M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Exterior => Topic started by: bmwman91 on December 22, 2011, 03:25:36 AM
-
OK, now that I have all of the necessary parts, I am going to post the details of this project as I go. The aim here is to adapt FX-R projectors to Hella Euro "Smiley" headlight housings and run proper Phillips 85122+ D2S bulbs. As usual, I will probably "over-do" this in terms of sheer anal retentiveness. That means it may take a while. Nevertheless, I hope that people enjoy following along & can learn a few things from this!
Talk is cheap. Let's look at pictures.
To start, I made a number of measurements on the new & old parts. Then I tossed them into CAD & did some super basic interference checks to get an idea of how much cutting would be needed.
Red is where the parts interfere.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw001.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw002.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw003.jpg)
And just for fun, here's a silly ray-traced rendering.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw004.jpg)
I also took a ton of pictures of the headlight assemblies as I disassembled them, and of how I popped the glass covers off. It was really easy (and smelly...had to ventilate the apartment like crazy before my fiancee got home & discovered that I had been putting car parts in the oven again lol). It is late, so I will try to get around to posting some of the photos tomorrow.
I plan to stick the plastic low beam housings onto my lathe & chop the back off cleanly. That should give me a nice reference surface that I can machine a mounting plate for and keep the projector lens on a perfectly parallel axis with the housing. I need to be careful since there are other protrusions on the housing for the aiming posts (not sure if I really need to put them on the model...looks like I have enough room).
More to come...!
-
That's definitely ambitious...I'll be checking back on your progress. I firmly believe that the proper reflector is required for HIDs. I hate that bluish or purple glare from "JDM" H4 re-based bulbs. I love the clean white output from well-engineered parts.
-
That's definitely ambitious...I'll be checking back on your progress. I firmly believe that the proper reflector is required for HIDs. I hate that bluish or purple glare from "JDM" H4 re-based bulbs. I love the clean white output from well-engineered parts.
For sure.
Using HIDs in stock housings:
There is no way to get a proper picture of them to do a comparison to Halogens or ricer bulbs, but quality re-based H1 HID bulbs in the Euro ellipsoid light housings actually look pretty OEM. Since they all have different color spectrums, I can't think of a good way to do an objective photo-comparison since they would each need different white balance settings, and that mixes in my subjective opinion. Basically, avoid cheap-o HID bulbs that claim to be "4500K" because they are probably 5000K or 6000K and will get really blue as they wear out over one year of use. I had been using cheap "4500K" DDM bulbs and they were junk...bluish, and got even bluer/dimmer over 12 months.
I switched to some Morimoto 4300K bulbs from http://www.theretrofitsource.com and these are MUCH better. The bulbs look almost OEM when you look at the car at night (maybe just a slight twinge of blue), and the light that they put out on the road is basically a match to OEM.
I have been told that the US ellipsoid housings are actually much more conducive to HID bulbs than the Euro ones and that the US beam pattern puts more of the light where it needs to go on US roads (go figure, lol).
The real issue I see with using any used ellipsoid lights at this point is that the reflector dishes are all shot to hell. Decades of heat & oxidation dull the original mirror finish, and I would bet that at least 30% of the light that hits them gets absorbed instead of reflected. This is based upon what I have seen from opening a few pairs of used ones.
Honestly, a pair of Hella or Cibie H4 housings in the sealed-beam frame are probably a lot better than used ellipsoid lights at this point. THe OEM projector housings LOOK neat, but their lighting performance at this point is probably totally sub-par.
-
+1 on that. I helped a buddy install a NOS pair of Hella H4's on a his old bimmer, they were very nice indeed. I heard somewhere that the NA Hella ellipsoids have held up far better than the e-code smilies, though. Have you noted that at all?
-
Sadly, I have not had a chance to inspect any US ellipsoid lights closely. How much do they usually sell for? I assume that they are a lot cheaper than the Euro ones since the US ones have a lot less demand.
-
Everyone's favorite...picture time!
