M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => General Topics => Topic started by: twinpop171 on March 19, 2006, 07:04:03 AM
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Has anyone installed CC in their 318is? Is it model specific? There is an '87 325e in a local boneyard that has CC. What all parts do you need to source? I've never seen any write-ups on this and was just wondering if it's worth the effort to do.
Thanks, Dan.
Admin edit:
Check here for the details starting on page 3, post 53.
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?p=6340&postcount=53
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As far as I can see, no 318i/is from the US came with cruise control. The ETK reports no cruise option either.
I know one guy who has it but after asking him some questions, it appears a previous owner installed it. As far as I can tell, the installation should be the same in our car for other cars. I need to see how the actuator and all that is mounted. The toughest part will be making a bracket for mounting the cable to the throttle.
I plan to do the retrofit on both of my cars. If you want to beat me to this project, make a writeup :)
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I plan to do the retrofit on both of my cars. If you want to beat me to this project, make a writeup :)
But Mike, I rely on all of your write-ups lol. :D
How about an e36/m42 CC option for a mounting bracket. Would all of the actual CC parts be the same other than the mount on the 325e? More research required. I need a steering rack before I do anything else however.
Dan.
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This info from some of our members may be helpful.
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=60329&highlight=cruise+control+installation (http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=60329&highlight=cruise+control+installation)
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I was going to get cruise parts from a late model 325. I'd get:
Bowden cable
actuator/servo
computer
stalk
wiring harness
clutch/brake switch
I think bmwman91 mentioned custom designing the throttle/cable connector :D
I really think this is a pretty do-able project. I just don't have the time right now to repair work - nevermind upgrades!
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That's my car that has it. I have never bothered to try and use it and it's disconnected. Let me know and I'll be glad to help you with any questions as I have replaced them on my previous cars so the wiring part isn't too nasty. I had a spare set but no one ever bit when I put it up for sale on other forums so I gave it to the new owner of my eta.
I'd suggest to get the set up from a junk car along with the stalk, the lower column piece to accomdate it and the wiring. If you take a look at a junk car, you will actually see it's not too complicated. I'll compare the non cruise control equipped car as well to see if the harness is there as this would aid in making it plug and play.
--Our TB can accomodate the CC cable with the right hardware.
--The CC wiring into the cabin through the fire wall is a single cable
--Once in the cabin, it plugs into a harness that is connected to the pedals for cut off, power/signal to the actuator and stalk.
--I have my lower bolster off and i'll be doing a dash bulb swap sometime soon. I'll try take pics for you next time.
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Thanks e9nine for the input. So if I understand correctly, the '87 325e CC could be used for our cars except for the custom bracket. Is that right?
Zoso, you sound as if you've got the same amount of free time that I do....less than zero.
If these CC parts will work on my car I'll pick them up and save the install for a rainy day.
Dan.
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NP @ all Twinpop - I just did a quick dig around on realoem and the m3 and 325 e30 cars use the same actuator for the cruise set up. There however seems to be a slight variation for airbag cars with regards to the stalk.
I simply had an extra cruise unit that I gave away, I never really delved into comparison.
Actuator source cars: http://www.realoem.com/bmw/partxref.do?part=65711373681&showus=on
part # 65711373681
You will notice the simpicity of the whole set up, hopefully your donor car has all you need.
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cgregory (not sure if he registered here yet) also has cruise in his 318is. He thought it came like that from the factory but I think we figured out that someone retrofitted it.
With regards to the stalk for airbag/non airbag cars, the only difference is the geometry of the stalk. If I recall correctly, the stalks for the non-airbag equipped cars are bent back a bit compared to ours. Our huge steering wheels require the stalk to be bent forward so we can reach the stalk. The turn stalk/OBC requires the same things.
I actually already purchased my stalk and I got the older one because I'm putting the M-Tech II steering wheel on (eventually) and that one requires the normal (non bent forward) stalk.
.. I wish the local junkyard didn't gut all their cars because I'd love to see how the cruise is installed in a car.
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Thanks for all the input guys. This site is getting more f*****g awesome everyday!!
Dan.
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.. I wish the local junkyard didn't gut all their cars because I'd love to see how the cruise is installed in a car.
I'll try to remember my camera when I harvest the CC at the boneyard. I guess it would make for a good reference when retrofitting and also for a write-up. Who knows Zoso, I just might do a write-up yet.:D
Dan.
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I'll try to remember my camera when I harvest the CC at the boneyard. I guess it would make for a good reference when retrofitting and also for a write-up. Who knows Zoso, I just might do a write-up yet.:D
Dan.
eggcellent
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/burns.jpg)
My plan is working perfectly! :D
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anyone else have any info about cruise in a 318is?
jake
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i swear to god that mine came from the factory with cruise, all previous owners were women , and i just cant see them installing it.
it has the factory bracket on the left fender, and the control stalk on the steering column.....
prehaps it was a dealer installed item...... Tom Bush BMW rocks!
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and it works? i am in the process of sourcing the parts frm a 325..
I just picked up my 318is today
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i swear to god that mine came from the factory with cruise, all previous owners were women , and i just cant see them installing it.
it has the factory bracket on the left fender, and the control stalk on the steering column.....
prehaps it was a dealer installed item...... Tom Bush BMW rocks!
