best match.
Shaving the piston crowns that much could definitely cause issues. The piston crowns on turbo motors are usually thicker than atmospheric engines due to the higher temperatures and combustion pressures.
Really, custom pistons are worth the cost for this. You get the exact CR you want, the ring land spacing you want, crown thickness you want, ect! Small price for many benefits!
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I have the s52 pistons laying around that is basically why I am planning on using them. The reason I wasn't going to go custom pistons is because I see s52 turbo engines with stock pistons making a lot more HP and heat than that I anticipate on making. Maybe my assumption is not accurate?
So, would you say that going with 135mm rods and not shaving the pistons at all would be the way to go? That is the direction I am leaning.
212-(83.5/2)-31-135=4.25mm below deck.
Now with that info with 86.4mm bore assuming 3cc dish on piston (if anyone knows actual s52 dish volume please let me know) and size .06" gasket I compute ~8:1 compression
This would save me time and money milling down the piston as well.
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Now you have me curious. I am going to get the part numbers off the rods right when I get home tonight. I am unsure what the "cracked" term refers to?
I am going to start disassembling my 91 m42 tonight. Not sure how far I will get but hopefully I will get down to the rods on it. I have never personally touched an early model m42 rod. It will be interesting to see what it looks like compared to the m50tub25 rod.
I'm basing 'cracked' off of what realoem says about the new part number for the rods so I don't really know exactly what they mean. In Mercedes-Benz land, a cracked (rod is forged as a complete unit then cracked in half so that when you bolt it together, the cracked surface mates up with the other half perfectly. Obviously the big end is still machined round but where the bolts go through, there will be a very rough - cracked- edge. An early M42 rod, when you get it in your hands, is approx. 100g heavier and much larger than the later ones. that's why I assumed that it was the one on the right. Keep us posted.
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Will do. Thanks for the info.
Now you have me curious. I am going to get the part numbers off the rods right when I get home tonight. I am unsure what the "cracked" term refers to?
I am going to start disassembling my 91 m42 tonight. Not sure how far I will get but hopefully I will get down to the rods on it. I have never personally touched an early model m42 rod. It will be interesting to see what it looks like compared to the m50tub25 rod.
I'm basing 'cracked' off of what realoem says about the new part number for the rods so I don't really know exactly what they mean. In Mercedes-Benz land, a cracked (rod is forged as a complete unit then cracked in half so that when you bolt it together, the cracked surface mates up with the other half perfectly. Obviously the big end is still machined round but where the bolts go through, there will be a very rough - cracked- edge. An early M42 rod, when you get it in your hands, is approx. 100g heavier and much larger than the later ones. that's why I assumed that it was the one on the right. Keep us posted.
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I can send you 1 135mm rod for mocking up if you like. I might need it back as the set is for sale.
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I can send you 1 135mm rod for mocking up if you like. I might need it back as the set is for sale.
I might take you up on that. Actually pm me a price for four of the rods and I may consider it.
Pulled the part number off the m42 rod, I was told the engine was from a 93 car. However, when I ran the part number 1739732 it is showing used on 95-99 m42/m44.
The m50 rod has random numbers that I have not been able to cross reference yet. 473N 473N 23 24 and 380376 stamped on the side
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I did somewhat of a long search trying to find out the volume of a stock s52 dish. Couldn't find the answer I was looking for so I cc'd the piston. My result was ~15.5cc. Close enough to tell me that I will not be able to use the m44, s52, and 135mm rods. Compression will be around 6.87:1.
So, back to build option 1 for me. Ran the numbers in excel real quick. I am leaning on shaving 2mm (highlighted in red) with a .098 gasket ~8.6:1 compression
Block height Stroke/2 KH Rod Length Deck Height piston shave
212 41.75 31 140 -0.75 0
212 41.75 30 140 0.25 1
212 41.75 29 140 1.25 2
212 41.75 28 140 2.25 3
212 41.75 27 140 3.25 4
Pie radius r^2 Height Volume cc KH Deck Height
3.14 35.1825 1237.8083 4 15.546 31 -0.75
3.14 35.1825 1237.8083 3 11.660 30 0.25
3.14 35.1825 1237.8083 2 7.773 29 1.25
3.14 35.1825 1237.8083 1 3.886 28 2.25
3.14 35.1825 1237.8083 0 0 27 3.25
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Bottom end:
Bored block 86.4mm
m44 cranshaft 83.5mm
s52 pistons 86.365
m42 rods 140mm
Going to order coated rod and main bearings and arp 2000 fasteners tonight.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1378_zpsad097b2b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1378_zpsad097b2b.jpg.html)
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just a gut feeling here so it may be nothing. You look to be using the heavy early M42 rods. I had one shop refuse to balance anything that isn't stock since it may require adding weight to the crank - expensive but doable I suppose. Again I am no expert. Since the M44 crank is not fully counter balanced it might be more succecptable (sp) to significantly heavier rods. Is there any reason you are not using the lighter M44 rod that was on the left in your picture?
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You are correct those are the stock early model rods I just got done pulling from my 91 m42 engine. I decided to use them as they are beefy and should hold up well for forced induction. I weighed each rod I was anticipating on using: (the weights are with bearings)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140105_111540_RichtoneHDR_zps56c9e6a2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140105_111540_RichtoneHDR_zps56c9e6a2.jpg.html)
I was shocked to find that the m50TUB25 and the early model m42 rods are almost identical. The only difference I could find was there was an N marking next to the 473 on the m50tub25. Also, I found that the m50tub25 rod takes 53mm bolts and the m42 rod 47mm. So, afaik those are the only differences.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140105_111838_RichtoneHDR_zps5f27214f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140105_111838_RichtoneHDR_zps5f27214f.jpg.html)
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So cool to have couple of engines being built right now. Keep the pics coming. Lookin' good so far.
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So cool to have couple of engines being built right now. Keep the pics coming. Lookin' good so far.
Yes it is, one NA and one Turbo. Pretty cool
Just got off the phone with Mike from VAC motorsports a little bit ago. They are custom making me a .098 MLS gasket for 86.5mm bore! Awesome! Got a bunch of other good items from them as well.
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Ok, so waiting for parts to come in at this point.
But sitting here thinking about the m44 crankshaft and the attached impulse sending wheel. It appears that the sending wheel weighs ~345g. If I remove it I am assuming it will throw the crank out of balance. So, I would need to have material removed somewhere else on the crank to get it back in balance..potentially saving 690g.
What do you all think? Good, bad, not worth the time?
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If you remove the impulse wheel, you definitely need to have the crank rebalanced. I think its best to talk to your local machine shop and see how much such a job would cost. Thats probably going to highlight quickly if its worthwhile or not :)
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Good build thread so far, thanks for posting so many pictures of M42 guts!
Like wazzu said, talk to a shop before modding the crank at all. Maybe you could work in some knife-edging with the rebalancing job?
Are you using the M42 timing case? If so, I highly recommend swapping in a late-model M42 timing case (09/1993+) since that replaced the stupid idler sprocket with a guide rail, eliminating some major reliability issues.
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Thanks for the tips guys. Will converse with the machine ship on the crank.
I just happen to have a torn down 95 m42 as well.. 8) Ok so the the deflection guide is better than the deflection wheel? Any other parts I should rob from the 95 m42?
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It sounds like you already went with the 6mm valve stems, so you are good there. The idler sprocket really is an insidious time bomb at this point. Get rid of it!
Also, one thing to think about is using an M44 timing case. It has larger (thicker) oil pump rotors and flows more oil, which could be a big plus on a turbo setup. You would need to make or buy a crank position sensor holder though since the M44 case doesn't have it cast in. Metric Mechanic can probably sell you one. Anyway, this is probably totally unnecessary so don't worry too much about it.
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Yeah, 6mm valves are on the way. Actually, I decided not to use the high mileage bmw valves. I broke down and purchased supertech nitride coated intake and inconel exhaust valves to match the supertech valve springs. The valvetrain is looking good, I just need to find out how high I can rev the VW 48 gram hydraulic buckets. I used to know, thought I had it written down somewhere.
Ok, I will make sure I get the deflection guide on there! Thanks for the tip on this.
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Ok, guys. Trying to find out the specs on stock cams.
This is what I found from some hours on google, not sure on validity of this data maybe someone can chime in here.
1991 m42: Duration 252/252 lift 10.2/10.2
1995 m42: Duration 242/242 lift 9.2/9.2
Anyway, I know about zero about camshaft duration and lift. I do know that I would prefer low end power and quicker turbo spool up. So, I am thinking a lower duration would work better for my goals? So, if the 1995 cam is truly 242/242 this would put more of the power I am looking for in the lower rpm? Please someone help me out here.
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there is information about m42 camshaft http://www.catcams.com/products/camshafts/datasheet.aspx?ENGINE_id=105&CAMSETUP_id=230
I have never heard that early m42 and late m42 camshaft are different. In any case stock camshafts are good for goal.
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I have never seen any real evidence the later M42 cams are a smaller duration. I suppose its possible though as the DSIA manifold wouldnt command as much from the cams.
Still, stock cams are really mild and they will work fine if you want to use them. To get a little more low end grunt at expense of top end you can always advance the intake cam a few degrees. Make sure to measure valve clearance if you do this though!!!
Another option is a set of VAC/Catcams turbo cams. These will be the most optimal.
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Yeah, I can't seem to find any definitive answer on the cams. There is a guy claiming that the Jan 2005 issue of roundel states that the 95 cam is 242/242. Metric Mechanic mentions in their pdf they use the stock "228" cam on their fi 1.9 m42. Lots of varying information out there.
Are regrinds still an issue at Delta regrind?
