M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: stillmatick on June 08, 2011, 04:31:39 AM
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Just order new radiator plus e36 colder temp switch and wondering what are some good electric fan I should get?
also I'm stilling using my a/c.
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Spal seems to be the best aftermarket brand but not the cheapest. I have one and it is awesome. I went with 14" to replace stock AUX fan, I still use AC and removed fan clutch. If you go with 16", even better.
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Spal seems to be the best aftermarket brand but not the cheapest. I have one and it is awesome. I went with 14" to replace stock AUX fan, I still use AC and removed fan clutch. If you go with 16", even better.
what 14in type fan you are using?? pusher or puller/curve or flat blade??
If I do go with 16inch should I get a curve or straight puller fan?
Also do you have pictures on how to connect the spal fan??
The 14in spal fan cost the same as 16in spal fan so I probably go with 16inch.
http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-69-14-spal-14-high-performance-curved-blade-fan.aspx
http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-73-14-spal-16-high-performance-curved-blade-fan.aspx
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If you mount it where aux fan is, then you need a pusher. If you place it between radiator and engine, you need a puller. With 16 inch you might need to do something to modify installation or make brakets. I just have mine zip tied. I believe I have the curve blades. In the end it is about how much cfm you want to push and how quiet you want it. There website was cool determining the model and then I went on ebay. The seller was from same city as manufacturer so might be same thing but got a better price. I just used factory wiring and resistor. I just spliced the wires. My profile thread has pictures of install.
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im using a volvo 850 fan
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If you mount it where aux fan is, then you need a pusher. If you place it between radiator and engine, you need a puller. With 16 inch you might need to do something to modify installation or make brakets. I just have mine zip tied. I believe I have the curve blades. In the end it is about how much cfm you want to push and how quiet you want it. There website was cool determining the model and then I went on ebay. The seller was from same city as manufacturer so might be same thing but got a better price. I just used factory wiring and resistor. I just spliced the wires. My profile thread has pictures of install.
well I decide to go with spal pusher curve fan to replace the aux fan and wondering will a 16inch fit??? Or should I do what you did??14inch
do I get regular fan or slim??
this is the one I want to get
http://www.jaycorptech.com/pc-73-14-spal-16-high-performance-curved-blade-fan.aspx
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16" fits but you might have to trim something if I can remember. Nothing major as many use this size fan when they convert to m/s50. You can go regular or slim. I would have to look up which model I got.
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well i bought the 16inch pusher fan plus uni bracket mount and spal shroud.
now I need info on how hooking it to aux connection,do i just cut the old aux fan wire then tap it into the new spal fan?
monty23psk can you take a closer pictures on how to set up aux wires to spal fan please.
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I will check tonight if I have better pictures.
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I will check tonight if I have better pictures.
thx:)
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monty23psk did you bump up the fuses for hi/lo?
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No, kept everything stock, didnt even change the fuses out. But I did change out the resistor as that went bad a few months before on the stock aux fan before the fan just died and I went with this swap. Later on, the diode in the fuse box died and I had to replaced that. Other than that, it got a new temp switch and cooling sytem was bleed.
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pics pics pics???
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monty23psk,how can i test the hi and lo?? because when i push the a/c button aux turn on but never seen the high turn on before.
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Jumper wire with alligator clips. Go to the radiator temp swich and jump 2 of the 3 pins on the wiring plug, not the sensor. One is 12v and the other 2 or the signal for high and low. If you look closely you can get pin numbers and review the ETM.
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monty,do i keep this piece including the little square box then connect it straight to spal fan??? what color is power and ground??
(http://i53.tinypic.com/14138uv.jpg)
also what is the easy way to remove front aux fan and how??
gonna tackle this tomorrow.
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Is that picture a OEM fan? If so, yes, you keep the box as that is the low speed resistor. That causes the speed to run on low when temp switch on the first mode or when AC is on. You will splice the wires from the new fan to the the pigtail of the old. So everything in red you cut and reuse.
Some people try to remove it via the front and it might be possible but you need to remove all the bumpers and trim. I removed the radiator, loosen condensor to get the fan in and out. Much easier in my opinion and the correct way via manuals.
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Is that picture a OEM fan? If so, yes, you keep the box as that is the low speed resistor. That causes the speed to run on low when temp switch on the first mode or when AC is on. You will splice the wires from the new fan to the the pigtail of the old. So everything in red you cut and reuse.
Some people try to remove it via the front and it might be possible but you need to remove all the bumpers and trim. I removed the radiator, loosen condensor to get the fan in and out. Much easier in my opinion and the correct way via manuals.
no this is the e30 fan
(http://i54.tinypic.com/smvkso.jpg)
I probably have to the front way because of drilling in new bracket for 16inch spal fan plus cutting the little bottom bracket off.