Can you please post pictures of the actuator/bracket, the cable, and the bracket where the cable connects to the throttle?
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Zoso - I got off my butt and took some pics for you. Too lazy to resize them so send me your e-mail address via PM and I'll send them zipped for you to do as you please. I have pics of the actuator, throttle cable part, the connector and the stalk wiring.
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can you send them to me as well
jake @ the guest room DOT net
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Can you please post pictures of the actuator/bracket, the cable, and the bracket where the cable connects to the throttle?
Ditto, pics please!
E9nine, can you send me your pics too please?
twinpop171@adelphia.net
Thanks, Dan.
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The file size is 7426KB or 7MB. Please make sure your e-mail client can receive the file. If not, you're gonna have to wait till the w/end and I'll resize them and post them online (now I feel bad for being lazy :rolleyes: ) haha...
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Thanks for sending them! You mentioned you have more? If it's not too much trouble, could you take a few zoomed out too so we can see the general routing of the cables and wiring loom back throught he firewall? I'm curious where it goes through the firewall.
BTW - I'm very jealous!
I'll put them on my server:
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20001.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20002.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20003.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20004.jpg)
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(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20005.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20006.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20007.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20008.jpg)
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Throttle body/Cruise cable clip: My cruise is disconnected as I don't use it. I have no intention to reconnect it and might swap it into my other m42.
Pic with wires...you will see the cylindrical shaped connector...that's where it connects to the cruise harness. I have not yet gone into my wiring yet as there's no reason but I have a spare cruise unit I gave to a friend which he isn't gonna use so I'll pick that up and take pics for you guys (might be about a week...)
Zoomed out pic: I'll get that out to you later.
Routing for cable through firewall.. hard to capture but I will try my best.
There are 2 wires that leave the actuator; one goes to the throttle body bracket and the other one goes into the car via firewall. I believe it's close to where the master cyl for the clutch is and you will see a rubber plug you can perforate when the time comes.
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You're probably one of those people that doesn't care about cruise...
Sure you don't want to rip it out and sell it? :D
Thanks for the pics so far. IMO, the retrofit looks pretty easy with the exception of a throttle body bracket and the actuator mounting bracket - I'll need to determine if those are the same as the ones in the M20 or the M3 or maybe even an E36 318?
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Z- Since you're the most DIY inclined person who always pulls through, I will send you the older cruise set up I have if you pay shipping. I'll explain why I got rid of it (broken clip) which can be fixed (I temporarily fixed it) :D PM me for details.
As to the one I have now, I have sold a lot of petty parts this year just to make space and I think this might happen again since I will be moving so I'll keep you updated :D
The m20 bracket is entirely different for sure. If you look at my t.body bracket you will notice the cable runs on the "opposite side." It might have come from an m44 car?? You can see where you can detach it. I have a spare TB and bracket which I can take pics of to aid the comparison later on as well.
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The file size is 7426KB or 7MB. Please make sure your e-mail client can receive the file. If not, you're gonna have to wait till the w/end and I'll resize them and post them online (now I feel bad for being lazy :rolleyes: ) haha...
Sorry for the full mailbox. I had to go back and delete some smut out anyhow.:(
Zoso thanks for hosting the pics, Dan.
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No prob, Dan. Thank e9 for taking them!
Ok, the braket that holds the actuator in place:
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20002.jpg)
is not the same bracket that is used in the E30 325
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/r/21.png)
It looks a lot more like the bracket in the M42 based E36:
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/g/y/70.png)
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Here's the throttle body linkage:
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20003.jpg)
Again, it is an E36 m42 based 318i part:
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/h/f/2.png)
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It looks to me that the actuator itself:
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20002.jpg)
is really the E36 M42 based 318i actuator:
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/g/y/70.png)
This is the E30 325 actuator - notice the different mounting brackets:
(http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/c/r/21.png)
Thanks E9 - those pictures are EXTEMELY helpful!
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So far we've learned that we need to use the 1995 M42 based 318i cruise actuator, actuator bracket, bowen cable, and throttle body bracket.
The next question is:
Does the 1995 E36 M42 based actuator have the same pinout and connector as the E30 cruise wiring loom? I'm guessing that the cruise computer in E9's car is an E30 cruise computer because it has to talk to the cluster to get the speed information and it has to talk to the stalk and clutch switch aswell. So my guess is that the E30 cruise wiring harness is also used.
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Thanks guys for the great detective work! I guess if we couldn't fabricate amounting bracket we could go to the stealership:eek:
The 325 CC unit should still work if need be, right?
I'll have do do some looking for an e36 m42 CC unit.
This is good stuff here guys.
Thanks,Dan.
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Great detective work here guys! I'm watching this one like a hawk.
Question: Based on what we know at this point, will there be much fabrication to this, or will it simply be a mater of finding the correct mix of E36 and E30 parts, then hooking them up?
Brian
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Great detective work here guys! I'm watching this one like a hawk.
Question: Based on what we know at this point, will there be much fabrication to this, or will it simply be a mater of finding the correct mix of E36 and E30 parts, then hooking them up?
