M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
FAQ / REFERENCE => Member Profiles => Topic started by: DirtyD on October 18, 2012, 12:36:14 PM
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Well I have finally started to scratch the surface with my "little" project car so I figured I would start one of these.
A little background: First off, she is an e30 1991 318iS in diamondschwartz. Bought the car back in '06 when I was 16, neglected the hell out of her while I drove the hell out of her.. Not too proud of this... long story short I ended up snapping both ends of my shift rod (had one side welded, then broke the other side shortly after) and the car sat in place for a couple years. I thought I had to buy a whole new transmission, but my friend took a look at it and it only needed welded together again to get it back on the road. We did that a couple months ago and I have been driving her around ever since. Although I do need another transmission, been driving with out 3rd gear for a while. Anyway, the car is pretty beat up and needs a lot of TLC but it is my baby so I will give it to her :D I'll post a few pictures up but she won't be pretty haha
I will probably start a list of repairs I need to do, as well as pictures/updates on what I have done to her so far.
Right now she is my DD and I have just been focusing on getting her primed up and running smoothy. Just ordered a few parts for the mess under the intake delete, if they ship this weekend, I will be tackling that project.
This car sat for 3 years so there is a lot to be done, if anyone has some idea's of parts to check that go bad after a long sit, feel free to post them. I'm just now learning more about these cars and luckily I have a good friend who has been helping me learn.
Will post some pictures after work tonight
So much to do to this car I hardly know where to start...
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Welcome to the club!
Take your time with the car, I'am looking forward to the photos.
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Welcome!
who needs 3rd?! Drive on!
Seems like if she is driving around then what I worry about that goes bad after three years of sitting has already been taken care of?! Gas, Filters, Rodent damages, etc. How are the tires?
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3rd is nice when in traffic and up big hills! hahaha
I need a new air and fuel filter for sure but they are doing fine for now (air filter wasn't in bad shape but idk about the fuel filter). Tires are awesome, bought the Potenza Pole Positions like a month or two before it sat. Put a new water pump belt, the other belts I took off.
I am kind of worried about the Timing components though, on a cold start it makes a loud knocking/tapping noise but goes away if I let it warm up before driving.
Suspension is a little sloppy, don't have the P.S. hooked up but still a little more loose then it used to be. Any idea's there(besides replacing)?
Ready, fire, aim, with suggestions about anything!!!
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Here she is, in all of her neglected glory!
(http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/kflexin/BMW/kyle-bmw010.jpg)
(http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/kflexin/BMW/kyle-bmw008.jpg)
(http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/kflexin/BMW/kyle-bmw007.jpg)
(http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/kflexin/BMW/kyle-bmw005.jpg)
(yes that is duct tape >.< )
(http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/kflexin/BMW/kyle-bmw003.jpg)
(http://i530.photobucket.com/albums/dd344/kflexin/BMW/bmwsaab.jpg)
(next to my buddies saab 9000) The saab makes mine look HORRIBLE!! haha
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She has developed cancer as well...
I obviously hit someone with my drivers side.. then someone backed into me on my drivers side... then i got pulled over for my turn signal blinding a cop (hense the tape). Waiting for a good size check to come in so I can get some body parts from DesktopDave. Then she won't be as crazy looking haha.
It is painful how long I let this car go.. Like I said.. she needs a lot of love.
Edit: I'll give a cookie to the first one who can spot my McGyver'd hood release!!! bahahaha
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The deadliest item on your car is your timing chain. If it breaks or skips a tooth, your engine is toast. Depending on the last time the chain has been changed out, that would be the first repair I would do.
Tear down the engine and complete, new head gasket, timing chain, profile gasket, head gasket bolts, possible timing chain guides, oil pan gasket, new shifter linkage, upgrade fuel injectors (very easy to do and cheap), heater delete on intake.
Again, I don't know how many miles are on the car, but if the profile gasket has not been changed out, it will cause damage sooner or later. The rubber gasket will break down plugging coolant passage ports. Not to mention that it will start leaking coolant. Mine was good one day, bad the next.
The oil pan should be taken off to check for loose bolts. People are finding several bolts from the upper oil pan gasket in the oil pan. I found 2 bolts on my car. These bolts have been reported to starve the engine of oil.
I seen that you live in Indiana, if you live close enough to Joliet, Ill. ( NW Indiana) I can help you with some or all of these repairs. Let me know.
john
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How easy is it to take a look at the timing components? Is it something I should check out when I go to delete the mess under the intake? or is this a whole job within itself?
