M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Swaps, Turbos, Buildups => Topic started by: MikeDE on May 27, 2011, 05:18:30 AM
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This is copied from my R3V thread, but I will update both....any questions, please ask.
Well, the time has come. I had been keeping my eye out for a complete, running e30 318is. I never intended to buy an already-plucked M42, nor did I want an M44 regardless of condition due to the many parts I would need to make it work properly in an E30.
While I was out euro-parts scouting at a used-car handler, this was the first thing that caught my eye:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0773.jpg)
The hood was popped when I saw it so I open it up and what do I find but an M42, with a fairly new rad...
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0778.jpg)
But I thought, 'probably has a million miles on knowing the Germans...
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0776.jpg)
But too my surprise, it has only 160k km, or 100k miles.
I talked to the Schrottplatz owner, Hans, and he told me it was an Abwrackpraemie(sp?)auto, or German cash-4-clunkers. It was turned in about a yr ago. His brother Thorsen, co-owner of the Schrottplatz, wanted to part it when it came in. But Hans woulldn't allow it, being an ex-E30 M3 owner himself, he knew it's worth. We threw a battery on it, started right up and let it idle for a good 15 minutes. It's a smooth runner. I don't have a place to gut it, but that doesn't matter as a cash-4-clunkers vehicle has no papers and can never be re-reg'd or 'sold'. So Hans said it's ok for me to part it there, as he must crush the chassis afterwards.
There appears to be Koni suspension, the Weaves are in good shape, as are the ellip's. I have to remove the seats to see what they are. The brackets may also be useful. The steering wheel is MOMO, and has the horn button/centerpiece I need for a wooden MOMO that I had found a feew days before.
I plan to have it done latest by early summer, and get it to the 'Ring.
My Plans also include FK 60/40 kit & refinishing my MSW meshes:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/IMG_0746.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/IMG_3525.jpg)
Dunno what diff is in the donor yet, but I will see soon. With any luck it's LSD. The rest will be sold off as will the old M40/trans/DS/ecu/yada yada.
05/05/2011
Well, I finally got the motor back home yesterday morning. It was a PITA. I had to lount it to the stand at the Junkyard as I have no crane at home. Got it on the trailer and home safely.
Here is where it gets good. I have a 1" thick, 2+ meter long, 75cm wide plank that I use to offload stuff from the trailer. The wheels on the stand are 73cm on the inside track and about 77cm on the outside....sooooo I had about 1-1.5 cm of wheels on the ramp as i'm in front of the motor, slowly rolling it down. Very scary.
Here it is in my small, cluttered, somewhat dirty work area.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0929.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0930.jpg)
And my work area....It will be clean and organized(this weekend I hope) prior to any disassembly.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0933.jpg)
Beer, PB Blaster, and Coffee, all necessary for me when working...at home.
And a few other things OI have lying around for the Touring.
Wood MOMO, found at junkyard. Good deal. Just have to polish it a bit.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0931.jpg)
MSW, same as above.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0934.jpg)
Koni SA's. I have the full set that came off of the iS donor.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/Touring/IMG_0935.jpg)
I also have an E36 rack that will be going in when the motor is out.
More updates to come after I tidy up and start tearing down.
05/17/2001
Made a little progress today with the 1.5 hrs I had before I had to get ready for work.
Pretty much everything to this point went smoothly, except the fan clutch. It was seized on the WP so I undid the WP pulley bolts, and got the long 6mm allen bolt out like so:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0938.jpg)
Found some scary stuff along the way:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0939.jpg)
Reached my goal for today anyway by quittin' time, all ancilliaries removed and onto checking the cam sprockets and general condition of the cams/under the valve cover.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0942.jpg)
They look pretty good to me.
And the cams, sorry for the shit pics, but i'm using my old 10D and there's not too much light in my work area.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0945.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0946.jpg)
And this is how it sits now. I plan to have the Pans and timing covers off tomorrow to get a look at the thrust bearing/crankshaft and timing components.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0944.jpg)
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05/18/2011
My goal today was to get the oilpan(s), cylinder head, and timing cover off so I can get an idea of what I need to swap to the M44 timing case...but hold the phone, what is this!!??