I have done a little more modeling to get the positioning of the projector nailed down. Right now, the plan is to leave 1mm between the lens & cover.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw005.jpg)
Another angle. I colored the "glass" so I could tell what the heck I was looking at. CAD can make things easier to visualize...and it can also do the opposite if you get carried away with adding surface finishes (me me me).
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw006.jpg)
From the back. You'll probably notice the adapter plate.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw007.jpg)
Partially exploded.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw008.jpg)
With the housing & cover gone, you can see the relative position of the new lens & the existing "shroud". I am a little concerned that the shroud will block a lot of light as it is positioned here. This will just take some real-world experimentation. Worst -case, I will have to cut the shroud up, or make a new one. I plan to paint it black to give the "smoked" light appearance, so modifications might not be all that noticeable. We'll see...
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw009.jpg)
Here's a quick shot showing what I plan to do to the housing. I want to chop off 32.675mm (29.5mm + 1/8" for the adapter plate). I omitted the adjuster brackets that are part of the housing since I do not plan to cut them. One of them will be in the depth of the cut, so it is going to take some careful cutting to not destroy it.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw010.jpg)
Finally, here it all is from the back. I plan to mount the FX-R projector using the existing assembly screw locations, rather than the little ears that stick out. It helps to keep things compact. The unused ears will get cut off, and I want to seal it all up with a big rubber boot thing (still looking for something to use). The diameter of the adapter is 5". If anyone can recommend a rubber cap for a 5" circle, and that is 2.5"-4" long, let me know. Basically, I need a bigger version of these.
http://www.theretrofitsource.com/product_info.php?products_id=4649
Doing it this way allows me to avoid putting RTV or aluminum tape all over the projectors. I wanted to use some 5" ID tubing at first, but the hole in the headlight bracket won't accommodate that without chopping it up, which I won't do.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw012.jpg)
I disassembled everything the other day. The plan is to clean the hell out of it all since it is greasy & nasty.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw014.jpg)
Here's the stock projector.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw015.jpg)
You can see where the Euro cut-off comes from. You may also notice that it saw a lot of heat & UV!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw017.jpg)
The world, as seen by an H1 bulb.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw018.jpg)
The reflector dish was in bad shape. Decades of heat & oxidation have taken their toll. You can't see it in this photo, but there are a couple of spots where the heat was intense enough to cause the metallic coating to crack & peel. It is supposed to look like a clean mirror in there. Based on what I see here, I think I will stop recommending used ellipsoid lights as an "upgrade." I bet you lose a LOT of light output with the old tarnished reflectors. Some new Hella or Cibie H4 housings (used with sealed beam brackets) probably give far better output at this point since their reflectors are, well, NEW! If you want ellipsoid lights & good lighting, pay for new ones.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw016.jpg)
Removing the glass covers was really easy. I put the housings into the oven and let them bake at 250°F for ~15 minutes. Open a window & run the vent fan; these things got smoky & stinky!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw013.jpg)
Start with the low beams in the little slot where the cover's locating leg rests.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw019.jpg)
The low beams are really easy. The housing deflects a little, so you can easily get a screwdriver in there. Pry with it, but DO NOT TWIST. Work it into the adhesive in 5-6 places before you really pry too hard. Break it loose in a bunch of small spots & then pop it out.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw020.jpg)
The high beams are done the same way, but they are a little more of a pain. Since the housing is metal, you have to be careful since it doesn't really deflect. Find one of the little notches in the outer lip & start there. Work your way around, jamming the screwdriver in to break it loose in a number of spots.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw021.jpg)
Wear gloves or use an oven mitt. You want to have comfortable grip on these when you work on them. To get the old glue out, re-heat the parts with it on them & scrape it off with the screwdriver.
That's all I have for now. The coming weekend will probably be pretty busy with holiday stuff, so this is going on the back-burner for a little while. Merry Christmas & happy holidays to you E30 guys!
-
Excellent write-up, I will be following your progress!
Thanks for sharing.
-
Is there a thread that you accumulated the part numbers? If not, can you post them here. I'd be interested in duplicating the efforts, as I have some cash. I've been getting really tired of how poor the original lights are.