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Just pop off the valve cover (which is probably leaking anyway,right?) and take a look down in there.
I have a DS project with a paint job just like yours...faded, peeling clearcoat and all! Welcome to the club!
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Take look like Keflaman said, but if your engine (timing chain) has allot miles on it, it needs to be changed. Take a look and let us know what you see.
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Not sure if my valve cover is leaking but I will check it out when i get a chance. If my parts don't come this weekend I will probably be doing that next week.\
Edit: My car has around 140k on it, odometer gears quit working so I don't know the exact but it isn't any higher then 140-145k
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If you need help, let me know.
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Just remember to take pics before taking anything apart. Then bag the parts after you remove them. You will think that you will remember how it came apart but you won't. At least I can't.
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Thanks. I have a good friend that will help me through it as well, but I will take your advice on that. I'll update tomorrow if my parts come in
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Here is a tranny for 150 bucks
http://chicago.craigslist.org/sox/pts/3349102575.html
Not sure on the mileage
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Thanks for the post, I actually found a one with the linkage for 300 shipped. Although that is one of the nicer looking g240's I have seen and it is close to me so I am half way tempted haha. But I really need the shifter rebuilt so the one I found is a good deal for me.
What all should I replace when I go to put in another trans? I know I should get a new flex disc and center support bearing but is there anything else I should put in while I'm under there? I would like to get some of the slop out of the shifter as well.
I was also wondering if there is a way to tighten up steering without doing the e36 rack swap, if there is that would be great.
Edit: Parts are in, just have to wait until this Saturday to get the intake mess out of the way.
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Update, I tackled the mess under the intake last night with a good friend of mine. I researched quite a bit about this project but did not realize how HORRIBLY designed the intake system was until we took the manifolds off.. WOW... just, wow..
I didn't have a good enough camera around to take any picture worth looking at but I will say that my engine bay looks amazing without all that crap under there.
(edit)well...here is a horrible camera phone picture for you:
(https://sphotos-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-snc7/431664_4674415816312_794294426_n.jpg)
I need a new intake boot (one connecting to the TB), mine is cracked right at the MAF. If anyone has one in good shape, let me know I am interested.
Next on my list is to buy a g240
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Small update..
Done quite a bit to my baby since I have posted in this topic. Replaced the transmission a while back, replaced front rotors and pads, replaced the thermostat and the housing piece. Did the valve cover gasket and all the timing components looked alright (to my knowledge) but I will post a picture/video here to see what you guys think. I would love to replace the whole timing set up, just not sure how much everything would cost. About to replace the blower motor before winter rolls in. Looking to replace all the front control arm stuff to tighten up the front end (she is a bit loose in the corners). Fresh filters all around, new belt (singular). Looking to do the power steering and AC delete, the PS pump leaks, and since my blower stopped working I took the belt off of the AC. If anyone has any info on how to get rid of the non-converted old AC stuff, let me know. I don't want to drain it until I know the best way to do so.
Still grill-less, haven't found a driver side front fender (schwartz) and last time I tried I couldn't get my current fender off to beat on it so I can get the grill on there. Any tips would be appreciated! :)
Video of the inside:
http://youtu.be/fFUKtxaokAc (http://youtu.be/fFUKtxaokAc)
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It's nice to see your car coming together. These cars are pretty well built - they can handle a beating.
Thanks for buying my parts too, I hope they're just what you need. I wish I'd read through this first - I have a set of L&R grilles too. They'd wouldn't have fit in the box I sent, though.
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Just a thought on tightening up your steering. There is a large nut on the steering shaft above the pedals that comes loose. It takes a large wrench and quite a bit of force to tighten up. Made a huge difference on my car.
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Control arms, ball joins, tie rods, etc are my next step to keeping my baby on the road. Been looking for cheap price but quality parts, currently looking at this ebay set but I am skeptical, what do you guys think? http://www.ebay.com/itm/230908244254?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I think your skepticism is warranted whenever something is described as "OE style". Suspension parts are too much trouble and work to skimp on quality.
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Control arms, ball joins, tie rods, etc are my next step to keeping my baby on the road. Been looking for cheap price but quality parts, currently looking at this ebay set but I am skeptical, what do you guys think? http://www.ebay.com/itm/230908244254?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT
I think your skepticism is warranted whenever something is described as "OE style". Suspension parts are too much trouble and work to skimp on quality.