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I did a rough measurement of the difference between the lobe and base and got around 9.3mm on my late cams. curious to see how they compare to "early" cams
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Finally got around to this:
Measured my 95 m42 cams and my 91 cams both came out with 38.4mm and 47.7mm. With a difference of 9.3mm. So lift is the same. Now as far as duration?
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Still waiting on parts to come in for the m42. I didn't get much done this weekend. Decided to completely tear down the car after finding a lot more rust and decay that I remembered. This project is going to take a lot longer than I thought now. Found a surprise when I pulled the diff:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140118_130743_RichtoneHDR1_zpsbe37d406.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140118_130743_RichtoneHDR1_zpsbe37d406.jpg.html)
I knew it had been "clunking" quite a bit more than usual right before I retired it last spring.
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Does anyone know where to get a m47 crank? I contacted metric mechanic and I was told that it would be $1,850 for a crank from them and the "we aren't making any money at that price, we offer this service as a courtesy to people who buy our engines." That just seems a bit off the mark. But, I really don't know what they cost from the dealer so I haven't got a clue.
All I know is I probably won't be shelling out that much for a m47 crank! I just keep reading all the posts about m44 crank not being strong enough due to it being cast. So, needless to say its starting to make me question whether its internet here say or if this crank won't stand up to 250-300whp and the torque associated.
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The cranks from BMW will easily be in that price range. Your other option is to have someone in Europe send you a crank for less.
Personally I believe the M44 crank is plenty strong. I have never seen one break. Only issue I have ever seen is the timing wheel on the rear counterweight breaking apart. Cast vs forged is not as big of a deal as people make it out to be. There are many different ways to cast something and the modern methods are quite good.
If I was building another motor I would use the M44 crank because Im too cheap to buy a M47 unit :)
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Pelican Parts can order them for ~$1,180. I got mine from the dealer for $900 (parts guys hooked me up). You'll also have a core charge ~$100 as M42 crank won't suffice plus at least $50 shipping from Germany plus whatever else it takes to get it to you. I paid about $20 to have my snout turned down. I couldn't find anyone local to cut the keyway as the size is not common and the crank is nitrided. I ended up shipping it to Metric Mechanic and they charged me around $200 bucks plus I spent about $50 round trip shipping. Total I have $900+$100+$50+$30+$200+50 = $1,330 into it.
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The cranks from BMW will easily be in that price range. Your other option is to have someone in Europe send you a crank for less.
Personally I believe the M44 crank is plenty strong. I have never seen one break. Only issue I have ever seen is the timing wheel on the rear counterweight breaking apart. Cast vs forged is not as big of a deal as people make it out to be. There are many different ways to cast something and the modern methods are quite good.
If I was building another motor I would use the M44 crank because Im too cheap to buy a M47 unit :)
Ok, thanks for the words of reassurance. I will stay the course.
I just need to get these parts in so I stop questioning my build!
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Pelican Parts can order them for ~$1,180. I got mine from the dealer for $900 (parts guys hooked me up). You'll also have a core charge ~$100 as M42 crank won't suffice plus at least $50 shipping from Germany plus whatever else it takes to get it to you. I paid about $20 to have my snout turned down. I couldn't find anyone local to cut the keyway as the size is not common and the crank is nitrided. I ended up shipping it to Metric Mechanic and they charged me around $200 bucks plus I spent about $50 round trip shipping. Total I have $900+$100+$50+$30+$200+50 = $1,330 into it.
Thats what I don't get. It can be done for $1,330 by someone building 1 engine but a shop like MM that builds these for a living can't make any money at $1,800?
Hi there Jonathan,
We buy a new crank from BMW - $1375 - pay to ship it here.
Nest we pay to ship it to a crank grinder - pay therm, pay to ship it back.
Then there are some modifications we do ourselves.
The $1800 does sound like a lot but actually it basically covers our cost.
This crank we priced close to cost as a courtesy to folks who want one in one of our engines.
Just got all this info from out engine builder - no room for a discount.
Sincerely, Mary
Thats the email I received from MM.
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I suppose once you factor in R&D cost, cost of the cutter, other assorted overhead, labor etc $1,800 may not be that far off from break even. I don't think they're jerking you around.
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I agree I don't think they are jerking me around either. Just saying it would be nice for them to streamline their process somehow and make a couple bucks for themself as well as pass on a lower priced product. But, I digress. I am not in the market at that price.
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I don't recall how much exactly MM said the M47 crank was, but it took a couple of months to get it from Germany since they were in high demand last year. I think that it was in the neighborhood of $1750 for the crank + shipping + machine work in mid-2012. We all know about how the M47 crank needs to have the snout turned down and a second keyway added. Not sure why they send it to a grinding service...maybe they have to grind the counterweights a little and rebalance it to clear piston skirts (depending on the rod/piston combo)? I am pretty sure that it gets nitrided after the mods are done to it.
Anyway, if you can get one from Pelican for $1200 go for it. Machine labor at a precision shop will probably be $100-250, and you may want to consider nitriding the thing. I'd call Pelican before ordering to make sure that they can actually get it though. I remembered M47 cranks being ~$1200 like 7 years ago, and when I asked MM about that when they built my engine last year they said that the price on the part (new/unused) had gone up considerably since 2007.
MM does charge a premium, but they know their stuff. I must have spent 20 hours on the phone with them during my build and when valve springs were breaking, and half of that was just talking cars and stuff. They lost $1500 or so in shipping to 3-day ship the damaged engine across the country two ways + paid the shipping cost on my M42 long block core when I had to send the new head back, and they ate the cost of all repairs. The issues weren't their fault and weren't technically covered by their stated warranty, but they took care of it all. At the end of it all I still got my full core refund too. Sorry if this reads as a shameless plug for MM, but they are totally reputable.
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I dont think there is any streamlining to be done on the process when orders are at best 1 a year :) M42 is not a high demand engine and even then no manufacturer is going to make the part until its ordered. Essentially every part is a one off prototype and it just does not make sense to do it any other way.
I wish it was cheaper too, but unfortunately its just not.
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Well, I guess I don't digress, I see at least one easy streamline. :P If what Mary says is true: They should have the crank shipped directly to the "grinder." That would save them at least one shipping fee. But, like you said the quantity demanded to streamline isn't there so why bother.
Ok, so back on topic. Got all my head parts in! 8) Pictures to come tonight!
Before I drop this off at the machine shop. What do you guys think of a slight diy port? Any advice? I have all sorts of carbide tipped die grinder bits so no issues with tools. Just not sure on how much I should take off and where to take it. Also, should I do just the intake or exhaust too? Or since its going to be a high psi F/I motor is it really worth it?
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At most I would port-match the intake manifolds to one another, and the lower manifold to the head, but only grinding the manifold where it overlaps. Even on my built-up M42 from MM, they didn't port the head aside from a multi-angle job on the valve seat. Now, their big thing was having balanced power for their NA engine. Since you are going FI, you can probably get away with opening things up a bit. Still, I am sure you are well aware that you need to tread lightly when porting a head.
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Chances are really good you will screw up DIY porting more than helping. The BMW heads are usually pretty good from the factory!
If you want to do something, blending the pressed in valve seat to the head casting is where most of the gains will come from in a majority of port jobs. You will see there is a slight lip in that area, so smoothing that out is helpful :)
Blending the manifold to the head port would be something you can do as well.
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Yeah, I decided not to touch it. I talked to the head builder at the machine shop today and he said he would take a look at it and do a good valve job on it too.
So here are the parts all ready to go:
Supertech Valve springs
Supertech Titanium valve retainers and seats
Supertech 6mm Valves
6mm oem valve guides
Supertech 6mm seals
VW INA hydraulic lifters
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140121_194238_RichtoneHDR1_zps89272005.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140121_194238_RichtoneHDR1_zps89272005.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140121_195310_RichtoneHDR1_zpse53d9896.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140121_195310_RichtoneHDR1_zpse53d9896.jpg.html)
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Started tearing out the rest of the underside tonight.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140123_183717_RichtoneHDR_zpsiqglbmvk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140123_183717_RichtoneHDR_zpsiqglbmvk.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140123_183750_RichtoneHDR_zpspdrholtl.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140123_183750_RichtoneHDR_zpspdrholtl.jpg.html)
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If you decide to blend the manifold, I very very highly recommend the honeycomb shaped tool in post number 5 of this thread- last picture, all the way on the left. I have ruined a few ports in my day until a pro told me that I absolutely must buy this one tool. It never digs into the sides since its always on the arc of the bit and it will make you feel like a pro. You could very easily not sand after using this tool but you really should do some minimal finishing. I think the one I have is even slightly less aggressive also.
Here's the thread:
http://sr20nation.com/ga16forum/showthread.php?1014-Cylinder-Head-Porting
similar to this one but longer is easier to use:
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/ac6312002.html
and nice to finish off with these:
http://www.cylinderheadsupply.com/2661.html
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On a street motor 135mm vs 140mm rods wont make a huge difference. Longer is better, but if you are trying to use OE pistons, just use the rods that are the best match.
Shaving the piston crowns that much could definitely cause issues. The piston crowns on turbo motors are usually thicker than atmospheric engines due to the higher temperatures and combustion pressures.
Really, custom pistons are worth the cost for this. You get the exact CR you want, the ring land spacing you want, crown thickness you want, ect! Small price for many benefits!
You talked me into it. I have decided to ditch the s52 pistons and go the custom route. Now, I just need to dial in what CR to order pistons.. somewhere between 8.3 to 8.9 is what I am leaning towards. 8.9:1 is what I would like to run just concerned about detonation at the higher CR. Any thoughts guys?
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Why you want so low compression ratio? All my friends which are building dozen turbo engines per year are not going lower than 10:1 these days. Check that compression ratio standart cars have these days.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=sptsXGSRkDY
He runs on ron 98 fuel also but with not so agressive map and lower boost.