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0952.jpg)
BAMMMM!!! Simplest explanation, this is an M44. Other explanation, the PO swapped to the M44 front case. I think it's the latter as there are no knock sensors, and no unconnected connectors. I have to check the DME# to be sure.
I'm going to try to find the PO, and try to find out how many KM's are on the timing components. If they are relatively fresh, then I will be resealing it, and installing a new tensioner & front crank seal, after I change the head gasket & profile gasket.
Gasket still seated properly, happy happy joy joy.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0950.jpg)
I will have to buy the long/skinny BMW E12 torx socket as I do not wish to remove the cams. My E12 is too fat to get in there.
05/20/2011
Pulled the timing chain guides/rails, and cylinder head this morning. I went to the dealer before hand to see if I could buy the Long E12 to remove the bolts, he said he had to go check in the back, and hoe comes out with this:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0953.jpg)
he says, "Bring it back when you're done".....sweet.
The rails/guides look to be in excellent condition and I will probably be offering them up for sale as i have already ordered new ones. The profile gasket looks new.......
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0957.jpg)
I can barely feel the wear with my finger.
Head surface on the block and head look very nice. A little carbon on the piston will come off easily with a little oven cleaner.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0954.jpg)
BMW Head gasket
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0959.jpg)
No pitting whatsoever on the profile gasket sealing area.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0958.jpg)
And here is where it goes awry. First, pull your filter BEFORE the pan, or else you get this mess:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0962.jpg)
So I decide to finish today, I will pull the oil filter housing. Right off the bat, with no warning from either bolt, the front (2) lowers break clean off, in the goddamn timing case. And I must have twisted the top front longer bolt at least 3 times before just the head broke off. I PB'd the broken sections so I can work on them next week. Need to pickup some reverse drill bits and a propane torch. I'll heat them then hit 'em with the reverse bits and removers, maybe i'll get lucky.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0963.jpg)
05/21/2011
Well, I had a few minutes today((no pics) and had to know if I would be drilling my timing case....well...
Last time, I got as far as breaking 3/6 of the oil filter housing mounting bolts. The long top bolt snapped off at the head of the bolt and the lower 2, at the timing case, or so I thought. I used a prybar, gently, and a brass drift/hammer to break the housing free. It was hung up a bit on the longer broken top bolt, as it was cocked from twisting, but broke free after a few solid whacks. As it's slowly coming off, I see that in fact the lower 2 bolts had snapped off and left me about 3/16" of thread hanging out.
The top bolt was first and initially turned by hand, when it hung up, I grabbed it with some vice-grips and out it came. I shocked the lower 2 with a punch/hammer a few times each, locked the good ol' vice-grips on them and it turned, as did the second.
I proceeded to pull the timing case, and all looks ok. I will be picking up a few parts from the dealer on Monday morning so I can proceed with reassembly, after I clean all the crap off of the oilpans, timing case, intake manifold/TB, etc. Plus, I still have to redo the input/output/selector shaft seals on the trans, the rubber bushing in the diff cover, and the guibo & CSB.
05/22/2011
Wow – that’s weird seeing the timing case without the idler sprocket.
Ha! I had the same deal with the top two oil filter housing bolts. Snapped off. Torched ‘em, PB blasted. Off with vice grips.
Jealous of the lack of pitting on your timing case and head. Nice! Maybe the timing case was swapped to the m44 piece because of the way mine was? Curious to hear what the PO’s story is.
fwiw – an E12 socket from a local parts store + standard socket extensions worked for me.
Puzzled why you’re replacing oil pump rotor?
Thanks for your help with my timing.
Anyways – Cheers! Have fun!
I am curious about the PO's story as well but I think I will never find out.
I think it was swapped from a donor motor and new guides were put in, BUT I think they used the old tensioner for some reason. It rattled a bit when I first heard it run. I also think they left the original oil filter housing on it due to the corrosion on the bolts.