-
I got the new headlight / projector parts from http://www.theretrofitsource.com. I am still in the process of designing the adapter, and I'll work on being able to supply people with them once I have a prototype with perfect fit / sealing.
-
So do you already have ballasts? Or did you buy them from the site you provided?
Are you going to run 35w or 55w bulbs? I'm not familiar with projectors, so I'm not sure which should be used. I'm assuming 55w is for highs?
-
Alrighty, I made some progress on this today. The housings have been trimmed down and I'll be figuring out exactly how I want to build an adapter plate.
First, I trimmed out a bunch of the crap inside with my trusty 1" end mill. The cut-off wheel I used next had a rather large arbor and I needed to get this crap out of the way first.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw022.jpg)
I did most of the trimming with a cut-off wheel in the mill. The housing was mounted face-down on the rotary table and manually spun.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw023.jpg)
I made a few passes to get things close to the final dimensions. The cut-off wheel is pretty nifty and didn't cause any chipping.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw024.jpg)
The last 0.015" was knocked off with a 6-flute 1" end mill at 1200RPM.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw025.jpg)
So, here they are. With this done, I can now nail down the adapter design.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw026.jpg)
-
So do you already have ballasts? Or did you buy them from the site you provided?
Are you going to run 35w or 55w bulbs? I'm not familiar with projectors, so I'm not sure which should be used. I'm assuming 55w is for highs?
Yeah, I have some old DDM slim ballasts that I am using with my current H1 Xenon bulbs. I will be running 35W bulbs/ballasts. 55W is completely unnecessary and does nothing other than piss off other drivers.
-
Did you bake the sealed beams just to clean the reflectors, or are you planning to do something with them?
-
I removed the glass in order to get accurate measurements of some parts of the housings, and so I could clamp them to the rotary table. The glass is pitted to hell anyway, so I w ill be putting some acrylic replacement covers on too.
Got any suggestions on adhesives to reinstall the covers with?
-
Alrighty, I have given this some more thought and I now know how I plan to tackle this.
There will not be a cut-out for the city light bulb. I have been using the same ones for close to 7 years now; the replacement interval is super long. I would much rather have a hermetic seal that I am confident in than easy access to a part that almost never needs replacing.
The plate will be secured to the housing via two screw blocks and Permatex Ultra Black RTV. The screw blocks are in there because I just don't trust adhesives that see water/salt water, heat cycling & have something as important as headlights depending on them. Also, using a softer sealant like RTV means that, should you need to replace the city light bulb, these plates will just need some unscrewing and a little pulling, and then $2 worth of RTV to reassemble.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw027.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw028.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw029.jpg)
The big blue boot thing will be a project all of its own. I cannot find any off the shelf parts that can fit over a 5" perimeter, so I will make the necessary molding plugs/cavities on a wood lathe, seal them with some Shellac & then cast the parts from some sort of urethane-rubber or silicone compound that can take heat & exposure to car fluids.
Do it right, or don't bother, I say!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw030.jpg)
-
Ok boys & girls, time for another update. I mocked-up a prototype adapter plate (it is usable, but there are some design changes I want to make now that I have the part in my hands).