(http://i56.tinypic.com/205waht.jpg)
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the new version behr oem radiator is so much better than the older version.
(http://i54.tinypic.com/30crj4o.jpg)
as for the 16inch spal fan,it fit perfect!!!!! no need to drill at all,but you do have to cut the 3 small bracket.
(http://i51.tinypic.com/28hfklk.jpg)
also does the resistor suppose to get hot???
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Yes, the resistor will get hot when current is going through in the low speed.
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shit blow cold ass a/c!!!!!!
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yup, it helps when condenser is cool. the stock aux fan is ok, but the newer ones like Spal's push lots of air. I only have a 14" one. If I go with s5x swap, I might move up to 16".
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I have a noob question. the first radiator on the engine is an ac radiator? the 2nd on is the engine radiator. or is this wrong.
I would like to take off the first radiator if its just used for Air conditioning. as my air conditioning doesnt work.
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that is correct. The radiator closes to the is the radiator, the other, which is smaller and has AC lines going it, is the condensor. Only needed if you have an AC system. You can remove it. Just make sure the system has no gas.
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Should i ditch the clutch fan??My aux fan only kick on if the temp needle pass the halfway mark. As of now temp needle just stay blow halfway mark all the time.
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Well if you confirm that the fan turns on without the AC on and it works on low and high that way, then you can. I installed a lower temp switch, 80/88 to have it turn on sooner.
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Well if you confirm that the fan turns on without the AC on and it works on low and high that way, then you can. I installed a lower temp switch, 80/88 to have it turn on sooner.
i have it too,hard to decide because the clutch fan is basically new.
when does your aux fan kick on??
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With my car, low speed kicks on before half on the guage. About halfway between half and 3/4 it goes on high. I also replaced the temp guage sender after my rebuild 3 months ago as it looks like my old one was giving a bad reading and caused my engine to run at high temps for a few weeks. Small crack on head becaome of this. I noticed my radiator temp switch had gone bad and it cost me. The only issue I have, which might not be an issue, with gauge is that in stop and go traffic, it stays pretty much at noon and maybe a needle width past but while driving it drops almost closer to 1/4. I might have a stock open tstat. I did check it during the rebuild before installing it as it is only 3 years old.
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i c,to tell you the truth monty23psk I have never seen my fan kick on yet,but did jump test the high and low connection which is fine. Also my resistor make funny spark noise like when you connect the jumper cable to another battery,probably a loose resistor connection though.
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if you have the 80/88 switch the fan should be on low at least when gauge is halfway. If it turns on with AC then resistor and diode are ok. Maby your new switch is faulty or the wiring is not making good contact with the switch. Lastly if your tstat is not allowing coolant to flow to radiator on that side, the temp switch will never get hot. You can test the switch with water in a boiling pan to make sure it switches depending on water temp.
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just read the thread and looking to ditch my aux fan. i already ditched the clutch fan running a lower temp switch and water wetter also running new temp gauge sender. the car runs pretty cool but hits about halfway sitting traffic. i would love to put a 14" in the front where the aux fan used to be and a 16" puller behind. i was wondering how the wiring would be on that. i would like the aux to turn on with the low temp and have a separate switch which i can control for the puller 16" is that possible?
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anyone?
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Well you can use the aux fan wiring to control the 14" like I do. Basically works like stock just pushes more air. Regarding the 16" puller, can you try to wire it to the same wiring but that will probably overheat relays and fuses. I would suggest you just run 12v to it from a source, and add switch.
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Well you can use the aux fan wiring to control the 14" like I do. Basically works like stock just pushes more air. Regarding the 16" puller, can you try to wire it to the same wiring but that will probably overheat relays and fuses. I would suggest you just run 12v to it from a source, and add switch.
i was going to add a switch for the 16 inch puller. where would you suggest for the 12v source??
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In the front of the car you don't have have too many choices for 12v. You might have to pull from the existing aux fan circuit for constant 12v. Other option is from fuse box, you just have to be careful which fuse/circuit to pick from.
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Or from the junction block on the passenger firewall, where there are a couple of bolts you can loosen to put a connector on, then fuse it and thread it around to the front, which is what I did. I used the existing aux fan circuit to trip a relay whose power comes off the junction block.
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thanks for you help monty and ak but i can't understand or even figure out what you guys are talking about. i have zero experience in wiring. do you guys have pics to illustrate what you guys are talking about? thanks again for your help
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just do what monty and I did which will save you the headache.
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that is correct. The radiator closes to the is the radiator, the other, which is smaller and has AC lines going it, is the condensor. Only needed if you have an AC system. You can remove it. Just make sure the system has no gas.
^This, that stuff will blind you if it gets in your eyes, no BS.
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^This, that stuff will blind you if it gets in your eyes, no BS.
Will not blind you,if it did get into your eyes just wash it right away.
Happen to me before and I did suck up all the freon out before removing condenser.