I replaced the oil pump rotors and cover b/c they, like the oil pressure relief valve, idler gear, and profile gasket are a weak point on the M42/M44. They're relatively cheap at about $70 for the rotors & cover, plus a couple extra $$ for the timing case gasket. Also, I didn't have to buy an M44 case so I don't mind spending the money.
Your welcome on the help, I just thought it looked 'not right' and it bugged me, even though it was 1am and I just got home from work. After doing DSM/4G63 t-belts for so long, I understand the insanity that comes from repeated attempts at setting timing(f'ing oil pump sprocket always had me scratching my head).
I'm guessing it's a different case, but I'm not completely certain.
See above, the case is M44 but the rest of the guides, save for the M44-specific deflection rail, are the same. The oil pump rotors and cover are also interchangeable. I have the updated( I hope) oil relief valve coming as well. I will also be ordering the updated(I hope also) lower thrust bearing shell. If it is not, I will be ordering the lower-half(pan side) M50 thrust/crank bearing. The M42 and M50 block side are the same # so the pan side must fit.....I will be letting you all know what I find. I still have to pull the crank journal cap and inspect the crank for wear.
Today...
I stopped at the dealer a few days ago and picked some parts...
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0970.jpg)
From top left, oil pump/cover/coverbolts & new bolts/o-ring/gasket for the oil filter housing, then the updated oil pressure relief valve parts, and on the bottom brand-spankin new guides and tensioner. Against the wall, the E36 metal cover gasket and the timing case gasket.
Also picked up the M50 pan-side thrust bearing half....in standard size in the corresponding color.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0971.jpg)
The old bearing shows little to no wear, and the new bearing to the right.
And in the cap.....
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0972.jpg)
A little assembly lube and 43-46ft-lbs later, it's in. The assembly turns smoothly as well.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0973.jpg)
Cleaned up the block-to-timing case surface as well, and that's where I left off today.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0974.jpg)
More to come soon.....
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Wow.
I'm really glad you're doing this, as I was thinking along the exact same lines. Once I get the chassis where I want it, the motor is the next big item. My plan is very similar...same M44 front covers, same parts updates.
Thanks for posting all that. I'd be doing the same thing if only we could get a touring over here...
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I'd be doing the same thing if only we could get a touring over here...
Wait a few years....they have to be 25yrs old then you can have one brought from Germany.
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Excellent thread! I love the pictures. I spent the last 3 days stripping & reassembling my M42 (has everything off except the head...the idler sprocket blew & I decided to replace all paper gaskets with new ones + non-curing sealer). In retrospect, it would have been easier overall to pull the head since getting the timing case back on with it there is a nightmare.
Question:
What is this about a M50 thrust bearing? Is this a mod that helps improve crank life?
Advice:
1) I would highly recommend installing Helicoils / thread repair inserts in ALL tapped aluminum holes. For some reason, a large number of the threaded holes in the head/timing case/upper oil pan strip over time. It may be from over tightening + repeated thermal stress. At the least, put inserts in all of the M6x1 holes. It will be a snap with the motor completely apart.
2) Use gasket sealer with the paper gaskets. If you run synthetic oil (or even crude probably), and use dry stock paper gaskets, you will have oil weeping from every gasket line & the motor will be a mess in a couple of years (mine was before this weekend...2-3mm of sludge on almost all surfaces). Find some high-temperature, non-curing gasket sealer that is rated for use with oil/coolant. The head gasket requires special sealer, if you use any at all, but seal all other gaskets!
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Question:
What is this about a M50 thrust bearing? Is this a mod that helps improve crank life?
Advice:
1) I would highly recommend installing Helicoils / thread repair inserts in ALL tapped aluminum holes.
2) Use gasket sealer with the paper gaskets. If you run synthetic oil (or even crude probably), and use dry stock paper gaskets...The head gasket requires special sealer, if you use any at all, but seal all other gaskets!
The M50 is an M42 with 2 extra cylinders. If you look at the orig M42 upper half thrust bearing part #, it coincides with the upper-half M50 #. Does it help improve crank life?? If by crank life you mean not having the 180deg bearing prematurely eat into the crank, then ya. But really, it lightens the load on the crank/thrust bearing.