Brian
At this point it looks like a mix of E36 and E30 parts... but we need to verify the electronics are E30.
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Sending you pics now...your assumption seems to be correct for the mix of e36 mechanicals under the hood and e30 controls in the cabin.
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BTW - The throttle bracket is the same. The cable is just routed the opposite way with the cruise setup. PN 13541727147 applies to e36 and e30 cars.
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(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20010.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20011.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20012.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20013.jpg)
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(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20014.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20015.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20017.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20018.jpg)
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(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20019.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20020.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20023.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20026.jpg)
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(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20030.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20031.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20032.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20033.jpg)
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(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20034.jpg)
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/misc/cruise/m42_cruise%20035.jpg)
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Sending you pics now...your assumption seems to be correct for the mix of e36 mechanicals under the hood and e30 controls in the cabin.
The part we need to see, the cruise computer is behind the glove compartment...
You mentioned that you were ripping it all out of your car and potentially putting it in your other E30? When you do that, we can get a good look at the other components - the cruise computer, the wiring harness, and the clutch/brake switch.
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Awesome pics e9nine, great help for this thread.
Thanks, Dan.
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shamefully stolen from http://www.e30.de
Oh and tempomat i'm fairly sure means cruise control in german...
Tempomat fitting instruction
The Tempomat installation becomes following into a 318i M40 Touring transmission (no Tempomat preparation). The VDO is blocked compactly speed act.
1. Assembly of the actuator (inclusive control electronics)
· The 3 point base plate somewhat modify and onto the front mounting plate of the air cleaner with screw
· The actuator is to look with cable assembly toward tail
· Cable assembly shorten and in light elbow to the gas modulator at the engine lead
· Cable assembly by the second hole pull
· The course to the original course fasten
· The coat of the cable assembly at the original coat with provided clamp fix. Note: not too firmly
screw on, otherwise one wedges the gas courses
· Cable assembly now with cable straps fix. Tap: if one the cable assembly before the actuator at one
immovable point fixed, no vibration to the actuator transferred => longer lifetime, improves
Functionality
2. Wiring harness shift
· Upper floor space lining on the driver's side remove (possibly equal lower steering column cover
decreases, needs one later still)
· In the floor space direction front is above on the left of a rubber plate from which one before-perforated holes
to take out can come over into the engine compartment. Take as small a hole as possible and
cut out (possibly one does not have to seal it later again somewhat thereby it wet clean-come,
that do not have I yet tested)
· Wiring harness at the controller stick on and only times isolate with provided spaghetti tubing
· Now wiring harness by the before opened hole into the floor space lead. The hole finds it underneath of the
Fuse box. Who small hands has may come. I not => considerable Gepfrimel. Tap: I
to me such a small tube from the aquarium need took (pale pipe for peas) and there one
Cord through led. At the other end made and then one knows a loop there the 5 pins of
Guidance switches get jammed. Subsequently, the pins with our extension by the hole press (that
Rubber stretches rather, but nevertheless watch out that nix tears. And tata we are in the floor space
· Now the wiring harness on the desired length pull tight
· Wiring harness in the engine compartment fasten
3. Tachogeber signal measure
· Combination instrument (Tacho tachometer unit) remove
· Now divide (some screws on the back)
· Tacho develop (once again 4 screws on the back)
· To the Tachoeinheit is there a pin 31b. There the Tachogeber signal is measured. I have to the pin
a cable soldered and this by a small hole on the back implemented (lustre terminal to)
4. Clutch switches install
· In the floor space direction front is left over the clutch pedal a short Metalleiste 8x3cm. There become
a few things grounded
· The groundings of the lower screw unscrew and to the upper screw to
· Now the provided flat iron is installed onto that the clutch switch to shorten in such a way and bend that
to be installed there can
· Clutch switches drauf and still in such a way bend that also really everything fit
· Function examine: with clutch in resting position the switch must be pressed
5. Connect from clutch and brake switches
· You look there best into the guidance
· Short: a cable (brown goes into the Bramsschalter purely), a second short goes from the BS to the KS and of
KS goes third (lila) toward controller.
· However with + and - must kucken you once again
6. Steering column switches install
· Lower steering column cover off (there the steering wheel must also also off)
· There lever a Vorprägung on the inside of the lower is left under+behind half from the windshield wiper
Steering column cover.
· Hole bore
· Levers accomplish
· Levers bend in such a way that it sits correctly
· Bolting on
· Lining again to
7. Connection of all cables and switches to the wiring harness
· Well, no problem should be. Is as paint from numbers (see guidance)
8. Power connection for controller
· There gibts a cable measures the river for the controller at the radio that supplies 12 V when more switched on
Ignition that is the correct
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I got an entire e30 cruise setup and I have a e36 318 acuator on its way to me. I should have it next week sometime. Does anyone have a good wiring diagram for the cruise system on a e30. I will report back when i get the e36 acuator if it has the same connector as the e30 harness. I want to know all the wires parts of this and where everything plugs in before I pull apart my dash. (also plan to install the OBC at the same time)
I plan to document the install when I do it.
A Couple questions....if i turn the key with the airbag out with I assume the SRS light will stay on. Will it go out once I hook everything back up?