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8.9:1 is where I would shoot for in that range. As mentioned, no real need to go lower than that.
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Interesting to know. I always thought it was best to stay in the 8's when in high boost. Planning on running 93 octane, and 20-25psi (now that I am going forged pistons). I want to be somewhat conservative so I wouldn't feel comfortable running 10:1. So, maybe go 9.5:1?
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Lots of people go with low compression ratio because there is no good tuner available and they afraid of their inability to make proper map. But in this case you will loose some spool up time, power, thermal efficiency.
In case you can get fuel with ethanol (E85) you can go even with higher compression ration.
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Lots of people go with low compression ratio because there is no good tuner available and they afraid of their inability to make proper map. But in this case you will loose some spool up time, power, thermal efficiency.
In case you can get fuel with ethanol (E85) you can go even with higher compression ration.
e85 is not common in my general area. But, it is very common about a 40min drive from me in each direction. Honestly, I never thought about going with e85 I may have to check into that. But, not sure if that is something I want to limit my car to.
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Todays progress:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140125_165307_RichtoneHDR_zpsvxud70jg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140125_165307_RichtoneHDR_zpsvxud70jg.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140125_165335_RichtoneHDR_zpsdyz5ykfi.jpg)[
/URL]
Had to stop somewhat early, interior work kills my back! Whiskey and Ibuprofen to make the pain go away. (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140125_165335_RichtoneHDR_zpsdyz5ykfi.jpg.html)
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Looks like the inside of my car not too long ago! It was a relief when it all went back together.
Id stick with 9:1 compression if you want to stay on pump gas just to be safe.
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Yeah, its a mess right now! Today I am going to sort the wires. I dumped that huge HVAC unit and associated pieces, speakers, radio, ABS, SRS, and any other meaningless pieces. So, that should make putting things back together a bit easier.
I need to find new carpet as mine is TRASH!
Also, it appears my heater core was leaking into the drivers side floor pan as the carpet was a bit wet by the pedals. The car has been in storage for about 5 or 6 months so no rain water... Oh, and no I wasn't going to smell it to find out if it was radiator fluid 23 years of nastiness on that carpet.
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Funny, I did the same thing. I put the HVAC back in though, but removed the heater core so its just a fan now. My heater core was also leaking from the valve into the drivers floor :(
Its amazing how much room there is without all the extra modules. I removed all the excess wiring too!
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Its hard to believe that there are this many wires in a car that's this old. There a about 4 dozen wires going into my door and all I have is window go up and window go down and power mirror. :P I took all the tape off the wires while the loom was still in the car and chased wires for hours cutting out "unnecessary" pieces. Ok, jokes aside. I have decided the only amenity I am keeping are the power windows! 8) I can't even begin to imagine what it would look like doing this to a fully loaded vehicle these days.
No progress today as its literally 0 degrees outside and there is apparently a shortage in propane. We are being charged between 3.5 and 4.5$ a gallon for propane right now, if you can even get it... so going to "try" to limit my shop time this week.
But, I did order pistons!! Wiseco 86.5mm 9:1!
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Pistons came in today!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1399_zps96f8b668.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1399_zps96f8b668.jpg.html)
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More parts came in!
ARP Rod bolts
ARP Main Bolts
ARP Head Bolts
Coated main bearings
Coated rod bearings
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140130_182116_RichtoneHDR_zpsqmubmo5x.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140130_182116_RichtoneHDR_zpsqmubmo5x.jpg.html)
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Dropped all the engine parts off to the machine shop last night. Decided to let them do the build as I will be tied up with the chasis and... I just want it done by a pro.. I did a slight change and went back to the stock forged crank for piece of mind. This is the "final" setup that will be built (pending machine shop analysis of said parts):
Bottom End:
86.5mm Wiseco
Stock forged 81mm crank
Stock forged early model m42 140mm rods
ARP 2000 Main bolts
ARP 2000 Rod bolts
VAC coated Main Bearings
VAC coated Rod Bearings
Head:
Supertech dual valve springs, seats, and retainers SPR-H1000D/BM, SEAT-BM50, RET-K20a2/t2
Supertech 6mm black nitride coated Intake valves BMIVN-1030S
Supertech 6mm Inconel exhaust valves BMEVI-1030S
Supertech Keepers KPR-6S-7
BMW oem 6mm valve guides
VW 48gram Lifters p/n 050 109309
Cometic MLS 86.5mm .098" gasket
ARP 2000 Head studs
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Here is how I started todays work:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1407_zpse37f9e76.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1407_zpse37f9e76.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1406_zps5a39b8bd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1406_zps5a39b8bd.jpg.html)
This was a HUGE pita to get this far to be able to start pulling all of these wires through.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1410_zpsb6b54962.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1410_zpsb6b54962.jpg.html)
TRASH all of this is getting JUNKED. Basically these are luxury items. The only luxury item I am keeping are power windows. I couldn't begin to tell you how long it took to chase all of these wires down from start to end to verify what they were...
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1417_zps12ec251a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1417_zps12ec251a.jpg.html)
This is the final slim down wirings loom. Will get it cleaned up and rewrapped one of these days.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1418_zps0fc58ecc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1418_zps0fc58ecc.jpg.html)
Engine bay wire free!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1422_zpsf818ef27.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1422_zpsf818ef27.jpg.html)
You can see the rust issues I will be dealing with on the floorboards and the fuel tank vent hose cover rust issues:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1426_zps3fa80321.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1426_zps3fa80321.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1427_zps3f1ce301.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1427_zps3f1ce301.jpg.html)
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No plans for roll cage?
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Dropped all the engine parts off to the machine shop last night. Decided to let them do the build as I will be tied up with the chasis and... I just want it done by a pro.. I did a slight change and went back to the stock forged crank for piece of mind. This is the "final" setup that will be built (pending machine shop analysis of said parts):
Bottom End:
86.5mm Wiseco
Stock forged 81mm crank
Stock forged early model m42 140mm rods
ARP 2000 Main bolts
ARP 2000 Rod bolts
VAC coated Main Bearings
VAC coated Rod Bearings
Head:
Supertech dual valve springs, seats, and retainers
Supertech 6mm black nitride coated Intake valves
Supertech 6mm Inconel exhaust valves
BMW oem 6mm valve guides
VW 48gram Lifters p/n 050 109309
Cometic MLS 86.5mm .098" gasket
ARP 2000 Head studs
All the things I want for my engine but don't have the budget for. Nice build!
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Do you have part/model numbers for the Supertech valve train? I've checked their stock lists and couldn't find anything that was compatible with the M42 engine.
Cheers
Rob
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No plans for roll cage?
No plans at this time for a roll cage.
All the things I want for my engine but don't have the budget for. Nice build!
Thanks man!
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Do you have part/model numbers for the Supertech valve train? I've checked their stock lists and couldn't find anything that was compatible with the M42 engine.
Cheers
Rob
Rob, I updated my list with part numbers. Here is a link to supertech website http://www.supertechperformance.com/catalog?mk=1&ca=188&en=19
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Small updated as I haven't been working on the car much due to the arctic freeze sweeping through the Midwest.
Decided it would be easier to clean up the bottom of the car with a rotisserie. So, I fabbed up this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1433_zpsb5efa520.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1433_zpsb5efa520.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1434_zpsbf6d1fe7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1434_zpsbf6d1fe7.jpg.html)
Its not pretty but it should do the job.
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clean, fab, mockup, then tear it down then paint ... it looks like
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With poor mapping you get detonation even with low compression ratio. It depends what fuel you will use and who will do mapping for you.
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Removed the inner goo:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140215_143433_zps1x35yfq6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140215_143433_zps1x35yfq6.jpg.html)
Ok, if anyone attempts this in the future I found an easy way to do this. Unfortunately I was about 90% done when this happened. I was using a 400watt lamp to light up the area I was working in then took a small break and left the lamp on which heated up the area enough to "melt" the glue which in turn....peeled right off.
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You can also use dry ice. Leave it on the LASD (liquid applied sound deadning) and let it freeze. It comes off nicely after that in big chunks!
I removed mine bit by bit with a chisel and a wire wheel for cleanup.
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got a call from my engine builder today...says the 81mm stock crank is "junk" that the main journal is way out of tolerance.. So, by default I will be using the 83.5mm crank!
So, with that being said my compression shoots up to 10.4:1! I have two clear choices go e85 or shave piston 1mm to get 9.5:1.
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Do you mean the thrust journal on the crank?
You can almost count on the thrust face being destroyed nearly 100% of the time with these engines.
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Do you mean the thrust journal on the crank?
You can almost count on the thrust face being destroyed nearly 100% of the time with these engines.
Yep, I stopped by today to check it out. It was definitely shot there was a huge indentation.
Dropped off the 83.5mm crank, he is going to spin the crank and see about removing the impulse sending wheel. We talked a bit about shaving the wiseco's 1mm. He is going to work on it and get back to me on his recommendation. Also, while I was there I was quoted my bill $1,500.. Little bit higher than I was expecting but not by enough to warrant not having them build it. This includes: cleaning the block/head paint, milling head/block, boring out the block, balancing the entire rotating assembly, 5 angle valve job, and assembly among other things.