My employer was throwing away some old manufacturing fixtures a couple of years ago, and I offered to take them off of their hands instead. These things were made with 120lbs (each!) of machined aluminum, in various bar & plate forms. So, needless to say, I have had close to 100lbs of aluminum plate laying around for years, waiting for me to do something with it. Anyway, I found a suitable piece & needed to trim it down for the adapter plate. I started with a bandsaw, but it was way too slow.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw031.jpg)
So I stuck it in a vise and milled it into shape!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw032.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw033.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw034.jpg)
Next, I needed to get the rotary table centered. This little dial gadget is super handy! Put it in a 1/4" collet, set the spindle to ~100RPM and adjust the X/Y position until the needle stops wobbling.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw035.jpg)
I got down to business & made all of the back-side cuts. The 3 larger holes in the row were used to set the center position of the work piece so that all of the various rounds could be cut.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw036.jpg)
Here it is, half-way done with the top-side operations. It didn't take much work since I had cut the inner profile perimeter already. Once I knocked ~.6" off of the inside, the middle bit fell right out!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw037.jpg)
The crappiest part of this was cutting the outer perimeter. It involved a delicate dance of milling, stopping to remove one bolt, milling, stopping to put it back, etc x 4. By the end, it was not holding the part securely. So, I cut my losses (no pun) and chucked it up on the lathe to clean it up.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw038.jpg)
All cleaned up, although it got taken down to 4.99" instead of the intended 5". Whatever, it is a prototype.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw039.jpg)
So, here is one. Whoever says you NEED a CNC mill is telling lies. With some effort, you can design most parts to be made manually. Hell, the digital position readout unit on the mill crapped out last year, and I ran this part without any electronic positioning at all. As long as you know what "backlash" is, you'll be fine. All you need is the ability to add & subtract in your head, and a decent dimensioned drawing. Oh, and calipers are a good idea, too!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw040.jpg)
So, how did it fit?
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw041.jpg)
Well, it fit almost perfectly. Snug, with zero slop (much to my surprise). It does rotate ~0.5 degree thanks to an "oops" in the cutout for the city light, but radially there is no movement at all.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw042.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw043.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw044.jpg)
I will be taking the lessons learned here & making two more that should come out better. I did most cuts in a single pass, which is always a recipe for rough milled surfaces.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw045.jpg)
I will probably also mill a counterbore for the two mounting screws to get them flush (the heads would hit the FX-R projector assembly otherwise). I didn't account for the fact that a countersinking bit wouldn't fit here! I also plan to thin the outer ring by ~3mm (off of the outside) to get better clearance with the headlight bracket (it fits, but the rubber boot I plan to make would be really tight in there with this OD).
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw046.jpg)
I also managed to get off by a couple of handle-turns down in the cut-out for the bi-xenon solenoid, and I forgot that the surface I was accidentally cutting through was a sealing surface.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw047.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw048.jpg)
Up by the city light, I started out being off by half of a cutter diameter in the radius. It's a common rookie mistake (and I'm a rookie at machining).
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw049.jpg)
Lastly, there's a nibble in the outer perimeter from when I was cutting it out & the clamping wasn't quite adequate.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw050.jpg)
So, the next ones will be a lot cleaner. I'll probably do all cuts in 3 passes (-0.020", -0.005", 0.000"), spend more time with some of the centering setup, counterbore the 2 mounting holes, rough-cut the perimeter & finish it up on the lathe, and reduce the outer diameter by ~1/4". Yeah, it is probably overkill nit-picking this stuff. But, when you have the tools for it.....
-
I appreciate the amount of work and attention to detail you put into your projects and write-ups. I enjoy them very much.
Looking forward to watching you progress on this endeavor!
-
had to ventilate the apartment like crazy before my fiancee got home & discovered that I had been putting car parts in the oven again lol)
priceless :D
I plan to stick the plastic low beam housings onto my lathe
As in personally owned, or one you have access to???
-
just to be clear... the adapter is going to mate with the plastic housing with only epoxy/sealant? or are there going to be any screws?
-
Wow man. Thats dedication right there... I wish I could watch the actual process!
Sign me up for a pair of adapters if you decide to make a few.
-
How's this workin out?
-
Well, I still haven't gotten much done on this. A recent job change has me flying to Seattle every Sunday night & then back on monday night. On top of that, I have been having lots of rock climbing adventures on weekends since the weather has dried out. I need to find a saturday to dedicate solely to machining the adapter plates, and get to work on casting the weather seals.
Also, I am not 100% sure if I am keeping the car. I have a thread going in the Engine section about some recent timing chain issues. More and more, the car is starting to be less and less practical for my needs. It kills me to think about not being a member of the E30 community anymore and not having car projects, but at the same time I can't take the car on any sort of long drive without worrying the entire time. If I can find a reputable engine builder (or maybe go with a Metric Mechanic motor) and also have the tranny/diff overhauled, I think that the car might meet my worry-free reliability desires. We'll see. Until I get that sorted out, the headlight project is on hold!