Next...is the speed sensor in the diff? Would be nice to jack the rear up and test the cruise before i am on the road.
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I got an entire e30 cruise setup and I have a e36 318 acuator on its way to me. I should have it next week sometime. Does anyone have a good wiring diagram for the cruise system on a e30. I will report back when i get the e36 acuator if it has the same connector as the e30 harness. I want to know all the wires parts of this and where everything plugs in before I pull apart my dash. (also plan to install the OBC at the same time)
I plan to document the install when I do it.
A Couple questions....if i turn the key with the airbag out with I assume the SRS light will stay on. Will it go out once I hook everything back up?
Next...is the speed sensor in the diff? Would be nice to jack the rear up and test the cruise before i am on the road.
jakeb you are the man!
Are you taking pics of the install?
I don't know about the SRS light but maybe someone else will post on it.
The speed sensor is in the diff.
Check the Haynes manual thread here, maybe a wiring diagram is in there. I don't know if realoem.com has wiring info.
Good luck and keep us posted you pioneer you.
Dan.
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Yes I will take pics...and if it all works...even a write up will follow
jake
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I am learning more.... Looks like we will also need this plug on the back of the cluster. The one that is circled..
I didn't get that with my cruise parts so I will need to track one down
(http://www.e30forum.de/diyfaq/tachosig/images/01.jpg)
As you can see here is a 318is cluster...grabed a pic from the OBC install
(http://zoso.no-ip.org/images/318i-OBC/09-cluster.jpg)
As you can see it is missing on ours. I wonder if it missing on all 318is...if anyone wants to add there that would be cool
Other than that the wiring so far is looking pretty stright forward. I understand all the wires on the e30 cruise harness now.
I am hoping to get everything understood and get that other little part by the middle of next week. I have this and the OBC wanting to be installed and going to take some time next week to pull the dash apart.
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A Couple questions....if i turn the key with the airbag out with I assume the SRS light will stay on. Will it go out once I hook everything back up?
Once you turn the key with the airbag out you trip some sort of something and the only way to get the light turned off is to find a dealership that still has the tool to turn it off (which as I understand it is extremely hard to do), you then have to pay them like $250 just to turn of the dumb light...
You say you have the wiring all figured out, I'm interested to know about it...
Ben
PS. Hi everyone, I've been a lurker here for a while but this thread finally induced me to sign up...
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I have all the parts now. Fitted the acuator in the engine bay and connected to the TB. I used the e30 acuator and the e36 acuator cable, pretty easy to switch the two.
The plug under the dash where the cruise is suposed to plug in isn't there...so after some diagram reading, wire tracing and testing you must tap into the brake light circuit. That is where the cruise gets its power.
So....I am thinking that I should have some time tomorrow to pull the dash apart and give this a go. I plan to take pictures as I go and when it works I will write up a How-to
So if it doesn't take all that long I should be able to report back tomorrow afternoon unless the job spills into saturday....
wish me luck
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Another update, car is all torn apart right now. Didn't have enough time to finish it before I went to work. So I will finish it up tomorrow.
The cruise computer will not fit in the bracket that I got with it, even though there is the holes to mount the bracket. I am sure some fab work could be done here to make it work as it should but....there is enough room above the DME to fit the computer in there so I am going to just use some foam to hold it in there.
The clutch switch bracket doesn't fit either...at least during my first try. I am going to try and "adjust" aka bend, it tomorrow and see what I can do. Otherwise I will just go without and make sure I tap the brake pedal to turn off the cruise.
The cruise stalk bolts right up, you have to get a longer m5 screw that goes through the bottom of the wiper stalk to hold the cruise stalk in.
Its getting closer..... will update tomorrow.
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It works....pretty easy install. Still need to make the bracket work for the clutch pedal. I will add more here soon.
Jake
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Jake, glad to hear it works. Can we have a parts list and all that good stuff? ('m guessing thats what you meant by adding more). How long would do you think it took from start to finish?
After looking at my engine compartment yesterday I realized that it looks like I've already got the bracket that is needed to attach the actuator cable to the throttle body. Does anyone else have this or is mine just a fluke?
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I will put together a How-to, but here is pretty much the run down.
You need:
**full e30 cruise setup (wires, computer, stalk, actuator)
**e36 actuator bracket and the cable that goes from the actuator to the TB. (from Monko141: needs to be from a 92' to 94' 318. Actuator cable 65-71-8-357-087 )
**part number, 62 11 1 372 218, real oem calls it a plug housing....what it is, is a green plug that connects to the back of the cluster, it has some long stiff wires that push into little holes in the cluster and then the "plug housing" has a spot to plug the cruise harness into
**M5 x 20mm screw (this is a replacement for the lower screw that holds the wiper stalk to the column and then allows the cruise stalk to be held in place)
**wire taps (or something to do their job)
**2 conductor plug
You Do:
In the Engine Compartment:
Replace the actuator cable (goes from the actuator to the TB) with the cable that you pulled from the e36. To do this there is a clip you push down and then you can pull the cable out and unclip it.
Mount the actuator using the e36 bracket on the AFM mount.