I will not be inviting trouble by doing helicoils, all of my threads were in excellent condition. I will be reassembling everything, so I don't really see an issue(knock on wood) with stripping threads.
I have a metal timing case gasket as well as the 1pc E36 metal timing case gasket/set. I don't think sealer is necessary. As for the head gasket, same thing goes, I probably won't be using a sealer. I will probably however use something on the upper oil pan gasket, especially where it sits over the timing case/block & the rear main seal housing/block joints. I will leave the lower pan dry when installing. It will be easier to clean and change on the roadside w/o the extra sealant on it. I already have an extra lower pan + gasket to keep in the car hahahaa. I will be fabbing a skid-plate but it never hurts to be prepared. I like taking the angled curbs over here in and out of the traffic circles and generally I drive my Touring hard.
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Mike - great work! I'm sub'd for the results!
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Sorry for the long wait....
Went at it yesterday and had an 'oil pump' issue http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=213067 (http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=213067) ...I had to order the skinnier pump:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1000.jpg)
And here it is installed:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_0999.jpg)
And the new cover tq'd down:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1002.jpg)
And the timing case cleaned up a bit, and tq'd to the block:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1003.jpg)
And the updated oil pressure relief valve:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1004.jpg)
This is how I compressed it to get the snap-ring:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1005.jpg)
I leaned on the towel/driver/extension to hold the spring, then jimmy'd the ring into place.
Upper Pan and pickup in place, sealed, Loctite'd, and tq'd:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1006.jpg)
Lower pan tidied up a bit:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1008.jpg)
And sealed and tq'd, along with the Oil filter housing:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1010.jpg)
That's it for today, I will try to clean the head tomorrow morning and get it bolted on this week.
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Well, it's been a few weeks since the last update...
I had gone back to the dealer to borrow the E12 again, but they lost it. Soooo I had them order one for me from BMW. A week later, here it is:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1025.jpg)
And only 29euro.
I torqued the head down in accordance with the manual, threw on the lower intake manifold, changed the upper and lower injector o-rings and the rotted fuel lines on the feed/return pipe. Installed the new guide on the oil filter side, and the old upper and lower guides while they were in excellent shape.. Separated the Header & cat pipe, and temporarily hung it on the motor to get it off of the floor. The new studs and nuts will be in tomorrow afternoon:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1044.jpg)
You may have noticed that I am missing some timing components, well, the PO made some kind of Frankenstein-mutt-bastard-timing setup on this bitch. It is an M42 timing case, I know I know, 'but it has a deflection rail instead of the time-bomb-make-whole in your wallet when it explodes Idler gear, BUT if you check realoem.com, you will see that the (Europe) E36 M42's produced from 9/93-9/95 according to the pic, have the deflection rail. This is why mine did not accept the later, thicker M44 pump, b/c it is in fact an M42 case.
Here is one issue I ran into:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1043.jpg)
On the right is the M42 guide. I ordered the M44 guide by accident. At the time I hadn't even removed the oil pump yet so I was unaware of the 'late' M42 timing case. Soooo, I ordered the Bushing/bolt/washer from the dealer, they should be in by Tuesday. Oh yeah, the bolts only come in qty's of 10!!
And I ordered a COP kit, so these go bye-bye:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1033.jpg)
Can anyone tell me, startiung from the top left and going clockwise, which cyl each lead goes to?? Thanks.
So, being fed-up with staring at that goddam motor, I turned my frustration on the Transmission.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1035.jpg)
First, I had to drain the fluid, but I have no 17mm wrench, but I have a Pipe wrench, leverage and a wheel-bolt:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1038.jpg)
A word to the wise, always undo the filler FIRST^, then thre drain:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1041.jpg)
And some new parts(among many others) I picked up from Mr. Blunt:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1047.jpg)
Except for the slave and line, I bought that from another member along with a Never installed Massive Hartge/Mtech/whatever-style dead pedal, a Whore-and-a-half to install over carpet but I'm happy with it.
