M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: meppadua on December 17, 2012, 02:48:20 PM
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In my 318is, my power steering fluid leaks out and every day i have to fill up the res. i filled it up to see where it leaks from and ive seen ATF on the side of the lower oil pan. is it possible the banjo bolt is cracked or is the hose connected to the lower oil pan? i also get this loud screeching sound ever since my power steering has been leaking. Its scary to drive my car around, some one please help asap! ive been searching for this problem the whole week and no answers.
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That screeching noise you hear is your power steering pump running without fluid and will eventually result in pump failure.
It is dripping from the oil pan because that is the lowest point.
You have a few options;
1) You could replace just the hoses to see if that where your leak is coming from?
2) More than likely it's your power steering rack seals that have failed so you may want to look in to replacing or getting your current one out and rebuilt. There is a cost with rebuilding as you are at the mercy of the shop in downtime of your car. Replacing will shorten downtime but getting old one out and replacement back in will take a couple hours. Google it; there are DIY's on how to complete this swap. You will more than likely need new end links as well.
3) You can unhook the belt for power steering and go without it. Yeah, it will be a bit harder to steer but you'll get used to it.
4) Replace current power steering with a manual rack. Turns somewhat easily and you never have to worry about fluid loss again...
Keep us posted.
Where are you located? Maybe one of us who have done this and are local can help you out.
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i am located in the bay area california.
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thanks for the help, going to have a local mechanic look at it.
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+1 on the noisy pump just being low on ATF.
I pulled the belt, drained the system and it's been fine ever since. I have stock skinny 14" wheels with pathetic 175/70 tires that I keep pumped up around 35-40psi though.
You might also just have the famous cracked P/S hoses - pump might be OK.
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Got back from the mechanic, he said hoses was fine. The problem was the pump, he said the leak wasnt coming from any hoses but the pump itself. Going to fix the problem soon.
thanks for the help
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Got back from the mechanic, he said hoses was fine. The problem was the pump, he said the leak wasnt coming from any hoses but the pump itself. Going to fix the problem soon.
thanks for the help
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Glad you found it. I have a pump from my car that I removed when I went with a dry e36 rack. PM if interested. It was working fine before the removal.
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FYI you can rebuild the PS pump for about $32 with seal kit 32411135880
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the mechanic is a friend of my dad's, not going to be an expensive fix. looking for e36 rack now!
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+1 on that - it's a highly recommended upgrade. I have one waiting in my garage for a break in the weather.
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I have no PS, never have, it has the best feeling of any car I have driven, try it without, you may never go back. Without PS you can "feel" the road and respond to the feedback that the car provides. The only con is that when you are driving, you are driving, no cell phone, no doing something else, you focus on what you have in your hands... the car! Not trying to be a jerk and saying that you don't pay attention now, but these cars beg to be driven not just ridden.
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sfinsf, did you just remove the belt to delete your P/S? I need to look at my leaky system - I just assumed it would be the rack, but this thread tells me I should also check the pump and hoses for leaks. Meanwhile, though, to get thru the winter, a belt delete could work, pending warmer weather for outdoor repair work.
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for a complete delete of P/S, the pump has to be removed. Then you can fill the rack or leave it dry. Different opinions on both on all the forums. The car will actually act differently if you just remove the belt. Steering can feel jerky. The fluid being pushed in the rack will cause the fluid in the pump to move but it will be stuck,to paraphrase at least, in the pump. If you want to see how hard the steering will be, you can remove the belt to get an idea but it will be a little easier without the rack and smoother.
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Thanks, monty. Did you mean, "a little easier without the pump?"
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yes, thanks for the correction.
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sfinsf, did you just remove the belt to delete your P/S? I need to look at my leaky system - I just assumed it would be the rack, but this thread tells me I should also check the pump and hoses for leaks. Meanwhile, though, to get thru the winter, a belt delete could work, pending warmer weather for outdoor repair work.
I removed all associated engine bay parts, pump, res, hoses and then purchased a PS delete kit, 2 bolts and copper washers. My rack has a wee bit of fluid in it. When I purchased the car it had been leaking for awhile and the whole underside of the car was coated in PS fluid and dirt. I never intended to have PS, even disabled it in my truck.
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A bit of an update from this passed Christmas and new years week. I got my power steering replaced, NO MOE leaks!! Steering is buttery smoothe now, but while without it I learned to feel the road. The most difficult time was turning the wheel if you stopped your motion! Driving without it was a good experience, now steering my machine is easier and I feel the car more. On to the Bad News now, I still have that mysterious screeching sound from the engine bay. I hear it a lot now cuz it is cold. I hear it the most often when I have the car fan on. Any suggestions to what it might be? I hear it when I shift in an out of gears and when I get to a stop sometimes
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probably one of your belts. When it gets cold they can slip. Check all your belts for tightness and wear.
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Along those same lines check the alternator bushings as they tend to harden and deform.
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Finally fix the 318. That loud sound was coming from the alternator. when the alternator belt broke, the mechanic forgot to tighten the belt. Now when i drive passed someone, i dont have to worry about the sound scaring them as i come around.
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How do i fix my door locks? I was looking for the CLU and i think mine didnt come with central locking. when i first got my car, the passenger door needs to be opened manual and the driver side had an aftermarket door actuator. i went to picknpull to grab a few of the bmw door actuators but i think i need something more than that to have automatic door locks. i also got the CLU relay but i dont have a plug to connect it, there wasnt anything in the foot well of the drivers side.