There is a large rubber grommet that has all the other wires going from the engine compartment to the cabin and you can push the acuator wiring through that.
Inside the Car:
You have to remove the cluster, lower panels, steering wheel, etc etc. I used the OBC walk through to get it all off. I also installed the OBC at the same time.
Fish the cruise harness from the driver’s side to the passenger side, behind the radio, etc...there is a blue connector that connects to the cruise computer...same type as on the OBC and back of the cluster. The cruise computer is supposed to be installed with a special bracket...which I have. But I couldn't get it to fit in right. So I just set the cruise computer above the glove compartment and surrounded it with foam.
Install the "plug housing" in the back of the cluster...just slide it in...can't really install it wrong. Plug the cruise harness into the "plug housing" It goes into the middle plug..labeled with the letter "A"
Fish the rest of the harness around the left side of the cluster...I tie wrapped it up with the existing harness and brought it down under the column.
Mount the cruise stalk under the wiper stalk. There are two plastic bosses on the cruise stalk and they fit right into the column. Then the lower screw (replace with M5x20mm) holds them all together.
Plug the cruise stalk into the cruise harness. Tie wrap if you please.
There is a ground connection on the cruise harness....single squareish plug. I did not know where this was supposed to plug in, so I cut it off and crimped on a ring terminal and found a something to ground it on. I used the mount for the knee pas thingy on the left hand side.
Then there is a 2 wire plug...one blue/white wire and one green/brown (I will double check the colors. ) This normally plugs into a junction block, which our cars have but it is missing the actual pins where it would make contact. So you will need to cut this off...get a different 2 wire connector and splice it into the brake light switch. The colors match(makes it easier) This spot is where the cruise system gets its power.
Connect the actuator cable to the cruise harness.
You will have one wire with a spade connection that you don't need...it is for auto cars only. Just tape it back to the harness.
I didn't install the clutch switch just yet but I will soon. It just plugs into the harness....white connector.
And that’s it!
Put all the panels back on...or try it first (what I did)
I did take some pictures as I went along...not a lot as my batteries were dead the first day. And I was kind of excited to get it all in. But I think I got enough to explain it a little better...along with this written explanation.
In addition to having this and the OBC...I was "cruising" at 50mph and reset the OBC MPG mode and it said I was getting 50mpg... It was a very flat spot, who knows if I was really getting 50...or not but it was cool none the less
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Sweet! Thanks for the info, and I'm looking forward to seeing the pics
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Awesome job Jake!
Pics to go with your write up please!
Someone actually scooped Zoso on a write up.:D
This forum gets better daily.
Dan.
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Nice work! I, too, look forward to seeing the pictures.
I have no problem being beaten out on this writeup :) I've spent tons of money recently (bought a Jeep Grand Cherokee on eBay, a HD camcorder, new shocks for the jeep, etc)... so I need to pay off some stuff before I spend the cash on the cruise parts.
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Here is a link to some pictures, http://www.theguestroom.net/car/318cruise/
I wish I would have taken more...but it was too exciting..haha
still working great.
Jake
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cruise control nuts:
http://www.theeurodepot.com/e301990brilliantred318imanual.html
apparently, this has cruise control... somebody call joel and buy the parts!
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Just did this yesterday. Granted I moved it from one m42 into another - it was somewhat easy. The post by JakeB pretty much nails everything. Slight similarity here and there but it's not complex.
-- As menionted - 1 wire is for the auto cars, ignore it.
-- Also mentioned above - no need to try to swap the steering column covers, Ours is already perforated or if you got it from an airbag car you're good to go.
-- Yes it does get the power from the brake switch.
-- Make sure to yank the clutch switch + bracket from the donor car.
-- Our clusters don't have the green tab for the speed sensor. Simply pull it from a cluster that has one and plug it in yours.
-- I didn't relocate the cruise unit to the factory location. Didn't want to fish wiring all the way across. Mine is simply in the d.side footwell sans the OEM bracket. It's semi- ziptied.
-- I had to use a different screw to hold the cruise stalk in. Not a big deal as I have a plethora of screws from tearing apart too many e30s.
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cruise control nuts:
http://www.theeurodepot.com/e301990brilliantred318imanual.html
apparently, this has cruise control... somebody call joel and buy the parts!
I don't see a cruise stalk there?
(http://www.theeurodepot.com/e30red318imanual4door3.jpg)
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This write up is what encouraged me to do this retrofit. Basically I have completed it although there is one thing which I am not sure about. How exactly do you remove the actuator cable from the unit. I have had a good look and I was unable to work out how to swap the e30 cable with the e36 one. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks for the work you guys have put in, it has helped me immeasurably!
________
Lincoln MKR picture (http://www.ford-wiki.com/wiki/Lincoln_MKR)
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This write up is what encouraged me to do this retrofit. Basically I have completed it although there is one thing which I am not sure about. How exactly do you remove the actuator cable from the unit. I have had a good look and I was unable to work out how to swap the e30 cable with the e36 one. Any help would be much appreciated.
Thanks for the work you guys have put in, it has helped me immeasurably!
