M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: ReSuL on February 04, 2013, 02:19:27 AM
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dear my friends..
I thought I was having problem with my E30 chamshaft position psensor since even if I unplug it the car runs without any change and without error code in DME.. so I wanted one of my friends buy the sensor for me from germany and and I gave the part number..
the bmw dealer in germany said that the part number changed and he gave E36 m42 chamshaft position sensor instead of E30.. I learned it after chacking the part number of the recieved sensor... although the engine is same m42 the plug is different. but it is not a big issue I can shave the upper part and plug it.. but the problem is that will it work on it??
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dear my friends..
I thought I was having problem with my E30 chamshaft position psensor since even if I unplug it the car runs without any change and without error code in DME.. so I wanted one of my friends buy the sensor for me from germany and and I gave the part number..
the bmw dealer in germany said that the part number changed and he gave E36 m42 chamshaft position sensor instead of E30.. I learned it after chacking the part number of the recieved sensor... although the engine is same m42 the plug is different. but it is not a big issue I can shave the upper part and plug it.. but the problem is that will it work on it??
Check both sensors resistance in manual.
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anyone who tried it?? I have E30 manuel but do not have E36
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anyone who tried it before??? this is urgent..
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On the E36 it's 12.5 ohms approx between terminals 1 & 2 if the internet is telling the truth 0.4 ohms between terminal 2 & 3.
However, the car should start and run without the sensor working at all. What problems are you experiencing?
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that is what I see in the new and also old sensor 1250.. my problem is that the car does not pull good enough.. it should accelerate much faster... I have checked lots of things and I have no error code..
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that is what I see in the new and also old sensor 1250.. my problem is that the car does not pull good enough.. it should accelerate much faster... I have checked lots of things and I have no error code..
Is there O ring installed on the sensor? These sensors are very sensitive if the gap is not correct.
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yes there is an o ring on it..
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that is what I see in the new and also old sensor 1250.. my problem is that the car does not pull good enough.. it should accelerate much faster... I have checked lots of things and I have no error code..
How are you gauging it acceleration or lack of? I would suggest checking timing, and double check that you are getting good fuel flow if you feel there is a loss of power.
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How are you gauging it acceleration or lack of? I would suggest checking timing, and double check that you are getting good fuel flow if you feel there is a loss of power.
Firstly I compare it with with my previous m42 and then I compare with most of the cars on the road and mine shouldnt be like this.. in my previous m42 I would feel the seat on my back when I was accelarating...
I have checked lots of things including timing and fuel pressure.. the repairmen (not one repairman) said there is noproblem with those issues.. I have tried another AFM, put on new O2 sensor and lots of thing.. the last thing was chamshaft position sensor but I am not sure whether it is the same sensor since the plugs are different but the numbers on both sensors are same..
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Does your car have catalytic converter? Check and clean all the connectors with contact cleaner.
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yes it has.. I have changed the whole exhaust system and also put a catalytic convector.. I should try the second idea: cleanng the connectors but what do you mean by "all"? the ones about the sensors???
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yes it has.. I have changed the whole exhaust system and also put a catalytic convector.. I should try the second idea: cleanng the connectors but what do you mean by "all"? the ones about the sensors???
I mean check all. Because it could be you have some moisture/oil in connectors somewhere and it gives you not correct signals. Check wiring harness connectors (big one, near fuse box) also. Open them and spray with contact cleaner, let them dry and connect again. Use pure contact cleaner without any lubricants or other sh.... Also check for broken wiring insulation especially near connectors.
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Ok I will try my best.. thank you very much..
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What do your spark plugs look like? I am guessing at this point the car must be running lean, so maybe that means a failing coil driver, which means a new DME?
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I have an AFR and it says 14,6 most of the time..
How can I be sure about the failing coil driver in the DME??
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Failing coil driver would give you rich because in one cylinder fuel would not be burned.
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Failing coil driver would give you rich because in one cylinder fuel would not be burned.
Duh on my end saying lean running due to coil issues, you are quite correct that would cause rich running. I still think an examination of the plugs will yield the some useful information.
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I have an AFR and it says 14,6 most of the time..
How can I be sure about the failing coil driver in the DME??
I was getting fault code 1271 "#1 coil" on the stomp test (and IIRC, 55 on my scanner). Swapping in different coils didn't do anything, but it went away when I swapped in a different DME.
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I was getting fault code 1271 "#1 coil" on the stomp test (and IIRC, 55 on my scanner). Swapping in different coils didn't do anything, but it went away when I swapped in a different DME.
Once I had failed coil driver in DME but it was not firing at all. My friend replaced them, but probably newer transistors are faster so ignition timing was off, but it worked at that moment. Later I just bought other DME. And the problem why coil driver failed was because ignition coil was failed. So bad ignition coils burns your DME!
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Once I had failed coil driver in DME but it was not firing at all. My friend replaced them, but probably newer transistors are faster so ignition timing was off, but it worked at that moment. Later I just bought other DME. And the problem why coil driver failed was because ignition coil was failed. So bad ignition coils burns your DME!
I faintly remembered reading that once, so my test was conducted very quickly!:eek:
After removing the plastic cover and inspecting them closer I could see the laminated steel core was de-laminated and bulging where rust had started between the layers. Maybe I should take a few pictures to show what I mean?
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I faintly remembered reading that once, so my test was conducted very quickly!:eek:
After removing the plastic cover and inspecting them closer I could see the laminated steel core was de-laminated and bulging where rust had started between the layers. Maybe I should take a few pictures to show what I mean?
In my case there was a crack on plastic body.
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I have ignition fires all the staff with no code on DME.. but I am suspicious of the timing because of CPS that is why I tried the replace CPS.. and the question is lets remember :D does E36 CPS work on E30??
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Here is the answer... NO! it seems nothing changes but in a few days the injector's timing changed from 3,40 to 1,92 which made the fuel consumption worse with no power gain...
so I put the old one on but I am sure it doesnt work...