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Picked up a zf 310 today! Was really hoping on finding a zf 320 but all I could find were ones with high miles. I found this 310 with only 62k miles with a bunch of updates I couldn't pass up paid a bit of a premium but I think it will be worth it:
BMW Clutch Release Bearing Guide Tube
BMW Manual Trans Input Shaft Seal
BMW Manual Trans Output Shaft Seal
Red Line D4 ATF
BMW Transmission Detent Repair Kit (ZF S5D320Z)
BMW Clutch Pivot Fork
BMW Clutch Release Arm Spring
BMW Clutch Release Throw Out Bearing
RallyRoad Stainless Clutch Pivot Pin
Also picked up an e36 driveshaft for parts
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMAG12831_zps247020fe.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMAG12831_zps247020fe.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140301_195125_zps9uffgv9v.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140301_195125_zps9uffgv9v.jpg.html)
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Small updates. Stopped by the machine shop today to check on progress:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140303_163509_RichtoneHDR_zps7r6ppqmp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140303_163509_RichtoneHDR_zps7r6ppqmp.jpg.html)
Block bored honed and cleaned. Will be test assembled tomorrow to check clearance. So, tonight I was digging around my shop organizing parts and came across an 81mm crank. Forgot I had it! I can't believe I forgot I had this crank I pulled it from a 95 engine that had hydro locked. The crank blew a rod/piston right out of the side of the block. Would you guys think it would be safe/worth using it knowing that it threw a rod out of the side of the block?
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If the bearing surfaces are good I dont see a lot that could go wrong with it. Have the machine shop spin it to make sure its balanced and straight.
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Talked to the engine builder today. He had already started test assembly with the 83.5mm crank. He spun up the 83.5mm crank with and without the impulse sending wheel and determined that it would be best to leave it on as he would have to alter the crank too much for his comfort level to get it rebalanced. He then added he put the impulse wheel back on and locked it in good with locktite.
I mentioned that I had come across another 81mm crank and he told me in his opinion I should stick to the stroker crank even if it is cast. So, I will be sticking with the 83.5mm crank. He also measured the crown thickness of the wisecos and came up with .285" wiseco spec for turbo applications is between .220 and .250 so he said I will perfectly fine hacking off 1mm (.0394") as I would be at .2456" crown thickness which is at the top of wiseco's threshold.
So, that's basically the final bottom end right there. Calculating out to be right about 9.5:1 compression and 1,963cc displacement.
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Started removing the undercoating using a 40grit 3m flap wheel on a 4.5 grinder. It was working well but after grinding this small area the shop was filled with dust so much as I couldn't see anymore. So, will have to wait on this until the weather breaks and I can move this outside. Cut he spare tire well out with a plasma cutter as I will be installing a RCI 12 gallon Fuel cell back there.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140303_180142_RichtoneHDR_zpssemqxkur.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140303_180142_RichtoneHDR_zpssemqxkur.jpg.html)
Also, received a shipment today. Z3 2.8 turn steering rack! Just needs cleaned up a bit but this should be fun!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140305_172802_zpsp8p127ba.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140305_172802_zpsp8p127ba.jpg.html)
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If I ever build another e30, the rotisserie is the first place it's going. You should beef up the jack points behind the front wheels and flatten the floor pan, mechanics can't resist using those regardless how flimsy they are.
What are you going to do with the spare tire area?
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What are you going to do with the spare tire area?
I will be installing a fuel cell back there this one:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/rci-2121a_yj_xl_zpsae38554e.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/rci-2121a_yj_xl_zpsae38554e.jpg.html)
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Oh, I was thinking you were going to mount the turbo and intercooler back there or possibly the radiator?
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Tore down the sub frame and suspension parts. Much bigger task and time consumer than I anticipated. The rotors were frozen, hubs were frozen, and bearings were broken. I would say this overhaul was LONG overdue. After hours with pullers and pressing I managed to break it all down. I purchased reinforcement pieces from Garagistic. I was going to cut my own but they have some nice pieces at great prices so I purchased a kit from them.
I Purchased their front sub frame reinforcement and sway bar reinforcement and made my own diff reinforcement. I would encourage anyone who has the opportunity to at least reinforce there front sub motor mount area.. Mine was bent way out of shape. The only reason I noticed is when I went to weld in the reinforcement pieces and they wouldn't fit. At first I thought I received bad pieces however I found a hairline crack on my sub frame and then realized it was bent. Several good blows later with a ball peen hammer got it back in shape. I welded the motor mount reinforcer on the top part of the subframe on purpose in case anybody is wondering. I was running the m5 motor mounts prior to tear down which position the motor a touch higher than stock so welding the reinforcer on top "should" get me back to approximately the same height with m42 poly bushings. Here they are with all the pieces welded in. Now they are off to get blasted and powder coated!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1443_zps15c41422.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1443_zps15c41422.jpg.html)
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The expansion tank hose entry into the cabin before and after:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1444_zps54bf105b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1444_zps54bf105b.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1450_zps61e4bdab.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1450_zps61e4bdab.jpg.html)
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Slowly making progress on the fuel system..doesn't look like much but stay tuned...:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140317_165209_RichtoneHDR_zpsg0eqjqa3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140317_165209_RichtoneHDR_zpsg0eqjqa3.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140320_193727_RichtoneHDR_zps4x8bqj1c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140320_193727_RichtoneHDR_zps4x8bqj1c.jpg.html)
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I want't to build my turbo m42 engine,but i have some question.Can you give me a help?
What's crankshaft you use?m44 or m42(this is my first question)
Thx
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I was hoping to get the fuel system mocked up this weekend however FedEx and Amazon failed to deliver all the parts in time. So basically all I did was weld flanges to the aluminum fuel cell for mounting. Tomorrow I plan to cut the aluminum for the other side of the fuel cell. That area will be used to mount the prefilter, pump, and post filter. Also drill and tap the mounting scews fuel cell and system mount. For the fuel filler I am hoping to fab up a filler using the stock fuel filler assembly, hence the hole cutout near the fuel cell.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1452_zps8bf08bf6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1452_zps8bf08bf6.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1454_zps63af92f8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1454_zps63af92f8.jpg.html)
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Good work and it looks like you have a spot for a new battery box.
Are you able to do away with the expansion tank and charcoal filter system? That's the only area on my car I have never tended to, I have no idea if it's actually functioning properly.
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Correct, I will be doing away with the expansion tank and the charcoal canister. The loop will be simplified here is the tentative plan:
Fuel cell pickup -8an hose
prefilter -8an hose
external inline pump -8an hose
post filter -8an hose
-8an bulkead to underbody
-8an to 1/2" adapter
1/2" aluminum fuel line to engine bay(overkill but its what I had on hand)
Convert back to -8an
Nuke fuel rail -8an inlet
Nuke fuel rail -8an outlet hose
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator inlet -8an
Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator outlet -8an
Convert back to 1/2" AL to bulkhead to reenter trunk
Bulkead -8an to fuel return on fuel cell.
-8an hose fuel VENT to bulkead exiting trunk to fuel vent on stock fuel filler
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Cut the aluminum plate which will be the mount for pump and filters. Drilled and tapped for 5mm bolts. Hopefully the rest of the fuel system parts will come in so I can finish this mockup and move on to the next area.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140323_165835_RichtoneHDR_zpsh1jzrima.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140323_165835_RichtoneHDR_zpsh1jzrima.jpg.html)
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Sweet!!
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Got a package... I thought I converted my cash to gold but all that was in the package were these connectors:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-28%2008.05.06_zpsum7xemcv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2014-03-28%2008.05.06_zpsum7xemcv.jpg.html)
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AN connectors are about as close to gold as you can get :)
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Exactly, I didn't realize what they were getting for these things until I started the order then was a bit shocked to see the total. They are mighty proud of AN connectors!
Hopefully I will have this mocked up this weekend. Thought it would be a good idea to throw a surge tank in the mix since there are no baffles in my fuel cell. So I need to fab one up. Two ideas a 4" cylinder about 8" long or a 5"x5" square tank. We shall see which direction I go Saturday morning.
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Didn't get the tank finished ran out of fittings. Somehow I only got 3 of 4 weld in bungs. Also, need more various fittings. But, here is what it looks like so far.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_161359_RichtoneHDR_zpsw2ct3p37.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140330_161359_RichtoneHDR_zpsw2ct3p37.jpg.html)
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FYI, Surge tank constructed:
11 gauge aluminum bent on a home made press brake and welded. 10 gauge top and bottom, 4 -8an weld in bungs.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140327_181655_RichtoneHDR_zpsosegshdz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140327_181655_RichtoneHDR_zpsosegshdz.jpg.html)
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Really impressive work! :D
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Man, this is LEGIT. I love the attention to detail!
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Man, this is LEGIT. I love the attention to detail!
Really impressive work! :D
Thanks guys!
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Final mockup:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1467_zps94142202.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1467_zps94142202.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1471_zps096ea902.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1471_zps096ea902.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1469_zps28a9e1e8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1469_zps28a9e1e8.jpg.html)
Stock fuel filler and location fab work. Chopped up my old 98m3 exhaust which was a perfect fit onto the stock e30 fuel filler and RCI filler neck.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1464_zpsfc927e04.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1464_zpsfc927e04.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1466_zpsc8941e4a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1466_zpsc8941e4a.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1479_zps0b268963.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1479_zps0b268963.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1474_zpsa8e22c03.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1474_zpsa8e22c03.jpg.html)
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m42 content:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140416_180006_RichtoneHDR_zpsd14z3xo4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140416_180006_RichtoneHDR_zpsd14z3xo4.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140416_193547_RichtoneHDR_zpshpcbsnhe.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140416_193547_RichtoneHDR_zpshpcbsnhe.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140416_202225_RichtoneHDR_zpspmqfaeht.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140416_202225_RichtoneHDR_zpspmqfaeht.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1491_zps2b3d0269.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1491_zps2b3d0269.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1493_zps32d741dd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1493_zps32d741dd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1497_zps935ce701.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1497_zps935ce701.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1499_zps418d3b5b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1499_zps418d3b5b.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1501_zps24dd9bd0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1501_zps24dd9bd0.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1503_zps3ac77852.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1503_zps3ac77852.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1505_zps4ebc555d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1505_zps4ebc555d.jpg.html)
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Coming along very nicely! I wish I had your fabrication ability!