Where the cable attaches there is a clip, push the clip in and the cable will then pull out. With the cable pulled out a little bit there is a rubber band looking thing and a brass clip, you can disconnect the two and then switch the cable. Once you get it apart it will make more sence. I hope that helps.
I just finished my retrofit thanks for the good info! One thing i would like to add is that i used the clutch switch and bracket from an 89i and i didnt have to modify it in any way.
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Hello all.
I've installed full cruise into my 318iS but I have just 2 minor problems.
1) The actuator body does not bolt to my AFM - I need the bracket in some of these pix.
2) The Cruise throttle cable I have does not fit in the M42/M44 throttle butterfly - it's a square head in a round hole situation.
I guess what I need is a part number for the clamp / adapter for the actuator body and the correct throttle cable? Part numbers anyone?
Any help would be great.
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Anyone?
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What car did your cruise unit come from?
Look up P/Ns from http://www.realoem.com under the e30m3.
The cruise actuator mounting bracket simply "attaches" on the front end of where the AFM is bolted in the engine bay.
Hope this helps.
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Wish I would have seen this write up before I did mine. Just a couple of things to mention, the bracket that holds the computer module bolts in first and then the module snaps into it. Its really a PITA but it does fit. The purple/white wire on the connects to the accessory circuit which is where it picks up power. The green/red goes to the load side of the brake switch to drop out the CC when the brake is pressed. I drilled out the threads on the stalk I believe and used the longer screw and the stalk mounted to the steering column much tighter. I ended up just screwing the engine compartment module to the fender. I used some rubber grommets and some short sheet metal screws. I did encounter a problem with the clutch switch being to far from the clutch pedal. A simple adjustment and I was good to go.
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I've got mine sorted.
All you need is the E36 Actuator bracket mount for any 4-cylinder E36 (M42/M43/M44).
The rest of the stuff is straight E30.
Our cars never had Cruise,possibly not even as an option which explains why there
is no provision for it at the equipment panel behind the glovebox.
A useful mod I looked at was to plug the Cruise into the heated seat socket, as the heated
seat is an even easier splice, needing just a single 12V feed.
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re: routing cruise control actuator wiring from engine bay to cabin
From foot well (inside the car), I see the area where it passes through – but I’m having trouble accessing that area from the engine side.
It looks like removing or pulling aside fuse/relay box would provide access. I’ve removed some screws and fasteners – and it’s loose, but doesn’t come up very far. Wiring from the [passenger] side of the box interferes with the diagnostic plug hosing.
Anyone have tips on how to get that actuator wiring into the foot well?
(http://img203.imageshack.us/img203/5606/dsc01852.jpg) (http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/4287/dsc01850dde.jpg)
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That's quite the write up... I'll have to get an e36 actuator & finish mine up.
I'd put that wire through with the main harness. There is a single bolt that holds the fuse box. Loosening it will give you maybe only 1/2" wiggle room though.
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well, that was fun..
Examined main wiring harness firewall grommet and noted pre-notched circles for wiring cables.
(http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/7202/dsc01852lg.jpg)
Pulled that main harness grommet out and removed dime-size circle for the actuator wiring. I removed it by poking the tip of an exact-o knife at different spots in the notched circle. With enough 'pokes through', the thin rubber closing could be pulled away with fingers.
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/5500/dsc01872le.jpg) (http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/5426/dsc01874zu.jpg)
Fed a feeder wire up into the engine compartment.
(http://img12.imageshack.us/img12/456/dsc01875jf.jpg)
Tied up the end of the actuator wiring cable and puller her through.
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/5382/dsc01883m.jpg) (http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/3194/dsc01886l.jpg)
Once it was in the cabin, there's enough maneuverability to get the wiring through the designated hole - and the grommet on the actuator cable fit perfectly.
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/9084/dsc01889ie.jpg)
Yay! Almost done..
(http://img26.imageshack.us/img26/6508/dsc01892x.jpg)
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I've nearly put mine together, just waiting on a M42 cable & then a good test. It all plugged in without too much drama. I did have to splice the actuator cable because mine was cut from the JY.
You were right, Simon, that firewall hole is a pig to get to from the outside. I fished it from inside like you did, thanks for the tip.
I also installed a COP kit while I was in there. Just bought new sunroof cables, that'll be tomorrow's project.
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Mine is just about done as well.
Of note: Getting the cable from the actuator of the E36 to that of the E30 is a bit tricky. You have to "carefully" push in a plastic tab and then pull the whole thing out. The cable itself is attached to a ribbon that is coiled on a spring inside the body of the actuator. I learned the total inner workings by playing with one in a yard recently when getting all the parts together to do the install. It really is a cool design and how the actuator works is pretty neat too.
I gotta say, I have no clue how you guys have done it with your dash installed as mine hasn't been too easy even with the whole dash out.
Since I have the dash out, I'm going to see if I can find out how to plug into the power source at the brake switch as I have the whole harness. I'm sure it's there as I also just converted to the premium speakers as well as a power sunroof and I have yet to splice.
I'm now deciding on pulling the carpet and painting it black before I put the new dash and stereo and such in as well as put in Dynamat. Bummer (well not really) is that I'm on a pretty strict time line as my wife got a job in Stuttgart and we're moving in a couple months and based on insurance and fuel costs, we decided to sell her very nice E46 and take the little 318.