The old pivot worn to a nub:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1034.jpg)
And lastly, can someone give me a part no on this pc:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1048.jpg)
I have no VIN for the car I grabbbed the motor out of and realoem has 2 different numbers and the pic doesn't coincide, thanks.
Stay tuned for more pics in the next week, My wife is taking the kids to the North Sea for about a week, so I will have some time to get some shit done. In the background above, thew yellow springs are the KW 40/40's I just picked up. I also verified that in fact I have a full set of Koni SA's to go with them, already adjusted. I also picked up a set of the Goodridge SS brake lines from Blunty as well, they will be going on this weekend possibly. If I can sell some shit, I will also be ordering the Massive Street kit for the mofo.
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I love reading your posts. It's a downright pleasure. You have no idea how happy I am about your timing case info...I've been scrounging for a new case and this is excellent info. I'm not sure about the coils, but from this thread (http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1622) the DME pins are:
24 Ignition cyl 3 BK
25 Ignition cyl 1 BK
51 Ignition cyl 4 BK
52 Ignition cyl 2 BK
As for that part, I'm not even sure what it is...the brake booster hose?
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Yeah, it's the booster hose BUT I may just use the part no for my M40 318i to order a new one.
As for the wires/pinouts, I'll check them with a simple continuity test since the harness is sitting on my workbench.
BTW, thanks Dave.
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Sell some stuff to me ...
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Is it posible to swap m44 oil pump with housing to m42 engine?
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Is it posible to swap m44 oil pump with housing to m42 engine?
By 'housing', you mean the whole timing case? If so, then yes, you can. BUT it has to be an M44 oil pump and timing case together!! As the M44 oil pump is a bit wider:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1000.jpg)
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double post...will use for the next update
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By 'housing', you mean the whole timing case? If so, then yes, you can. BUT it has to be an M44 oil pump and timing case together!! As the M44 oil pump is a bit wider
Thanks. I think I will go for it.
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As for the brake hose/valve, the booster hose that is currently on my Touring is ok, so i'll just swap the valve to the m42 unit. The current one had a 90deg angle to it.
So anyway, made a little progress after having to wait over the weekend for parts:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1052.jpg)
New studs, the come in packs of 20, f***ers.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1053.jpg)
I love the look of the new bolts, but these don;t come in packs of 20. They come in packs of 30. you BMW.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1054.jpg)
Lower intake was done last time, but I picked up a bunch of fresh clamps and secured the fuel lines, popped on the upper intake and TB.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1056.jpg)
Where I left off.
I also got the bushing for the later style tensioner guide, BUT i'm still waiting on the washer, it never got ordered.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1058.jpg)
I also ordered all new hoses for the 'mess under the intake manifold', why you ask?? Because 1) I don't have the patience to futz around making the hoses fit/not rub on anything/find vacuum issues later, and 2) I am keeping my TB heater element. We get some crazy weather here in Germany. That plus sustained Autobahn speeds in cold weather are mroe likely to cause issues. And by the aformentioned speeds, I will most likley be switching to a 4.27 so I won't be traveling faster than 130km/h(80mph) for extended periods. But nonetheless, it is one more thing that I don't want to worry about.
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I also ordered all new hoses for the 'mess under the intake manifold', why you ask?? Because 1) I don't have the patience to futz around making the hoses fit/not rub on anything/find vacuum issues later, and 2) I am keeping my TB heater element. We get some crazy weather here in Germany.
In Lithuania it was about -25 and the car was running without any problem without TB heater. The biggest problem was to heat engine so the radiator was covered and no any troubles during winter time... ;) Do you have less than -10 deg during winter?
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In Lithuania it was about -25 and the car was running without any problem without TB heater. The biggest problem was to heat engine so the radiator was covered and no any troubles during winter time... ;) Do you have less than -10 deg during winter?
Rarley does it get under -10, but the problem is also the moisture in the air, and temp changes causing condensation, that cause it to freeze. I just don't want to worry about it. And anyway, the hoses are already ordered.
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Are you planing some suspension modifications (not shocks and springs)?