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wow this is just phenomenal!! I wish I could do this to my engine.. I can do the mechanical work just not too savy with the math :( wish there was a written guide with all the specs to build an engine :( RESPECT to you sir!
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Great work!
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Coming along very nicely! I wish I had your fabrication ability!
Great work!
wow this is just phenomenal!! I wish I could do this to my engine.. I can do the mechanical work just not too savy with the math :( wish there was a written guide with all the specs to build an engine :( RESPECT to you sir!
Thanks guys. Slowly moving along hoping to have the engine built by the end of the weekend.
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Found this in the bottom of my parts washer. Anyone able to identify this? (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1511_zps55842101.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1511_zps55842101.jpg.html)
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It is washer for chain guide.
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It is washer for chain guide.
TRUE. Not required with the new nylon chain guide.
Nice work by the way, envious of the shop! Keep us posted.
Thanks,
Stan
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It is washer for chain guide.
TRUE. Not required with the new nylon chain guide.
Nice work by the way, envious of the shop! Keep us posted.
Thanks,
Stan
It is washer for chain guide.
Studied the realoem diagrams and briefly tried to match the washer up to the timing case diagrams and I am still unsure where this piece came from. I do however have the updated guide rail to install so i guess no worries.
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http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF91&mospid=47256&btnr=11_4367&hg=11&fg=25 (http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF91&mospid=47256&btnr=11_4367&hg=11&fg=25)
Part No 10.
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Water pump block off:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1519_zps23165aa4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1519_zps23165aa4.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1520_zps1c51e89d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1520_zps1c51e89d.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1524_zpsc153d509.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1524_zpsc153d509.jpg.html)
That was V2. This is the first one I made, I didn't like how the top turned out. If anyone wants it let me know pay shipping and its yours.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1525_zps1016d168.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1525_zps1016d168.jpg.html)
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Didn't end up having much time to work on the engine today. Got the New oil pump rotor installed, upated oil pressure control valve, new seals for crank.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140425_172016_zpsh2ke0paf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140425_172016_zpsh2ke0paf.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140425_175045_zps1yw2kubi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140425_175045_zps1yw2kubi.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140425_172216_zpskpv4o9yq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140425_172216_zpskpv4o9yq.jpg.html)(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140426_075714_zpsicbchxox.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140426_075714_zpsicbchxox.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140426_095940_zpsjvtnuuzx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140426_095940_zpsjvtnuuzx.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140426_111835_zpsqhutd2a7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140426_111835_zpsqhutd2a7.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140426_115034_zpsyfyljcfr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140426_115034_zpsyfyljcfr.jpg.html)
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Getting closer! Ran into a couple slowdowns so didn't make my goal of getting this thing put together today. Had to retap for an oil pan bolt. Then I spent a good 45min looking for the chain tensioner cap..I put in one of those easy to find places.. Anyway here are some pics!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_090704_zpsifimu9xf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_090704_zpsifimu9xf.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_111950_zpsjx9fnlbt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_111950_zpsjx9fnlbt.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_122234_zpsy5ux02iy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_122234_zpsy5ux02iy.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_131225_zpszoakokv0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_131225_zpszoakokv0.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_134429_zpsdt1w6okh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_134429_zpsdt1w6okh.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_150659_zps70aqehxz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_150659_zps70aqehxz.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_173852_zps6ru1ul3o.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_173852_zps6ru1ul3o.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_195552_zps0zw8i6ju.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_195552_zps0zw8i6ju.jpg.html)
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Looks great!
I hate those easy to find places that arent as easy to find as you thought it would be!!
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Looks great!
I hate those easy to find places that arent as easy to find as you thought it would be!!
Ha! Seriously. "OK, I'll just put this here, it's a pretty obvious place. I bet I'll totally forget that I put it here, but I'll only be a minute..."
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Looks great!
I hate those easy to find places that arent as easy to find as you thought it would be!!
Ha! Seriously. "OK, I'll just put this here, it's a pretty obvious place. I bet I'll totally forget that I put it here, but I'll only be a minute..."
Looks great!
I hate those easy to find places that arent as easy to find as you thought it would be!!
Exactly! Best part is I had two of them! Never did find the other one. I found it placed in a nice zip lock bag with a bit of oil with the old tensioner nicely placed behind a bunch of junk on one of my shelves. I imagine when I placed it there originally it didn't have a bunch of junk in front of it though!
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So, bounce some ideas off you guys. I am not running heat (my heater core was shot and didn't feel like paying to replace it) so I would like to delete the entire "mess under the intake." I also hate the design of the plastic pipe that feeds the mess. I have a couple directions I could go.
From this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/6_zps288756e1.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/6_zps288756e1.png.html)
This would be my goal, fab a new block off pipe out of aluminum:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/finalmod6_zps9fd5ba05.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/finalmod6_zps9fd5ba05.png.html)
Or is the overflow hose #4 in the diagram a necessity for proper flow? ..In that case I could fab a pipe to do this:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/mod6_zpsdd654fd1.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/mod6_zpsdd654fd1.png.html)
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I drilled and tapped the head to put in NPT block off caps. The rear hole does not have much material FYI! I used 3/4 NPT on that one and I believe 3/8 NPT on the center one.
I kept the plastic pipe in the block for the coolant overflow, although some day I would like to just make a replacement for the one line. I hate having the other ends capped off because Im afraid of a split in the cap. So far no issues though.
It does make the area much cleaner!!
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Made a bit more progress tonight. This is about as far as I am going to go with the engine for awhile as I will be directing more time to the withering chasis that is rusting away as I type this.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140430_182606_zpscmpyp43x.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140430_182606_zpscmpyp43x.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140430_182648_zpslagct1ze.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140430_182648_zpslagct1ze.jpg.html)
this is how it will be sitting for awhile, such a shame as I would like to fire it up!!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140430_183732_zps4uypgntr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140430_183732_zps4uypgntr.jpg.html)
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Looks fantastic though!!
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Everything looks fantastic. I hope to get back to mine soon as well.
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Back to the chasis: I spent the day cutting out rust spots and welding in new sheet metal. The area directly under the accelerator pedal was almost missing. You can see where the pedal mounts to the floor in the first pic.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140503_114306_zpsneovtymy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140503_114306_zpsneovtymy.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20140503_114746_zpsdbuejzai.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20140503_114746_zpsdbuejzai.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140503_122357_zpsobplvqji.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140503_122357_zpsobplvqji.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140503_124301_zps9ygvwlwx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140503_124301_zps9ygvwlwx.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140503_125403_zpsk0gmfuqo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140503_125403_zpsk0gmfuqo.jpg.html)
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Nice weld's! Now i'm scared to look at my chassis... Would expect this from an older bmw or even an e30 but to see this level of rust/degradation on a pretty clean e36 :-X
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The under coating is good and bad.. If water gets trapped underneath of the coating it has nowhere to go so it just sits that are rots away the metal. Some of the areas I removed undercoating from looked like brand new primer and metal...others not so much! Whenever I finish repairing the rust and fabbing new brackets etc. I will have the chasis soda blasted and painted with POR-15.
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I really like the look of the stock e30 front and rear bumper. But unfortunately I am forced to go a different route due to a birds nest that was under my battery:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140216_105051_RichtoneHDR_zpscjjh0tso.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140216_105051_RichtoneHDR_zpscjjh0tso.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140504_134140_zpsglkqx3mu.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140504_134140_zpsglkqx3mu.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140505_192706_zpsokoham1x.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140505_192706_zpsokoham1x.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140505_192600_zpsiya1xkxj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140505_192600_zpsiya1xkxj.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140505_192622_zpslyl3ihkt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140505_192622_zpslyl3ihkt.jpg.html)
It looks terrible but somehow I managed to make it look better than the birds nest battery box. It will all be hidden by an mtech II bumper so no worries.
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Small update: Made some rear sway bar reinforcement plates
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140508_185010_zps2gz9ccnz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140508_185010_zps2gz9ccnz.jpg.html)
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Back at it after a nice long summer and non existent fall. Dropped it off this evening at a sandblasting shop. They are going to clean it up with corn husks and fine grain sand. Won't start til next week so hoping to have it back for the long weekend after thanksgiving.
Here is the chasis all loaded up.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20141120_163656_zpsc16fc75a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20141120_163656_zpsc16fc75a.jpg.html)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_075346_zps1457e4bd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_075346_zps1457e4bd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_0822370_zpsb2964b44.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_0822370_zpsb2964b44.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_114641_zpsdb910076.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_114641_zpsdb910076.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_114655_zps3c7c91b7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_114655_zps3c7c91b7.jpg.html)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_123928_zps32652d49.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_123928_zps32652d49.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_170351_zps9a42c7cd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_170351_zps9a42c7cd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_170410_zpsc055bfba.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_170410_zpsc055bfba.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_170437_zps321871b1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141202_170437_zps321871b1.jpg.html)
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So envious of your clean shell!! Turned out great!
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Wow between your and Norm's builds this is great to see.
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I may have missed where you talked about the roof, but what happened to it? Did you cut out everything to go "slick"?
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Probably to weld in a cage??
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I forgot to mention the plans on the roof. The old sunroof was a total loss as well as the cause of lots of the rust issues the chasis had. So I junked it and will be riveting on a sheet of aluminum with sealant then filler to blend. This will save a massive amount of top weight too!
