M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine management => Topic started by: 91 318i on April 22, 2013, 11:48:46 PM
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So I figured out my hesitation problem. Now my car had a really bad idle. At a cold start it goes up to about 1200. Then drops to about 300 and nearly dies. Then bounces a couple times and then hovers about 6 or 700 where it should but it sounds lopey and has a slight miss at times. I now have code 1222 which is o2 sensor or a vacuum leak or it's running rich.
I'm thinking its either the icv or fuel pressure regulator. Because I've sprayed carb clean all over and found no change in rpm. And my o2 hasn't given me problems before and I don't wanna invest in one if I don't have to. The fuel pressure regulator is one off another motor and could possibly be bad. I'm unsure of the icv at this point.
I was hoping anybody could give me pointers or advice on this so I could smog it soon.
The check engine light also goes on if I stay on the throttle for a while but goes away as soon as I let off.
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Didn't you have a problem with a spark plug wire? How is the spark plug on that wire? Might want to check to see if it is fouled and needs to be replaced.
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It should be okay but who knows. Ill check all 4 when I get home.
Any other areas that would give me this issue?
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After searching and searching... I have a quick question. Does anybody have a picture of the bottom of there charcoal canister/vapor canister?
I think mines supposed to have a cover on the bottom correct? I have a feeling I knocked it while putting my motor in and loosened the bottom panel and it fell off down the road.
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I believe mine just has a foam layer on the bottom, which is crumbling to pieces!
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Okay. So my canister is okay. I'm gonna play with the icv after work today and if nothing ill readjust the afm. See if I can't make progress there
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Cleaned the icv and it seemed to improve? Hard to tell cuz the first start after cleaning was good but then it idled lopey. The second start after cleaning was just as bad as before
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I just can't get the check engine light to go away. I don't have vacuum leaks. I don't think it's the idle control valve. It's not my mass air. It's not the fuel pressure regulator. I've checked everything that would make it rich or lean and it's none of those things.
It's throwing code 1222.
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Update!!!
So KNOCK ON WOOD I fixed it. Used a whole can of throttle body cleaner on my icv. Swapped back to my original fuel pressure regulator. Messed with the afm some more. Idles beautifully. Drove it to a friends house and back an so far no check engine light. Glad I only bough a can of cleaner instead of new parts.
Now I don't have any idea if it makes a difference or not but factory used the hole closest to the afm for my icv port. I swapped that to the hole closest to the throttle body. Not sure if it actually changed anything or not but it works just fine.
Hopefully she's good to go for smog now!
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And check engine light is back on. Same 1222 code as before. It comes on if it idles for more than a few seconds or if I'm on the throttle for more that a few seconds. It immediately goes off if I touch the gas, let off the gas, or go to wot. I'm gonna clean the icv again because a combination of that and goin back to my old fpr again seemed to fix it at first.
If I have to keep cleaning my icv is it going bad? Or do I need an o2 sensor. I wanna buy one or the other not both. Because neither are what I consider cheap
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You really shouldn't have to keep cleaning the ICV. It must be something else. Have you checked all the vacuum lines? I recently found that my line from the charcoal canister to the manifold was pretty sloppy. The line to the FPR is hidden and is frequently cracked as well.
For O2 sensors you can use a generic one from a mid-90s Mustang and adapt it to the BMW harness. It's about $50 for Bosch sensor.
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All the vacuum lines are good though. My fpr vacuum line is new I used some hard line to replace it. My idle problem was fixed after cleaning the icv but now the only problem is my check engine light. It only comes on until my engine is completely warm. Then it comes on occasionally. It's the same 1222 code. And it only comes on after either idling for more than 10 seconds or holding the throttle for more than 10 seconds. But goes off as soon as I either let off or get on the gas.
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Ordered a new Bosch o2 yesterday. Should come in this week. I decided to go for the oe replacement instead of buying a late model ford one since it was a decent price and I'd rather not hassle with wiring.
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I know what you mean about avoiding wiring hassles. Hope this does the trick for you.
You might consider doing a pressurized smoke test in the intake to see if you missed any vacuum leaks.
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The only reason I don't think it's vacuum is because it doesn't have any idle issues. It's weird. The light only comes on every once in a while. And at a stop even just pushing the clutch in will make it turn off. It doesn't come on anymore while on the throttle. Only at idle and only rarely.
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Still waiting on the o2 to come in but in the mean time I found a spare icv that I cleaned and swapped in. What's odd is its a different part number but the same part. It's a straight through Bosch icv with a 2 wire plug. Identical to the one I had originally just a different part number. Both are Bosch. Both look the same.
Anyways. We'll see what happens with this quick little swap out. I also wrapped any possible vacuum leak suspect entirely with electrical tape. Which looks extremely ghetto but its easier than finding a replacement part for a quick test.
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New o2 sensor in. Still have a check engine light. Took apart the intake manifolds and siliconed between all mating/gas keying surfaces to ensure no chance of a leak. Still check engine light.
While I had the intake apart I noticed oil residue from the PVC hose in my intake. It was in the manifolds and the rubber intake hose and a little in the afm. I'm currently running 10w 30 synthetic. I know the factory recommends 15w 50 synthetic. Will that cause a rich/lean check engine light?
Another question is whether or not a messed up exhaust manifold gasket could cause this. I know when I was installing the motor i got one of the gaskets stuck and it got terribly bent up. I ordered new gaskets for that already but was wondering if a leak there would cause this light.
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That oil should be fine. I use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer. A bit of oil residue in the throttle body is normal, though I haven't seen it in the AFM. I suppose it accumulated and ran downhill.
A leaky exhaust gasket (or hole in your exhaust, upstream of sensor) can fool your O2 sensor and might trigger an error code.
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Okay. If this doesn't work I'm just gonna block the opening so I don't see the light anymore
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Manifold gasket didn't resolve it but at least have no more leak and my #1 exhaust port isn't blocked off about a quarter of the way
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Manifold gasket didn't resolve it but at least have no more leak and my #1 exhaust port isn't blocked off about a quarter of the way