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I just bought a set of new Bilstein Sports, KW 40/40's, front lower control arms/tie rods/E36 rack. I will also be picking up a Raceskids front x-brace.
I changed the rear trailing arm & subframe bushings last fall, along with the rear wheel bearings.
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if you check realoem.com, you will see that the (Europe) E36 M42's produced from 9/93-9/95 according to the pic, have the deflection rail.
my US 318ti 5/95 build M42 has this timing case, M44 lighter conrods, and piston oil squirters.
p/n for updated oil pressure relief valve please
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Better get E46 or Z3 rack, they have better ratio. ;)
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my US 318ti 5/95 build M42 has this timing case, M44 lighter conrods, and piston oil squirters.
p/n for updated oil pressure relief valve please
The plastic parts have superceded the metal ones. When you use the original part#'s, you will(should) get the updated ones, that's what I did. Just check them before you pay =0
Better get E46 or Z3 rack, they have better ratio. ;)
3.0-3.2 turns versus my leaky 4.0 turn E30 rack is an upgrade no matter how you look at it....20-25% better ratio.
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http://www.carsteering.com
make sure you get the core return label from them when you checkout, it's only $12 and they will pay you for your shitty E30 core. One of the best mods I ever did, car feels like it should've from the factory now.
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Well, it;s been a while since the last update. I've been working like a dog and no time to take pics.
Here is my work area, it's the in-laws driveway:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1065.jpg)
I pulled the M40 this morning:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1066.jpg)
The M40 is sitting on the legs of the crane, and the m42 is in the foreground:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1067.jpg)
The new crane I bought was to shallow to get all the way on, so my valence incurred some damage:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1068.jpg)
Tomorrow, I plan on pulling the E30 rack and installing the E36 rack I have sitting around. I picked up a Zionsville autosport lnkage shortening kit, and will be ordering new tie rods Monday.
The M40 exhaust doesn't fit on the M42 cat-section, soi I wll be ordering a new exhaust as well.
Till then....
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Looks great to me, that's really coming along...really progressing. Any plans for the M40?
How do the in-laws feel about the "car-nage" in their driveway?
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Looks great to me, that's really coming along...really progressing. Any plans for the M40?
How do the in-laws feel about the "car-nage" in their driveway?
Plans for the M40, I may try to sell it first, but as I understand it, the M40 and the m42 share the same block. If I really enjoy the M42, I may keep the block and do a long-term stroker.
They don't really mind as it's(I hope) a one-time thing. I have made a huge effort to keep it clean, and have only spilled a few drops of coolant while pulling the old motor.
Oh yeah, forgot to mention that the subframe bushiings I did less than a yr ago are having an issue...The subframe has shifted upwards into the chassis!! Perhaps I used too much lube to install them. Seeing as how I have a week and the driveshaft and exhaust are already out, i'm going to try to just drop it slightly at the (2) main subframe bolts, undoing the brake lines of course as I have Goodridge units to go in, and reset the bushings. I plan to then drill (2) small holes per side for some hefty self-tapping screws to 'hold' the bushings in place. I think it will be enough to take care of the problem.
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(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1084.jpg)
So I started here this morning AFTER going to the parts store to order new complete tie rods and an original catback. There is no chance in hell that the M40 catback fits the M42 cat.
Fresh FW bolts & pilot bearing:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1069.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1070.jpg)
Unfortunately, I have an unhealthy hole, in my crankshaft. It's fairly tight but not as tight as I would like. The other 7 were perfect though.
Clutch disc and PP clean and ready for reinstall. I cut the glaze from the FW & PP with a die grinder and brown disc.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1071.jpg)
My Ghetto-Motorsports Kupplung einstellung Werkzeug. It got me part of the way there. But I ended up eyeballing it, then tightening the PP just enough so the disc could still move a bit. I jimmy'd the tranny on, then gently pulled it off. I torqued the PP bolts with fresh hardware, and the trans slid in nicely.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1072.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1073.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1075.jpg)
Wiring harness and exhaust manifold on. I had to remove it for transport...on a dolly, about 7/10's of a KM from my in-laws, on a Sunday Morning. Working in Germany on Sunday gets you more dirty looks than you can imagine.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1078.jpg)
Old leaky rack out, and subframe cleaned up a bit:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1079.jpg)
Old dirty E30 rack on the rt, new old dirty E36 rack on the left:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1081.jpg)
And don't start that 'why didn't you do a Z3 rack?!' shit...3.2 is better than 4.0 on the E30 rack, a 20% difference. Plus, I have had this rack lying around for over a year and now I have a chance to put it in.