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Chasis, trunk and engine compartment sprayed with 2k epoxy with ceramic resin. Stuff is rock solid and super thick.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141206_090445_zpsde795126.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141206_090445_zpsde795126.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_103619_zps583a1131.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_103619_zps583a1131.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_102636_zps0fa26bf5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141207_102636_zps0fa26bf5.jpg.html)
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The body work is very impressive!
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Thanks! Not going to lie though..starting to get a bit anxious to start wrenching again. 8) Knowing my luck I will chip the coating banging tools/parts against it! Going to wait a few days for the epoxy coating to get a good cure before I start bolting the suspension back on. So, in the meantime I need to take inventory of what I have and don't have so I don't get any surprises later!
Here is a teaser of the Suspension/subframe back from Powdercoating:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20141208_174455_zps06315aa0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20141208_174455_zps06315aa0.jpg.html)
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Got a bit of work done tonight on the suspension. Poly mounts from revshift all around and front Ireland Engineering poly for the sway bar.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1745_zpse0fa49ce.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1745_zpse0fa49ce.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1751_zpse39a0df6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1751_zpse39a0df6.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1754_zpsf2a3c2e2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1754_zpsf2a3c2e2.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1752_zps862f0490.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1752_zps862f0490.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1762_zps0be4044a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1762_zps0be4044a.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1763_zps244a627b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1763_zps244a627b.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1764_zpsd99e87a6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1764_zpsd99e87a6.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1767_zpsd0b1c654.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1767_zpsd0b1c654.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1770_zps283236b5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1770_zps283236b5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1773_zpsdfe782b4.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1773_zpsdfe782b4.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1776_zps0cc09834.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1776_zps0cc09834.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1779_zps47f3b136.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1779_zps47f3b136.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1782_zps57d5614c.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1782_zps57d5614c.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1783_zps3c0b6fbf.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1783_zps3c0b6fbf.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1784_zpsc813c1ad.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1784_zpsc813c1ad.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1785_zps9063e313.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1785_zps9063e313.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1788_zps821fd73a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1788_zps821fd73a.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1789_zps1ea42eee.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1789_zps1ea42eee.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1790_zps79975ca8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1790_zps79975ca8.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1791_zps5055b280.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1791_zps5055b280.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1792_zpsa88c8243.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1792_zpsa88c8243.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1793_zpsc7b6e61b.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1793_zpsc7b6e61b.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1794_zps4f249358.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1794_zps4f249358.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1795_zps6edeaa80.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1795_zps6edeaa80.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1797_zps5ca9213d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1797_zps5ca9213d.jpg.html)
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Dang, thats clean!
The Eastwood 2k primer is supposed to be quite good too.
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subbed
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Suspension is finally on! Dang its been a long time since this car actually sat on wheels! Next on the list is clean up the brakes, prep the z3 steering rack, then choose a diff. Not 100% sure on diff ratio yet. I have 2.93 medium case and a 3.64 small case. Not sure I want to use either of them. The zf 310z I will be using behind the m42 has a 1:1 final drive. So with that in mind I may look for a 3.25 LSD.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1805_zps012c9de0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1805_zps012c9de0.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1814_zps3edcd7f3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1814_zps3edcd7f3.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1819_zps5ecf8603.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1819_zps5ecf8603.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1842_zps43ec287a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1842_zps43ec287a.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1866_zps9e6dc6e5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1866_zps9e6dc6e5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1874_zps13b55426.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1874_zps13b55426.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1879_zpsa7b37b21.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1879_zpsa7b37b21.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1880_zps1ffe3df5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1880_zps1ffe3df5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1881_zps7beee183.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1881_zps7beee183.jpg.html)
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Nice, i have heard good things about IE Polly, its supposed to be a great street/autocross set up. As for your diff a 3.25 lsd might be in your future.
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Nick what diff ratio do you have behind your zf? If I recall its pretty short like 3.73 or is it a 4.10?
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Yes, I am running a 3.73 which is really short. Its great for an atmospheric car, but it will be way too steep for a turbo car.
Here is a little chart I made to help determine what rear ratios will work best for different situations:
(http://i750.photobucket.com/albums/xx146/nhertlein/1991%20e30/GearingCalculator.jpg)
As mentioned above, a 3.25 would probably do pretty good in a turbo car.
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Nice chart. I was running my numbers based on an old diffsonline spreadsheetand your numbers are spot on with what I am getting with the spreadsheet.
I run a lot down the interstate as I live a mile off one. So, I don't want anything too steep but want to retain some good torque for strip/track. The 3.25LSD looks to be the best of both worlds. 3.46lsd is VERY tempting puts me at ~3600rpm @ 75mph.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/346_zps10634fab.png) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/346_zps10634fab.png.html)
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Well, I decided on and purchased a 3.46 LSD. Price was right so that helped make the decision easier.
Just finished a complete rebuild on 4 brakes. OEM rebuild kits and Hawk HPS pads.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1865_zps97ef2ba2.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1865_zps97ef2ba2.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150103_120557_zps21ccd729.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150103_120557_zps21ccd729.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150103_174557_zpsf7e70ed1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150103_174557_zpsf7e70ed1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150104_100621_zps5e475cca.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150104_100621_zps5e475cca.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150104_114403_zps7f935262.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150104_114403_zps7f935262.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150104_133720_zpsabdb57a6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150104_133720_zpsabdb57a6.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1896_zpsf878ed58.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1896_zpsf878ed58.jpg.html)
(http://http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1885_zpsb44516f9.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1885_zpsb44516f9.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1899_zps7cc973aa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1899_zps7cc973aa.jpg.html)
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Did you paint your rotors?
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I bought them from uuc and they came that way.
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Z3 2.8turn steering rack all cleaned up and installed. Unfortunately that's all I will be accomplishing this weekend as my day was cut short as I cracked the differential cover attempting to press out the "frozen" bushing. Any leads on a new cover would be great!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150117_122826_zpsc34a55ba.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150117_122826_zpsc34a55ba.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150117_115319_zps1df071b7.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150117_115319_zps1df071b7.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150118_093356_zps5c18ea15.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150118_093356_zps5c18ea15.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1919_zpsae09d249.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1919_zpsae09d249.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1918_zps7aef951d.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1918_zps7aef951d.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_1917_zpsb320208a.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_1917_zpsb320208a.jpg.html)
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Lost track. Is you diff a small or medium case? I have a spare small case rear cover for sale if it's correct.
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I am using the large case. Don't have one of those laying around by any chance?
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Those diff bushings are a bitch! Mine put up quite the fight, luckily I didn't break any thing though
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I am using the large case. Don't have one of those laying around by any chance?
Nope. Sorry.
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So, spent some time searching for a replacement cover and gave up. Ended up finding a finned cover and pulled the trigger so here we have my final drive! 3.46lsd:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150205_174912_zpsepkoacvv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150205_174912_zpsepkoacvv.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150205_185232_zpsgnwqsvfa.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150205_185232_zpsgnwqsvfa.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150205_185330_zpsjf3uvnqt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150205_185330_zpsjf3uvnqt.jpg.html)
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Ok, not sure why I didn't notice this sooner but... My new axles have a different variety of dust shield which is not allowing a good seat on the diff output flange. So, trying to decided if I should:
1: Torque the bolts down and see if the thin aluminum dust shield will "crush" into place.
2: Buy 2 new axle boot kits (Since the dust shield doesn't appear to be sold individually)
Original dust shield axle:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150209_163908_zpsxnwducka.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150209_163908_zpsxnwducka.jpg.html)
New axle dust shield:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150209_163849_zpsihteu8hg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150209_163849_zpsihteu8hg.jpg.html)
as you can see the only difference is the crown ledge. Diameter is identical.
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Option 1 worked like a charm. Torqued the bolts down in a criss cross pattern and crushed the aluminum shield perfectly.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150211_181643_zpsuw6rnsas.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150211_181643_zpsuw6rnsas.jpg.html)
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Nice! I love me a finned diff cover.
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Do you think your axles will be able to handle the power you'r putting down? Only reason i ask is because i have broken 2 (1 O.E, and 1 El Cheapo) and im only making around 150bhp though i was getting pretty rowdy with it (lots of corning/drifting). Right now i am on my third one and so far so good but i have been thinking about beefing them up especially after i finish my engine build and am putting down more power. What are you thoughts on this?
-Tyler
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That's a good question. I and I will certainly find out if I ever finish this build. From my knowledge the e30 28mm diameter axle shaft is a tiny bit beefier than the e36 318 26mm axle shaft. The late model e30s all have the same 28mm axle. I am not aware of too many failures with the 325 turbo guys. If I run in to any issues down the road an option would be the custom axles from the driveshaft shop.
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Hi
I thought the fined diff cover only came out on the m3? But very nice anyway.
That's a pretty high diff ratio your using?
Cheers
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The finned diff cover fits with some longer bolts. I believe they came on the Z3Ms.
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Yep, this cover was from a z3m and does require longer bolts for the added .5L capacity.
The 3.46 will be paired with the non overdrive 5th from the zf310. The diff will be on the short side but, I am looking to gain the "torque" that this ratio should offer. I have a 2.93 also so if I feel the 3.46 is too much I can switch fairly quickly.
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Haven't posted in awhile just wanted to say I'm still alive!