-
Stay strong! Perhaps its time for a beater/daily?
-
Worry not, the car is getting a fresh motor, and I have every intention of finishing the lighting project!
My fiancee has been looking to replace her 2003 Civic. It still runs fine, so we might just keep it as the beater vehicle. Problem: solved.
-
hallelujah, cant wait for more progress
-
Yeah, me too. Hell, I just want a weekend where I have time to work on this at all now! Between wedding plans & business travel, I am way too short on time!
-
Congrats on the marriage dealio ;)
Hopefully she supports the hobby!!
-
Congrats on the marriage dealio ;)
Hopefully she supports the hobby!!
Haha, well "support" isn't necessarily the word. While the lack of AC and slightly noisy ride do annoy her a little, the has warmed up to the car over the last 6 years. She actually has fun when I take corners a little fast & stuff, and thinks that it is much safer than her Civic. She also knows that I enjoy pouring time and money into it, so in that respect she supports me. Besides...I get a MM motor, she has an excuse to go buy some silly purse or shoes or something lol. I definitely have the more expensive hobby though!
-
Haha, well "support" isn't necessarily the word. While the lack of AC and slightly noisy ride do annoy her a little, the has warmed up to the car over the last 6 years. She actually has fun when I take corners a little fast & stuff, and thinks that it is much safer than her Civic. She also knows that I enjoy pouring time and money into it, so in that respect she supports me. Besides...I get a MM motor, she has an excuse to go buy some silly purse or shoes or something lol. I definitely have the more expensive hobby though!
LOL. Well... that certainly is better than nothing! She doesn't drive it?
I do agree though, this hobby is incredibly expensive... I started doing track events 2yrs ago ago and the amount of money I've spent could have gone to better things but man... its like crack!
-
I have been teaching her to drive a stick, but her interest is a little low and I usually prefer to go do more fun stuff than give lessons. Back in college, I regularly taught girls to drive stick in the E30 since it was an easy way to break the ice and turn a drive into a date. It was also a quick way to weed out the girls that would freak out from a little pressure lol. I've never been a fan of drama queens!
-
LOL!! I just got around to reading your reply. I have yet to test the "spaciousness" of the interior but I'm gonna try your tactic lure them in by teaching them hahaha. I've been single for over a year now I really gotta get back in the sack!
-
LOL!! I just got around to reading your reply. I have yet to test the "spaciousness" of the interior but I'm gonna try your tactic lure them in by teaching them hahaha. I've been single for over a year now I really gotta get back in the sack!
haha our rides have a way of keepin our attention on them and not our game lol. hang in there. im in the same boat, just waitin for the right one to come along.
-
OK, time for an update! I lost ~7 months thanks to having the original engine blow and me deciding to get a fully built Metric Mechanic 2.1L M42, and getting married + honeymoon, etc. Busy year!
I have dragged my ass for so long on this that there is even a new version of the FX-R projectors out now. I have version 1.1 units presently, and now there is a version 3.0 with an improved lens and beam pattern. So I ordered some 3.0 projectors and will see if they can still fit. They are slightly smaller overall, so I don't see an issue there.
I mocked-up an adapter plate from foam core board to try to get things to fit. The FX-R 3.0 projectors are a little too complicated (geometrically) for me to bother trying to make an accurate model of them with calipers. It was easier just to go arts-and-crafts style instead. Not too bad!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw051.jpg)
The thickness of the foam core board is a little more than what I will need, so the actual bracket will hold the projector a little closer.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw052.jpg)
Here is the adapter bracket mock-up.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw053.jpg)
I went through a number of iterations. Getting the right positioning of the 4 mounting holes was a real pain. They are not symmetric about the projector center in one direction, at least as far as I can tell. That took me a few iterations to figure out!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw058.jpg)
The projector adapter plate I will make is going to look like this.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw056.jpg)
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw057.jpg)
Making the bracket is a little complicated since I am doing it all on a manual mill (Bridgeport Series I). I want to apply the lessons I learned while making the first prototype bracket many months ago to get a really clean result. It requires me to machine some additional fixturing to get things done accurately on the rotary table. The fixture will let me clamp the work piece from the outside, and later from the inside once I knock the center portion out and need to cut out the perimeter. The transparent disc seen in the CAD model is the work piece blank.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw059.jpg)
I got the fixturing plate done this weekend, and surfaced/honed the work pieces to the desired 0.689" (17.5mm). The surfacing was done on a lathe, and I used a 1000 grit water stone hone to knock off the burrs and get things flat.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw054.jpg)
Here's a closer shot of the fixture. The 3 "extra" holes are there because these discs were picked up at a local aluminum remnant/scrap center. $3.50/lb for 6061 is a lot better than what I would pay if I had the local supply house cut me pieces from raw stock. I got lucky and the scrap place had exactly what I needed!
