M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Suspension => Topic started by: Eurospec on December 05, 2006, 02:13:15 AM
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It's coming from the driver side when making right turns, the faster, the more pronounced the noise becomes. I could also hear it while driving over rough surfaces. Sometimes occurs as Im exiting freeways (declined exit). It is progressively getting worst.
The sound itself resembles something hoping up and down and it's only coming from one side. Rear shock mount were replaced but slight hints of the noise were present before I revamped the rear suspension, including shocks, springs, and bushings.
What could be the cause of this? Perhaps a sign of a bearing on its last feet? Something is obviously loose or about to give way.
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The way you're describing it, it sounds like the wheel bearing.
Brian
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I've heard it's a major PITA for the DIY'er. Might have a mechanic take care of this. Any particular brand recommendation for the replacements?
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I've heard the same thing. I actually passed on a '87 325e because of rear wheel bearing noise on the test drive. Def. one of my smarter decisions.
Good luck, and let us know what route you take
Brian
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From the info I have gathered it could be the cv joint going bad. I know my mechanic pointed out these were showing some wear. Any thoughts?
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your cv joins will make more of a ticking than a roaring or hoping noise. haha, if it sounds like a "womp, womp, womp" its more than likely a wheel bearing. both of mine are shot and my shit is loud as hell everywhere i go. i work at a garage so ill have the luxury of beeing about to save a bit on the labor and do it myself but i would definatelly suggest just saving a few bucks and letting a garage do it. diy will get you mad and no where unless you can thread a needle with a sledge.
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No womping. A more accurate descriptor would be rattling. Someone suggested I inspect the rsm.
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http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e30/rear_wheel_bearings/index.html
Looks simple enough, IF, you have the right tools.
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http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e30/rear_wheel_bearings/index.html
Looks simple enough, IF, you have the right tools.
Thanks for the link.
I'll see if I can troubleshoot what's causing the noise before I begin throwing money out the window and replacing stuff.
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How are those subframe bushings?
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How are those subframe bushings?
Replaced a short time ago.
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RSM, give it a try. Are there any shift problems?
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RSM, give it a try. Are there any shift problems?
The RSM is definitely something worth checking out. What do you mean by shift problems?
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When approaching a light in 3rd gear, clutch in, after a full stop it was hard to remove it from 3rd. After the diff bushing and half axles, the problem went away. Question. When you are backing and brake, is there a "clunk" sound?
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If you mean backing up and engaging the clutch, then yes. There's some play in the driveline :(
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To check the wheel bearing, jack up the rear end and try to find up/down and sideway play in the wheel. Inspect the CV joint for any loose. You say all the bushings back there have been replaced? As for choosing a wheel bearing...go for OEM.
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Jack up the car and put it on a stand. Have someone else to look with you.
Before you take off the wheel, grab it at the front and back and try to wiggle it like you are trying to steer with it. Look for movement of the wheel and rotor in relation to caliper.
Look for grease from the wheel bearing on the inside of the hub.
When my wheel bearings went bad they rumbled all the time and the noise varied with road speed. Here the "correct" tools for replacing them.
#1 left to right - nut, 2small washers, 2 large washers, old inner bearing race, the axle nut, 30mm impact socket, washers and nut - on a piece of all thread.
#2 socket and axle nut on hub flange.
#3 Washers and bearing race on inside of new bearing.
The old race will stay on the hub flange after you drive it out from the inside. After you drive in the new bearing using the old one as a drift you set up as in 2 and 3.
PM if you need to do this.
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Impressive ingenuity! Did it really help?
If it turns out my wheel bearings are bad and if you still have the tool, I would gladly cover the cost of shipping and then some. LMK.
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It's not worth the cost of shipping. You can use the 30mm impact socket on the axle nuts. The rest is about $8-$10 at Lowe's or Home Depot. The old bearing race will be on the axle and you "smoodge" it off with a hammer and small chisel. I used the old bearing with a piece of flat steel on it to drive in the new one. The outer race is thin and if you slip with a punch you puncture the rubber seal. Don't ask me how I know that or how long the bearing will last if you go ahead and put in the car anyway. LOL!
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Where'd the pics go :confused:
I'd like to save them to my hd for future reference.