New firewall plate for the z3 rack:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_0037_zpsupqvxwjz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_0037_zpsupqvxwjz.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_0039_zpsth2359fi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_0039_zpsth2359fi.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/IMG_0040_zpsfmpifd7f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/IMG_0040_zpsfmpifd7f.jpg.html)
Aluminum top fabrication, fastened on with 3m panel bonding adhesive and lots of rivets. Short strand fiberglass and evercoat filler to smooth the edges:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150420_174123_zpsmh6lej7f.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150420_174123_zpsmh6lej7f.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150420_190636_zpswllxnedg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150420_190636_zpswllxnedg.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150425_132150_zps4a8f5sx3.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150425_132150_zps4a8f5sx3.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150426_113022_zpsptkgkcb5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150426_113022_zpsptkgkcb5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150509_144212_zps8xeylq9k.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150509_144212_zps8xeylq9k.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150530_173700_zpscfuv2icw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150530_173700_zpscfuv2icw.jpg.html)
More body work:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150801_092212_zpszvytczpp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150801_092212_zpszvytczpp.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150801_125532_zpswwu9smcb.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150801_125532_zpswwu9smcb.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150814_210151_zpsz1an8xvg.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150814_210151_zpsz1an8xvg.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150820_190432_zpsym7pcpkh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150820_190432_zpsym7pcpkh.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150823_093253_zps2nx6nfq5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150823_093253_zps2nx6nfq5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150823_093329_zpsf2dv1av6.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150823_093329_zpsf2dv1av6.jpg.html)
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Looking fantastic!
I found when I did the steering rack swap I had to remove a lot more firewall material than the "how to" articles showed. Looks like you found the same thing :)
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What flywheel and clutch setup did you end up using with your zf? I was planning on running the m20 flywheel and clutch setup but can't seem to source a decent one. Started drooling over the UUC kits and am tempted to pull the trigger just not sure on fitment. The site says for the m20 kit they use the m5 clutch with their light weight flywheel. I imagine I would still need the 323 throw out/release bearing.
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I used an F1 flywheel and clutch from ebay.
What transmission do you have? G240 from the E30 I suppose. In that case I would go with the M20 flywheel and clutch. M20 flywheels should be all over the place. I dont think you actually need the 323i tob either. Dont worry about a ltw M20 flywheel, I had a stock one modified for $75 at a machine shop to copy the 323i flywheel. I don't think thats even necessary either as the M20 flywheel alone is light enough.
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I have a zf310 that I will be using.
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Talked with UUC and pulled the trigger on their lightweight flywheel and m5 clutch kit. Since using the zf they suggested the e36 package with 325i slave. Should be here next week. Can't wait to get it on and put this engine back in!!
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That will be a really nice kit for you. Since you are using the E36 trans any kit for the E36 cars will work great. The UUC kit has been around a long time and has good reviews!
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Got the kit installed and transmission mated. This kit is really nice fits together with the zf310 and m42 like it was oem. The extra grabbing power of the 240mm clutch will be perfect! 8)
had to make a tool to get the crank bolt torqued to 244ft/lbs spec:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150918_194731_zpscyfvjuhu.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150918_194731_zpscyfvjuhu.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150919_123735_zps25l1avjq.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150919_123735_zps25l1avjq.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150919_132726_zps82mp2jvv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150919_132726_zps82mp2jvv.jpg.html)
New pilot bearing installed:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150925_172943_zpsu5pnd4yn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150925_172943_zpsu5pnd4yn.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150925_173729_zpsjejntebv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150925_173729_zpsjejntebv.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150925_183344_zps2n0xgqo8.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150925_183344_zps2n0xgqo8.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150926_110543_zpsa8mqtv50.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150926_110543_zpsa8mqtv50.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20150926_110629_zpsxtrwyudv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20150926_110629_zpsxtrwyudv.jpg.html)
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(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150927_164843_zps5guspcre.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150927_164843_zps5guspcre.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150927_164919_zpsytvs5net.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150927_164919_zpsytvs5net.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20150927_164941_zpswpvqfcgx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150927_164941_zpswpvqfcgx.jpg.html)
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Looking good!
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this build is a pleasure to watch.
I know that turbo, a bit old school but works great on this engine.
IIRC I had (years ago, not anymore) 7-8 psi at 2800 rpm on a m44, internal wg too. Not too bad, but I had the .48 turbine housing :)
Maybe you'll want a bigger one now that engine is fully built.
A little scared about the 86.5 bore, how much wall left between pistons? usually that bore is used on high revving N/A, but if correctly tuned and built it will not be a problem.
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Thanks. Yeah, the turbo is old school. The tubine housing and wheel have been upgraded to flow a bit more. Down the road after I get this thing dialed in I will look into getting a decent matched turbo with ball bearings etc. I'm hoping The .63 turbine housing with the 84 trim wheel will start building decent boost around that same rpm. What was your max boost and respective rpm?
Compressor:
46mm Inducer
60mm Exducer
Trim 60
Turbine:
56mm Inducer
61mm Exducer
Tim 84
To me it looks like there is enough meet between the walls to be ok.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_131225_zpszoakokv0.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140427_131225_zpszoakokv0.jpg.html)
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wow amazing build. can't wait to see the rest.
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Engine is back in its home! The shocker was the oem m42 transmission brace was a direct fit. I was certain I would have needed to fab up a special bracket. I made a new oil drain for the turbo, much better routing and location. It was a very tight fit to squeeze behind the crank sensor.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151008_175457_zpsmytqpvnv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151008_175457_zpsmytqpvnv.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151008_195247_zpsrwpqxp0x.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151008_195247_zpsrwpqxp0x.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151010_173453_zps9is2cqbx.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151010_173453_zps9is2cqbx.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151010_175229_zps7krghwct.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151010_175229_zps7krghwct.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151010_175240_zps00nilapk.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151010_175240_zps00nilapk.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151010_175323_zpsr8xx36bu.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151010_175323_zpsr8xx36bu.jpg.html)
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Neat, where is your oil pickup going for turbo?
That will vibrate a lot though with those mounts.
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Neat, where is your oil pickup going for turbo?
I am planning on using the port on the back of the head. If that doesn't work out so well I will pull off the oil filter housing.
That will vibrate a lot though with those mounts.
Yeah, I'm afraid of this too. I used the big green 5 series mounts before and loved them might be switching back to those if these don't work out. But, this is just a "fun" car so it may be tolerable for what it is.
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What about the oil port on the front of the filter? It's before the filter though.
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What about the oil port on the front of the filter? It's before the filter though.
Would there be a benefit to that port instead of the rear port?
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Intake manifold is done! Created it from two oem intake manifolds. Also you will see a throttle body from a land rover, its roughly 3" ID. Idle control valve has a bit of a tweak as well.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151011_145941_zpsschjplvd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151011_145941_zpsschjplvd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151021_192620_zpsy4cwzxmd.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151021_192620_zpsy4cwzxmd.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151022_182822_zpsnsbmfokw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151022_182822_zpsnsbmfokw.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151029_170949_zpsqnm8ymu1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151029_170949_zpsqnm8ymu1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151029_171817_zpsuxilejfy.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151029_171817_zpsuxilejfy.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151029_190453_zpstn9typby.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151029_190453_zpstn9typby.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151102_172713_zpssuacnonv.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151102_172713_zpssuacnonv.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151103_170558_zpsixxzybqt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151103_170558_zpsixxzybqt.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151107_130611_zpslacyb1ng.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151107_130611_zpslacyb1ng.jpg.html)
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Love the IM. That is awesome.
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Love the IM. That is awesome.
Thanks, my original plan was to build a complete custom manifold. I wanted to keep it true and create something out of the oem parts. Definitely spent a lot more time and effort creating this piece to give it that "oem" look. It won't flow like my original custom mani design... but, 25 psi down its throat It will be fine!
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Intercooler and throttle body side charge piping:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151102_175529_zpsbrab9a1v.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151102_175529_zpsbrab9a1v.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151107_141246_zps5ehscmn1.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151107_141246_zps5ehscmn1.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151107_185055_zpsnxvukihp.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151107_185055_zpsnxvukihp.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151107_184952_zpsb6cblbkm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151107_184952_zpsb6cblbkm.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151108_151001_zps7ozbtk8z.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151108_151001_zps7ozbtk8z.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20151108_180545_zpsacci4fkm.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20151108_180545_zpsacci4fkm.jpg.html)
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Well, a lot has happened since my last post.. Just getting bad on updating this thread.
However, this is what I beat my head against today:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20160124_125640_zpsf2jarweo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160124_125640_zpsf2jarweo.jpg.html)
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Love the intercooler and oil cooler, massive good! 8)
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Love the intercooler and oil cooler, massive good! 8)
Thanks
Here are a few things i have completed in the past few weeks:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_175040_zpsfuajohtt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151113_175040_zpsfuajohtt.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151114_104213_zpswgocfqrh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151114_104213_zpswgocfqrh.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151128_164011_zpsnbfitqyr.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151128_164011_zpsnbfitqyr.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151127_090729_zpsuviennen.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151127_090729_zpsuviennen.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151127_095253_zpsmcdzhycn.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151127_095253_zpsmcdzhycn.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151126_113900_zpsml6nwtwh.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151126_113900_zpsml6nwtwh.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151205_135253_zps05axjvfz.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151205_135253_zps05axjvfz.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151205_175714_zps1yd6mn1m.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151205_175714_zps1yd6mn1m.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151206_092711_zpsrfw3dzgc.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151206_092711_zpsrfw3dzgc.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151206_105922_zpslzsunows.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151206_105922_zpslzsunows.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151221_201333_zpsa1xxxcby.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151221_201333_zpsa1xxxcby.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/Mobile%20Uploads/20151221_201409_zpsgeeocafw.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20151221_201409_zpsgeeocafw.jpg.html)
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Hi
Why did you go electric water pump? What's the advantage?
The oil filter cap how does the oil lines work? Very difficult to get something like that, typically adaptor plate, external oil filter and thermostat and bypass or cooler.
Cheers Rohan
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I have heard that going to the electric water pump is similar in principle to the Fan delete in that its one less reciprocating mass unit being driven by the engine. (even though technically the load is just transferred to the charging system which is still driven by the engine). I have heard that this can give you 1-3* hp? although i don't have any conclusive data on that. Could also be that its just a better unit. Jrw enlighten us! btw great build so far i love all the custom touches you are putting into this.
