M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: ryanjv on November 25, 2013, 01:46:46 PM
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I couldn't find something specific to my questions...
Quick background: My e30 has been parked in my garage for two and a half years. I just moved to michigan and rented out my house in toronto. As such i had to tow the e30 to my parents house til i can get it running and bring it to my garage in the US. I've now got it running, but i can't use it because it won't stop. There's a brake leak.
This past weekend i was going to replace my brake lines (the six rubber lines), because i thought it was them. Turns out it's the hard line that runs from the front to the brass T (#3) in the back to split to the rear wheels.
#10
(http://realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/p/m/7.png)
I've ripped out the entire line but when it came to removing at the T, the end was so rusted it broke off. Now instead of trying to deal with all these rusted/old connections between the rubber hoses, i've decided to just rip out everything and make it all new. I figured it'd be easier to connect everything and hang it up than adding new bits between old stuff. Besides, i can replace the whole rear set of hard lines for $35.
Anyways, my question is regarding the hose bends and fastening the hoses/fasteners necessity. IE there's welded tabs on the body where the rubber hose would feed through and then screw into a hard line (for example 1 to 11 and 1 to 14).
I'm going to try and save the tabs that they feed through, but in cutting out the old hoses and lines i may damage them or be unable to use them. Say i just held them in place with some kind of clip or zip tie so they don't droop. Would that be fine? or do the tabs also serve to help things from moving around when you apply the brakes since there's a lot of pressure in those lines. I'm hoping it's not a big deal so i can pull the old stuff out with a little less regard should i need to.
Secondly, there's some major S curves between the little hard lines and the inner hoses. Would not doing that cause an issue? IE, would there be any downsides to doing it like the drawing below? not only does it allow shorter brake lines, but it's less headache since i don't' need to bend as elaborately....
Top is how it is OEM, the bottom is what i want to do more or less
(http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/3984/lg2b.png)
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I would attempt to keep the stock routing. I can't think of why it'd be there though...maybe in case a line gets snagged - gives a bit of wiggle room.
I use zipties all the time. They're excellent except in cases where abrasion or heat are possible. In your case I'd use them until I found a parts car...or a part number.
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Thanks, i was doing some research and found this Why brake lines have bends (http://www.howstuffworks.com/auto-parts/brakes/brake-parts/brake-line-bends-loops.htm)
I don't' have the patience and may not have the skill, so I'm just going to shoot for "close enough" as far as following bends, It wont' be exact, but i'm hoping it'll be enough to allow the flexibility.
I ordered SS Braided lines to replace the 6 rubber hoses on ECSTuning yesterday because they were on sale for $68 (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-318i-M42_1.8L/Search/SiteSearch/Brake_Line/ES252829/). With 2 day fedex shipping it was $83. Even though i just bought the oem replacement from RMEuropean, i'm going to return those since i paid $82 for those.
But stupid me in my hurry, I forgot to order the T divider. I called them 20 minutes after ordering to add it on, but by that time, it was already packaged and out the door. FedEX was already out the door :( this morning, the tracking says it's already in my area and may be delivered early today. (ECS is only a few hours away from here) Definitely not worth tripling my cost to rush it, so i'll slow order it and it'll be a backup in case i can't save the brass on on the car already.
I'm probably the only person that would get mad at swift service
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Replaced everything and it went pretty smooth. The only tricky part was removing old stuff, but because i was doing hard and soft lines, it was easier to just start cutting everything into pieces. I tried to route the lines similar to the stock, but different enough that it's way easier to service joints and pieces while underneath.
Nothing leaks and everything went smoothly except for the left rear caliper. Fluid is going through the lines all the way to the caliper, yet with an open bleed screw (even completely removed) nothing comes out when i press the brake. The caliper piston does close, but doesn't really retract after. After pumping and trying to get something to get out for over an hour, i kind of gave up.
I think i'm going to pick up the repair kit, and hopefully after cleaning everything out, replacing some bits and greasing everything up, that it will help it.
http://www.rmeuropean.com/Part-Number/Repair-Kit---Brake-Caliper-__34211153194_FTE_10902E0B.aspx?LineItemId=3b415294-46c6-47a9-a5e0-39e9ee271d64
anyone have any other thoughts?
If this works, i'll probably buy the repair kit for the other 3 calipers too to just get it over with, as i'm sure there's over 20 years worth of gunk inside.
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I've noted a few times that the brake bleed passage can become plugged. Those rear brakes are especially prone to a bit of internal rust.
Rebuilding them is pretty easy & cheap. I love single-piston floaters. The earlier fixed 4-piston calipers are a lot less fun to rebuild!
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Congrats in getting the line routing in place. I'd say the far harder job is now complete! Sometimes you can clean out the bleeder passageway with some copper wire. But it also makes sense to rebuild the calipers with new seals. If you do one, then I'd do all 4, as they will be in similar shape.
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i bought the rebuild kits for all 4 calipers. i think it was like $22 total from RMEuropean. I figured, I may as well do it now and get everything tip top so i don't have to in a year or so. plus i'm sure it's never been done and i have no idea what the mileage on the body is. The Cluster came broken in the high 200's