M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Electrical => Topic started by: BMW_sauberf106 on November 03, 2006, 12:28:35 AM
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my car stalled on the freeway while in heavy traffic about the 2 months ago, and I couldnt get it to restart ever since. I did notice a slight hesitation 20mins. prior to the stall.
so far I know that I am getting fuel and ignition. too much fuel may be because its flooding. I have check the timing and chaged all the sensors and relays from my complete spare motor and no improvement.
I havent done a compression test yet, i will this weekend but I thought I would ask you guys for suggestions until then.
any help is greatly appriciated.
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I know you said you were getting fuel but it sounds similar to when my fuel pump failed. Try starting the car with someone hitting something hard against the right-hand side bottom of the fuel tank at the same time.
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What kind of testing did you do to know you were getting fuel and spark?
Has the motor ever been torn into before?
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It sounds like fuel pump to me also .
1) take the rear seat out
2)turn key to on but do not start .
3) you should hear the pump making some noise ,if not check with voltmeter for 12-13 volts at pump.
same thing happened to me . I had voltage at the pump. then I ran wire direct from the battery to the pump and still no pumpy pumpy so I knew that the pump was probably gone . put a new pump in and started right up.
good luck:)
I forgot to mention the relay under the hood .when you turn the key on the relay should click.
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well I didnt check the fuel pressure with a gauge yet because it is getting flooded and spark plugs are getting soakedand disconnected a return line and there seems to be good enough amount of fuel. as for spark I visually checked each plugs and they are getting good spark.
the main and fuel pump relays are all clicking.
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You checked the (CPS) crank postition sensor ?
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crank position sensor - there are two. check both.
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as for spark I visually checked each plugs and they are getting good spark.
the main and fuel pump relays are all clicking.
i would just double check spark by using a screwdriver and grounding it out to the valve cover or actually buy a spark plug tester.
second, just because a spark plug clicks doesnt mean its always working properly. it could be an intermitent problem and sometimes it clicks and sometimes it doesnt. easiest way to check that is hit or shake a relay.
i would also verify the pump is working and then move on to the CPS.
all easy steps without getting to deep into something and not have any clue as to what your doing.
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I have tested for spark by grounding it and cranked long enough to see that it had good spark.
tested the relay applying power and used multi-meter to make sure they are working.
pulled out the pump yesterday and applied power and it is pumping just fine.
I assume CPS is the xrank position sensor? I did not test the cps yet due to the fact that I dont have the specs for it, same for the cam angle sensor.
I am about the check the compression right now, I'll let you guys know the result.
thanks
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I love a good mystery :D
did you do a code check ??
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just did a compression check and all cylinders are dead even.
when the car first stopped it did not through any code(144 i believe)
and last week after messing around with relay wiring it threw coolant temp sensor code, so I swapped it out and now its cleared but still no start.
now I know its electrical for sure:( :confused:
thanks
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Did you check all grounds to the engine? I had a past experience where the electrical connector would slowly corrode over time and it was a real pain to diagnose since it was intermittent.
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problem solved.
The car has been running very good for 2 weeks so far 100miles a day. even made it out to a track day at button willow a day after I got it running.
Stupid me...I checked the mechanical timing but didnt check the ignition timing.
The half of woodruff key was broken into little pieces on the crank angle pulley side but lucky half of crank gear pulley side was intact, which saved my motor.
The cause of woodruff key failure I believe was using a impact gun to tighten the main bolt...i know i know I will never do that again
thanks everyone for you help!
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The cause of woodruff key failure I believe was using a impact gun to tighten the main bolt...i know i know I will never do that again
thanks everyone for you help!
You must have one powerful gun. I better not try that with my Ingersoll Rand.
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yeah, I have IR titanium
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problem solved.
The car has been running very good for 2 weeks so far 100miles a day. even made it out to a track day at button willow a day after I got it running.
Stupid me...I checked the mechanical timing but didnt check the ignition timing.
The half of woodruff key was broken into little pieces on the crank angle pulley side but lucky half of crank gear pulley side was intact, which saved my motor.
The cause of woodruff key failure I believe was using a impact gun to tighten the main bolt...i know i know I will never do that again
thanks everyone for you help!
Old post, but I think I have a similar issue. I am not a mechanic. 1st shop replaced catalytic converter ($200) close to where I was standed; did not help. My 'regular mechanic' now wants to replace alternator ($475). Already had to tow it in twice too ($65 per tow...). Thoughts?
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Old post, but I think I have a similar issue. I am not a mechanic. 1st shop replaced catalytic converter ($200) close to where I was standed; did not help. My 'regular mechanic' now wants to replace alternator ($475). Already had to tow it in twice too ($65 per tow...). Thoughts?
I missed your post for some reason...it's not coming up in the 'new posts' section.
I'd say that your mechanic is just throwing parts at your problem to make it go away...I'm not saying he's a bad mechanic...but it's hard to keep customers happy with old cars like these.
How handy are you with tools? You can pull the alternator and get it tested at Advance Auto or Pep Boys for free. They don't go bad very often.
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New here, I have a 96 318 convertable and my son has an 85 318.
We have a problem with the 85 that quits and seems to have fuel and spark, wont start untill after several hours and up and running again. Thinking crank sensors, understanding there may be two, where are they and how do I test these sensors?
Thanks Mike
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The 85's have the m10 in them with ditributor. No crank sensor in those. I have had the same problem in my 84. You need to check to make sure you have good REGULAR spark via a timing light.
Howver, My car turned out to be the wiring to the coolant temp sensor on the top of the motor in the front where the two radiator hoses connect to the block.