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The electric water pump has several advantages but, most importantly it will allow me to accurately control water temp and flow via customized ecu parameters. The stock system only flows at its full potential as RPM increases to the top end of the rpm band. As Tg mentioned the side benefit is less parasitic drag which equates to a marginally peppier feeling and a small hp gain. It is true however, that you will be putting an additional small load on the alternator. However, the pump draws ~6amps which is roughly comparable to an aftermarket stereo system.
The filter cap is made by UUC I bought it years ago for my s52 m3. It fits the m42 perfectly with no mods. These used to be widely popular about 10 years ago in the e36 market. I don't see too much info about this particular unit on google right now though.
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Interesting intake manifold. I have been searching out design options for an upgraded intake manifold for my Turbo M42, since I've heard from multiple people that it becomes a weak link in the flow path around 300bhp, I can't weld aluminum though, which is a problem.
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MAN! i love the intake manifold / throttle setup..... super car type!
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Interesting intake manifold. I have been searching out design options for an upgraded intake manifold for my Turbo M42, since I've heard from multiple people that it becomes a weak link in the flow path around 300bhp, I can't weld aluminum though, which is a problem.
There is no way the stock manifold is a weak link around 300hp on a turbo engine. Where would the restriction be?
There are advantages to making a short runner unit like JRW did though. It will give you better top end and of course the IC outlet routing is cleaner. The different throttle body is nice too.
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the intake manifold is really interesting for N/A use, i love it, i guess the bigger air box will help more on the top end for the turbo, i'm no FI expert though...
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This is JRW....Have a few updates but for whatever reason I was banned from the forum. So if a mod see's this please explain why I was banned.
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Hey JRW, not sure what's going on, it looks like you should have full permissions. If you are still stuck let me know and I'll keep looking into it.
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I think he's OK. I was testing a ban on Yahoo.com and forgot to remove it. It's fixed now.
Sorry for any trouble!
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Hi
Any reason your using the standard brake master cylinder, actually less than standard that's a 318i type.
Cheers Rohan
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Hi
Any reason your using the standard brake master cylinder, actually less than standard that's a 318i type.
Cheers Rohan
Hey Rohan
That is actually a master cylinder from a 1974ish VW Rabbit. The bore size is perfect for booster-less setups.
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I'm back guys! Have a ton of updates but I will get to those later...But, here is a huge milestone!
First start!
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/th_20160315_181900_001_zpsgqkwdxlf.mp4) (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160315_181900_001_zpsgqkwdxlf.mp4)
http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160315_181900_001_zpsgqkwdxlf.mp4 (http://vidmg.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160315_181900_001_zpsgqkwdxlf.mp4)
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What a neat and tidy install! Looks great, man!!
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Nice work!
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There is no way the stock manifold is a weak link around 300hp on a turbo engine. Where would the restriction be?
The general design could hamper flow at the top end. As I stated, it's what I've heard from 2 separate people who have themselves done the whole 300whp thing before. I have no way of verifying it, short of building a custom manifold and doing back to back dyno runs I could not be sure, but given the design of the manifold, it seems reasonable. I have a turbo and a fuel system that's easily capable of it but I still don't have a TIG welder so we'll see if I'm able to break 300whp with a stock manifold, I will certainly post my findings if I do.
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Awesome build!
I'm really interested in that oil cooler cap. Looking into other style caps on the market none of them say anything about the m42. Ireland says that theirs doesn't work, so I'm intersted in how you got this one to work. Particularly, what oil filter element did you end up using? I plan to get a similar cap from Rally Road for their s52 fitment.
Im sure many others would be interested in this as well!
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Be interesting to see what you do with regards to the oil filter cap. I know those filter caps fit, however from memory they couldn't find a filter to work either to tall or short. But perhaps a spacer might work!
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I ended up sending an email out to the guys at Rally Road and asked them if their m50 oil cooler cap would work with our motors. They got back to me last night and said that they can have an o-ringed spacer machined for the bottom of the filter housing that allows the use of a newer cartridge filter. Definitely give those guys a shout!
I'm probably going to be getting the cap and spacer from them sometime later this year. Glad there is actually an easier/cheaper option than the mocal diverter plate!
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Which gearbox did you end up using?
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The oil filter cap I am using is a UUC design I don't believe they offer them anymore though. Its an older design I actually bought it second hand back in ~2007 for my s52 m3. It seemed to fit snug on the m42 when torqued down good and tight. So, far after several engine runs no leaks from the filter housing.
As for the gearbox i am using the zf310. Haven't gotten around to the driveshaft yet though. Thats next on the chopping block.
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Dude the attention to detail on your car is awesome, I really admire that rotisserie too.
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Yeah, nice build man! Really like the intake manifold!
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Hey guys! Still plugging away on this build as time allows. Here is an overdue update!
I had to cut some length off the shifter carrier and UUC dssr to compensate for the longer zf310 trannsmission. The driveshaft also needed shortened it is a combination of the stock 318is shaft and a shaft from 6 cylinder zf car with 96/12mm guibo. After I chopped it and welded it back together I dropped it off at a local driveshaft shaft shop to get it balanced out.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160709_1850251_zps65lucbpo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20160709_1850251_zps65lucbpo.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160710_1402391_zpstsvvravj.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20160710_1402391_zpstsvvravj.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160710_1402181_zpsnkwyvazi.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20160710_1402181_zpsnkwyvazi.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160718_174444_zpscf8chlgu.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20160718_174444_zpscf8chlgu.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160718_174451_zpsqumy0kr5.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20160718_174451_zpsqumy0kr5.jpg.html)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20160719_191519_zpsolgpum3n.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20160719_191519_zpsolgpum3n.jpg.html)
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I'm back! My dash was a mess like many e30's I'm sure. So, I decided to experiment on my dash to give it a custom flare against searching for a new dash. I sanded the dash down and filled all of the cracks with flexible 3m glue. Filled the hvac vents with fiberglass to create custom gauge pods. Then flocked it! Turned out pretty good actually!
(http://i.imgur.com/hX45xMFh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/5VDSXFAh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/yr79Dxth.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/wKgn1JFh.jpg)
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The flocked dash turned out really nice!!
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Yeah, it was surprisingly easy and relatively cheap solution to an old worn out dash.
Wiring the speedo sensor right now. The sensor appears to look like a 2 wire VR analog sensor. Can anyone confirm this?
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gauges in with power still need to get the speedo sensor wire squared away then tidy up the wiring mess.
Left to right:
Innovate Wideband AFR, Autometer Fuel, Autometer Speedo, Autometer Tach, Autometer EGT, Innovate Boost/Shift, Innovate Water temp/bat, Innovate Oil press/oil temp.
(http://i.imgur.com/sLJ0rj5h.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/x4oowTgh.jpg) (http://imgur.com/x4oowTg)
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while the dash looks absolute stunning.. digital tach + digital speedo is dangerous, it requires more thinking compared to an analog one!
This may sound stupid, but when you are racing/rallying at the very limit you don't want to decipher the markings on your speedo..
Thats why the S2000 or any WRC/proper racing car with a digital dash has still a moving bar that functions in the same way as an analog tach.
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e30 painted! 8)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v83/whitebred21/20170602_204706_zpswhlw4vmt.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/whitebred21/media/20170602_204706_zpswhlw4vmt.jpg.html)
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Looks nice!
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Currently car is with owner Harold @ dynosource performance in Antioch Illinois:
http://dynosourceperformance.com/
Check out Harold with Tristan tuning, these guys are PRO's with megasquirt and any other standalone out there!!
Details to come.....maxed out the current turbo at 18psi. rwhp.. any guess?
Borg Warner Airwerks s200sx next!! 28psi!
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What turbo were you using again? From the turbine measurements it looked like a GT30 turbine with a nissan cover? Hard to tell since just about anything has a 2 bolt cover option.
Which S200 are you going with? Which turbine housing?
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It was a modified completely rebuilt garrett from a 1986 Ford turbo coupe.
Here is the video of the turbo falling on its face at 18psi & 265whp.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mx5oh5CHy7s
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New turbo:
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.83A/R T4 twinscroll housing. Did you make a new manifold or just adapt to a T4 flange and keep it open collector?
Which compressor did you go with? 56mm or 51mm?
Curious because I have been dreaming of a similar setup on my car. Also curious how it compared to the ford T3 60trim. Ive been concerned the S200sx is too large of a turbine.
The N55 turbocharger is essentially an S100 turbine with an EFR 62mm wheel ans smaller inducer. I think that would be an awesome turbo!
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This is the 51mm version. For now it is bolted on with an adapter. May make a new manifold for it at some point.
Going to run it on the dyno tomorrow, will post results.
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Awesome, that seems like it will be a good fit. The 56mm would probably be too big and be sluggish.
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Today, 330whp/281two @ 25psi
Last run tomorrow shooting for 30psi!
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Awesome! How is the transient response in comparison to the T3?
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here are the charts:
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Great results! It must really scoot :)
Do you feel the drivability is not as good with the bigger turbo? Very curious if its too much sacrifice!
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Not sure on the street. The chassis still needs buttoned back up. Debating right now how to proceed. 80lb injectors are at 85-90% duty cycle at 340whp/26psi and wastegate springs won't hold pass 26psi. So, honestly I am tempted to upgrade the injectors and spring and see what it can do?
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Focus on getting it driving first. You may find there is somewhere better to put that money!
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Focus on getting it driving first. You may find there is somewhere better to put that money!
Well, this many years into this project its hard to settle... Honestly, it may please more to see it produce. :o