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw055.jpg)
I should be starting on the brackets themselves in the next week or two.
-
looks pretty legit
-
Man am I happy I popped into this thread... Amazing work dude.
-
So I am about 60% done machining one of the two adapter brackets. I spent ~3 hours on Sunday evening working on it. Although it does not affect functionality in ANY way, I did make one "oops" lol. Somehow I added things incorrectly in my head and set the radius of a semi-circular cut 0.100" too far out lol. No biggie though (thankfully)! I have some pictures at home that I'll post when I am back from my business trip to Austin. I am hoping to get the first one finished up this weekend so I can trial-fit it and see if any design changes need to be made.
-
You gotta love SW
Great work!
-
So I am about 60% done machining one of the two adapter brackets. I spent ~3 hours on Sunday evening working on it. Although it does not affect functionality in ANY way, I did make one "oops" lol. Somehow I added things incorrectly in my head and set the radius of a semi-circular cut 0.100" too far out lol. No biggie though (thankfully)! I have some pictures at home that I'll post when I am back from my business trip to Austin. I am hoping to get the first one finished up this weekend so I can trial-fit it and see if any design changes need to be made.
Sounds good! I'll be checking back more often since I know you're actively working on this... I can't even begin to tell you how happy I am to see a retrofit being made.
I linked to your thread over on r3v... Would rather support a fellow member that genuinely cares about these cars!
-
I have been waiting for a reason to change out my sealed beams. I look forward to the completion of this project!
And like previously stated. Good work!
-
How is it coming along buddy?
-
Well, the car is running again. So that is good. My wife and I bought a house, so we have some light renovation to do before moving in. Then the garage will be emptied of furniture and it'll be my proper man cave. I picked up a Craftsman 309 piece tool set, Craftsman click type torque wrenches and various sockets/wrenches that the set didn't include, so soon enough I'll have a place of my own for car silliness. I am open to recommendations for a good low-profile floor jack that won't break the bank either.
I am itching to get back on this headlight project. Anyone work in a machine shop that could hook me up with some discounted CNC action for the adapter plates?
-
I've read good things about the harbor freight low profile jacks...the tire shop down the street me has like 10 of them too. Try posting the CNC request over on r3vlimited.com thread, much more traffic
-
Yeah, a lot of people have recommended the HF jacks. It sounds like they do wear out quickly, mostly the seals in the hydraulic piston. It's tough...they are cheap enough that I could probably just replace them 5 times for the cost of a really good one...but at the same time the idea of buying something with the intent of throwing it away seems wrong lol.
I'll ask around on r3v. It would be a lot of fun to run these pieces myself, but at the same time I know I'd get better parts from a pro.
-
Finally, some progress pics. Round two of SLS prototypes has worked out well, and I am ready to get these suckers made up in metal. The fit is nearly perfect. At this point, inconsistencies in the castings of the FX-R projectors cause more variance in things than the adapters, so it's time to call it "good enough".
One big item I wanted to make sure of was the clearance between the projector lens and the headlight cover. To do this, I used some painter's putty since it doesn't contain abrasives.