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After I posted yesterday, I found out some more and re-read some things.
So as mentioned (and I missed the first time) the place on the junction block for power is empty- thus why the writeup here just has you tap the brake switch. However, if you have the whole harness, there should be 2 posts open with the plug literally right next to where it "should" go in the junction block with the same plug.
I hooked the battery back up, and tested, and sure enough, one of those posts gets switched power- and it is the correct colored one too. In order to make the plug fit, though, you must shave off the tab on the plug.
There is a rather ingenious yet simple way that they made all of those plugs going into the junction block correctly. In addition to various bevels on corners of the plugs, there are tabs that are either on the top, middle, or bottom of one side thus making it very hard to plug into the wrong place.
In this instance, it doesn't matter as I'm installing a feature that was never there, but still, it's pretty cool. I've also found the same thing for the OBC as I'm trying to get the CODE feature to work there.
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Here are some quick pics I took to give an idea of what I was talking about:
This shows both places where the plug can go.
(http://longtallsallygs.smugmug.com/Cars/318is/IMG6358/715227655_qroBZ-L.jpg)
Trimmed plug.
(http://longtallsallygs.smugmug.com/Cars/318is/IMG6360/715227730_QKFhe-L.jpg)
Plug installed.
(http://longtallsallygs.smugmug.com/Cars/318is/IMG6357/715227611_RxoEW-L.jpg)
As I type this I am realizing something that I totally forgot. What is the purpose of connecting to the brake switch? To cancel the system when the brakes are pressed.
I might have to rethink my logic here as it could become a safety concern. Still I hope this is helpful info for someone...
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Didn't someone figure out that the cruise power came off the brake light circuit?
I installed mine & am having issues too. Two functions work...accel & cancel. Decel & resume aren't working at all. I'll have to test the switch when I get an hour or two of play time.
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Didn't someone figure out that the cruise power came off the brake light circuit?
I installed mine & am having issues too. Two functions work...accel & cancel. Decel & resume aren't working at all. I'll have to test the switch when I get an hour or two of play time.
I actually tested mine today and it worked! I was amazed that my junkyard pilfering got me cruise for next to nothing (honestly). One thing I did do was change the pics that I posted and put the brake cancel switch on the switch itself. I never tested it the first way as the more I thought about it, how would pushing the brake cancel the cruise with nothing hooked to that switch. I just used alligator clips and kept the end to the plug.
I know accel and decel work on mine, but I never checked resume.
My only issue is that of the smoothness of operation. I sets and works perfectly, but jerks a bit at speed. Is this thanks to having a 4.10 or perhaps should I put or take out some slack on the actuator cable? I'm also thinking that I wound the spring too tight in the actuator when I put it back together...
Ideas?
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Can anyone tell me what the wiring going into the cluster looks like? I just have a single cut blue/yellow wire where the plug should be. And if the plug has four pins but one wire, what do the pins do? I plan on making one.
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Mine was a very small plug with only the single wire. The plug itself was black, about 3/4" deep and it fit into the green terminal marked 'A'. Do you have the green snap-in receiver for the bottom of the cluster? It's earlier in this post IIRC. You might just be able to tap directly into the cluster itself.
I need to get another switch for mine...the clutch switch and the cruise stalk are both dirty and don't work. I'd HIGHLY recommend testing the clutch and brake circuits with a multimeter before testing on the open road (experience=wisdom in this case)...cruise will fail with the throttle wide open.
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I had all this stashed from a parts car I tore down years ago and put it all in when I put my mtech2 wheel and different stalks on. I got all the way to putting the littlepieces on the tb to hold the cable on and dropped it into the area under the intake, where it has never been heard from again.
I used the system from an early 84 eta and it all went in fine. Don,t know if it works though yet since I have to drive 3 hours to hit the nearest junkyard with bmws
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Just finished succesful CC instalation. Jakeb instructions has all the information! I used original acutator cable, made screw thread a little bit longer and sawed the end.
Some pics:
(http://static1.fotoalbum.ee/fotoalbum/308/331/077165599ca2a3.jpg)
(http://static1.fotoalbum.ee/fotoalbum/308/331/077165601fc008.jpg)
(http://static1.fotoalbum.ee/fotoalbum/308/331/07716560388111.jpg)
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Just finished succesful CC instalation. Jakeb instructions has all the information! I used original acutator cable, made screw thread a little bit longer and sawed the end.
It looks like you don't have ABS which may preclude others from doing it that way, but I really like the thought process. Well done.
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No, the ABS sits nicely underneath the cruise unit...mine is mounted pretty high with the bracket, it's closer to the hood insulation than the cruise module.
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No, the ABS sits nicely underneath the cruise unit...mine is mounted pretty high with the bracket, it's closer to the hood insulation than the cruise module.
I think you mean the opposite there, yes? :) The ABS pump can't be "under" the cruise actuator yet be almost touching the hood insulation... :D
But I understand what you meant to say. Either way, I'm sure others will appreciate the fact that they can do this more or less as a direct swap from a 6 cyl car.
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Finally stickied this damn thing.