Dammit! I didn't mean to edit your post! Please post again...sorry about that. :-[
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I've had mixed luck with eBay parts. I bought a set of E34 front suspension parts from FCP Euro, because I'd heard good things on Volvo forums. I had to return the "M5" alu thrust arms as they were nearly 1" too long. WTH?!? How hard is it to get the size right? The rest of it was generic (Moog, TRW?), but it made a big improvement. I'm not sure how long it lasted...I traded that car for a pair of E30s less than a year later.
I hate dealing with suspension work; I either postpone it or just do it right once and leave it. I've used generic, Meyle and Lemforder. Meyle used to be a good bit cheaper, but they're almost as much as Lemfoerder now. Best price I found on the Lemforder control arm is $101 at Blunttech (http://www.blunttech.com/item.wws?sku=W0133-1609149&itempk=378665&mfr=Lemfoerder&weight=8.25). ECS isn't too far behind at $108 (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-318i-M42_1.8L/Suspension/Control_Arm/). ECS also has a full kit for $319 (http://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-318i-M42_1.8L/Suspension/ES1892316/). I'm unsure of brand.
I'd recommend taking the car to a good indie shop and getting their opinion on the front suspension. Personally, I'd replace the steering links first. They're pretty easy to do, and tend to wear out faster than the control arm balljoints. Just measure the arms before pulling them, and match the length when installing the new parts. It'll get you in the ballpark. If the car is still sloppy after that, go after the control arms and bushings next. Then get the alignment you'll need.
It's a shame that the front control arm bushings are such a PITA. Those wear out the fastest of all, but once you've installed them, they can't be removed again if you install new arms later. The solid M3 bushings are a big improvement. I'd recommend the centered ones. The offsets make the car feel better but tend to chew up tires in street driving. I've always been reluctant to use urethane parts, but they hav ethe big advantage of being reusable. I've been tempted by the Treehouse Racing eyeballs (http://www.treehouseracing.com/new/products-page/product-category/e30e36-eyeball-arms-control-arm-bushing-set-2/), but $200 is a bit rich for me.
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I bought all the front end parts from FCP Euro when I rebuilt the front end of the 318is.
Control arms, stabilizer end links, tie rod end links, lollipop bushings (basically this kit before it was available) - http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-8-piece-e36-e36cakit8m (http://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-control-arm-kit-8-piece-e36-e36cakit8m) - along with power steering reservior and hoses.
I had zero issue with the correct parts? and have ordered lots of parts from them since. Only issue I had with them was with shipping, one time. Part was shipped from Illinois, to California, to my house here in Southwest Ohio and it tooks like 11 days...
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Okay guys I have a question, I am doing a little body work and I am trying to get the front valance off. Do I have to take the front bumper off to get to it? If so, whoever took it off/put it on last stripped both of the main bolts holding the bumper on, how do I go about getting this bugger off?
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If those bumper bolts are stripped, they're a bitch to get at. They use a pretty big socket head bolt (10mm? allen key/hex head), but those sockets tend to get rusted out. Sometimes they're easy, other times they're impossible. You can't use heat because the bumper and core are plastic. You'll need an eazy-out along with a selection of left-handed bits. I prefer the square ones.
You can't get at them even if you remove the bumper cover, although that might be a good idea to protect it. The cover is only attached to the core with a bunch of those plastic expanding push-pins.
The bumper slides into two large clips on the quarters, I'm not sure how you'd get them off without removing the bumper first. There are also two fasteners in front holding the facia onto the quarter panels. There are also a few hidden fasteners inside each quarter, just forward of the door hinges.
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Alright, here is what I am dealing with:
(http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u626/kloveone/ScreenShot2014-09-08at50410PM_zpsc8b20944.png) (http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/kloveone/media/ScreenShot2014-09-08at50410PM_zpsc8b20944.png.html)
(http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u626/kloveone/ScreenShot2014-09-08at50347PM_zps5f9fe3b4.png) (http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/kloveone/media/ScreenShot2014-09-08at50347PM_zps5f9fe3b4.png.html)
(http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u626/kloveone/ScreenShot2014-09-08at50433PM_zps076520f5.png) (http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/kloveone/media/ScreenShot2014-09-08at50433PM_zps076520f5.png.html)
(http://i1325.photobucket.com/albums/u626/kloveone/ScreenShot2014-09-08at50331PM_zps21592f39.png) (http://s1325.photobucket.com/user/kloveone/media/ScreenShot2014-09-08at50331PM_zps21592f39.png.html)
I guess I will have to get a set of easy-out drill bits like you said, those bumper bolts are stripped like no ones business. What are the left handed bits for?