*squish*
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw065.jpg)
The thinnest part is 1.5mm, which is what was predicted from my measurements of the parts.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw066.jpg)
There is also 0.5-1.0mm of clearance between the lens retainer ring and the decorative chrome "smiley" cover. It is a bit warped, probably from decades of heat cycling, so it may take a little tweaking when I glue everything into place eventually.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw060.jpg)
Here is the projector attached to the 2nd generation SLS (3D print) prototype.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw061.jpg)
"Inside" of the adapter.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw062.jpg)
"Outside" of the adapter.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw063.jpg)
But bmwman, isn't that thing like, overly complex? What's with all the intricate nonsense? Well, it so happens that the price the 3D print house charges is directly proportional to the actual volume of the part. So, I modeled my adapter and then cored the hell out of it. They say that they can do a minimum wall thickness of 0.7mm, so I went with 1.4mm since you just aren't going to get consistent 3D print results when you are riding the limits. Warp, sag and undesired holes become issues when you push the wall thickness limit.
A solid one would have cost $37, and these were $23. Not bad for an extra 20 minutes of work.
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw064.jpg)
These SLS parts are super strong. I didn't have an M4x0.7 tap handy, so I just drove the machine screws right into it. The part took the threads fine without splitting or anything. They are flexible and strong (surprisingly so). The material is nylon (sintered powder).
My next steps are to make a couple of final tweaks and then proceed to make (or maybe have a fab shop do it) the aluminum adapters. From there, I will be buying new bucket adjuster screws since the ones on these were shot, and then assembling + aiming the projectors. Since they are NOT sealed, I will be looking at my clearances in the headlight brackets and seeing about developing rubber boots to keep water and dust out of them. Worst case, I just use some aluminum tape to close things up, but I think that I can come up with something more OEM looking. I'll post up a concept / cartoon of what I am thinking of in a day or so.
-
Looks fantastic! I am sure you can probably fill any voids with epoxy if you are worried about strength.
-
Frak. That is sexy. FYI, you can go to a autozone (or whatever near you), and they should have a combo DIY gasket kit. Big sheets of cork and rubberised material. They're almost the size of A4 paper. At least something to start with. Just make sure you have some sharp exacto or craft knives to cut them easly. Def look forward to the finished product.
-
Popping in again after I saw your post on R3V about these projectors.
Its come a long way and now with 3D printers... this should bring down costs a bit. Are you still planning to make a kit of some sort?
-
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw064.jpg)
These SLS parts are super strong. I didn't have an M4x0.7 tap handy, so I just drove the machine screws right into it. The part took the threads fine without splitting or anything. They are flexible and strong (surprisingly so). The material is nylon (sintered powder).
I saw my first 3D printer in action a few months ago. They told me when the parts are finished they wipe them with, or submerge them, in acetone to close the pores up and give it a smooth finish. I mention this because it looks like the parts have a "rough" texture and some dirt on the surface. Did they mention anything like that to you?
-
(http://bmw.e30tuner.com/images/my318is/pic/fxrlights/bmw064.jpg)
These SLS parts are super strong. I didn't have an M4x0.7 tap handy, so I just drove the machine screws right into it. The part took the threads fine without splitting or anything. They are flexible and strong (surprisingly so). The material is nylon (sintered powder).
I saw my first 3D printer in action a few months ago. They told me when the parts are finished they wipe them with, or submerge them, in acetone to close the pores up and give it a smooth finish. I mention this because it looks like the parts have a "rough" texture and some dirt on the surface. Did they mention anything like that to you?
They do have a "smooth" option, but I didn't care to pay extra for it. These are ONLY for test fitting things. Once I am 100% satisfied with the fit and alignment, the actual brackets are going to be machined out of aluminum. None of the printable plastics can handle the possible temperatures with 35W+ bulbs in an already-hot under-hood environment, at least not in my opinion.
-
Oh, gotcha. Aluminum will be much better.
Carry on. 8)
-
Carrying on I am. The final design tweaks are worked into the CAD model and I am going to see about having the real articles machined. As of now, I am going to try milling them myself since I have a fairly large pile of 7075-T6 material laying around. I tweaked the design a little so that all of the cuts can be made on the manual mill without too much trouble. That will probably happen in a couple of weeks.