Anyone know for sure if the e36 actuator cable that is needed has to be from an m42/m44 or can it be from any of the e36 motors?
Thanks,
Dguy.
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Needs to be from a 92' to 94' 318. Actuator cable 65-71-8-357-087 $28.28. Do yourself a favor and replace the accelerator cable at the same time 35-41-1-158-724 $25.95. Throttle body grommets come with the cables and prices were from the dealer with the BMW CCA discount on 10/7/11.
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So I just finished this. I used a e34 525's actuator cable, seems to be about the right length for the job.
(http://i.imgur.com/hr5FW.jpg)
Comparison here is the e34 cable I used along with an e36 325 cable.
(http://i.imgur.com/U3SUg.jpg)
Here's a couple of shots of the clips that hold the cable into the actuator. a couple of screw drivers and it comes out real easy.
(http://i.imgur.com/lMMOA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/k0GFF.jpg)
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Is it me or does the system have a little bit of trouble maintaining a consistent speed?
It varies by about 4-5mph but when it gets to about 5mph above where I wanted it it'll close the throttle completely, the start accelerating a bit.
It's not exactly what I'd call smooth or easy on my engine mounts.
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Mine seems to pulse a few MPH, not more than 1-2mph... Definitely not as smooth as the cruise on my old M20 525i was, but not as bad as the old vac-driven units were.
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HI GUYS! Umembuh me?!? :D
Anyway, to answer thedguy, I think the jerkiness is due to the short gears and type of engine that is in there. A buddy with an E30 M3 verified this a long time ago and mine always worked, but it was never as smooth as in the M20 powered E30s I had...
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I thought I just saw a ghost...
Welcome back LTS! Just a drive-by, or did you get the M42 bug again?
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Mine is horrible, I don't use it. I tried replacing the actuator and cable. The only time I can use it comfortably is up steep hills.
As soon add I engage it, it pulls enough throttle to get "15mpg" and it instantly tries to gain five miles an hour. Then completely drops throttle, losses 5mph, and starts again.
It's beating my motor mounts up and just not comfortable. I chalked it up to being a system built for a bigger engine.
I wonder if it'll improve if I go lighter fly wheel...
Oh well, I don't really need it as much as before.
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That's really odd - mine is pretty smooth. It's not as glass-smooth as it was in an M20, but it's close. It has a bit of a surge on slight uphill grades or in stiff headwinds.
I'd wonder if the clip is hanging up on the interior of the cruise control housing or something like that. BMW had a little trouble with the cable sheath too - there was a TSB about cracked adjusters and damaged cables IIRC.
On big hills it's pretty good. I also noted that on really long steep downgrades, it tends to light up a CEL on occasion.
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Bringing this ups from the dead but, VERY good info on here. Thanks guys.
One question though, I just pulled all the cruise stuff out of my 88 325i parts car and got the green plug for the cluster, but there is nothing actually plugged into it. Pulled the whole cruise harness out w/ computer but dont see the male plug that plugs into this.. ideas?
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Bringing this ups from the dead but, VERY good info on here. Thanks guys.
One question though, I just pulled all the cruise stuff out of my 88 325i parts car and got the green plug for the cluster, but there is nothing actually plugged into it. Pulled the whole cruise harness out w/ computer but dont see the male plug that plugs into this.. ideas?
There should be a single, blue/yellow wire enclosed in black (heat shrink?) tubing with a black, two-pin connector that plugs into the green connector; looks like this: http://www.theguestroom.net/car/318cruise/p1010001.jpg
(Pictures courtesy of member "jakeb" in post #57 http://www.theguestroom.net/car/318cruise/)
As mentioned in other posts, I noticed the system operating rather abruptly when starting inclines or coasting down hills. It was embarrassing when another car slowly gained on me only to have my car race ahead as we started up hills. Earlier this week I made a trip to Charlottesville and noticed the cruise control operation had really smoothed out since initial installation. I wonder if the computer has an "adaptive" mode?
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I'd be surprised if it's an adaptive system - seems like a simple stepper actuator that constantly attempts to match the set speed.
Do you think it could be the design of the M42 TB vs. the less progressive M20? Maybe the return spring in the unit is on the way out? I have also seen two versions of wiring harnesses off the switch - for no obvious reason I could figure out.
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Just want to give thanks out to all that have put useful info in this thread! Another successful cruise retro fit here! About the surging on hills.. I just drove 1000 miles to move with my new cruise and that thing stayed pegged right where i set, no surging, no issues at all. All the functions work properly (de/accel, resume, cancel etc).
Thanks again guys for making my road trip more enjoyable!
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Nice to hear - glad you found this thread. I agree 100%, a CC upgrade was one of the best mods I did on my car. I'd rank it 2nd, only the sport seats were better as far as long-haul comfort goes.
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Finally finished mine. Works amazing! Between this and cup holders in the car, two of the best mods.
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Finally finished mine. Works amazing! Between this and cup holders in the car, two of the best mods.
Post the cup holders too!
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Dave, These are from GearSwitch. Hold on I will post up the link.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CfpsqOAuTSw
The inventor, Ryan Carag, has a 318is as well! I think this a well thought out product and one that I highly recommend.