I cleaned it up a bit after I have it in the car(no pics)
Picked up a Zionsville E36 rack spacer kit from another member here in Germany. And a new giubo from Sir Blunt.
Removing the old rivets first:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1085.jpg)
Tah-dah, I didn't break anything:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1086.jpg)
All back together. It's not tightened, most of my tools are at the worksite.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1087.jpg)
To the shifter rod, old bushing was all nasty and soft, and oozing fluid:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1089.jpg)
Knocked that bitch out with a screwdriver, lubed the new one with some all-natural Bio homemade lube I whipped up then pressed it in with my good old bushing-persuader:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1090.jpg)
As I was looking at the rear shiftrail bushing, I realized that there was too much free space in there, which equals unwanted shifter slop.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1091.jpg)
SOOO, I so happened to have an old pkg of 5 min Epoxy, so I mixed that nasty stuff up:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1092.jpg)
And filled the offensively large void, rear first of course:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1093.jpg)
Yummy.....
Then I spent the rest in the front, but there wasn't much left given that the rear was so cavernous:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1094.jpg)
AND that all for today, dealer trip tomorrow as the numbnut gave me the wrong crush rings for the PS lines......aufwiedersehen.
I also ordered a 280x22mm Massive Street Kit, and Billy Sports to go with the KW springs. I will be installing the Goodridge SS lines on the rear when I drop the subframe to fix my Shifted 1yr old bushings. The fronts will be waiting for the Wilwoods.
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Nice progress!
P.S. I instaled my E36 rack with E30 steering shaft (power steering shaft). Do not understand why you doing so.
(http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/9293/img0283hj.th.jpg) (http://img233.imageshack.us/i/img0283hj.jpg/)
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Nice progress!
P.S. I instaled my E36 rack with E30 steering shaft (power steering shaft). Do not understand why you doing so.
(http://img233.imageshack.us/img233/9293/img0283hj.th.jpg) (http://img233.imageshack.us/i/img0283hj.jpg/)
Was your rack from a Z3??? Mine was from an E36 325i, the shaft I have is too long.
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Was your rack from a Z3??? Mine was from an E36 325i, the shaft I have is too long.
No, it was from E36 sedan or coupe. When I was swapping rack on E30 M3 there was the same problem as you say. So guibo was removed and centering pin modified to go directly to other shaft eind without guibo (diameter shoud be changed or centering pin cut away) so all shaft was shortened for 1 or 1,5cm.
(http://img29.imageshack.us/img29/7016/img0009ng.th.jpg) (http://img29.imageshack.us/i/img0009ng.jpg/)
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Today was my B-day so I didn;t get much done. I was up early, had breakfast with the Wife and Kids, then ran around picking up my last few parts I need for the swap. picked up the m42 catback and complete tie rods, and new crush washers from the dealer. He very kindly swapped the (2) wrong sized washers for the correct ones.
One hurdle I was worried about the last week was the Center support sleeve on the front of the driveshaft. For those of you unfamiliar with this little whore, it sits in the very front of the driveshaft and centers the trans output shaft so the giubo must only deal with rotational forces rather than also having to hold the DS straight, or so I think anyway, don't quote me. On anf off for the past week I tried beating it with a slide hammer, them this morning I took it to a local shop. He tried heating the bitch, then with the slide hammer, but only succeeded in burning the rubber out and stinking up his shop. So I took it back home.....Just a few minutes ago after the kids went to bed, I wanted to see how 'hard' the sleeve was. To my surprise, it was fairly brittle and easy to cut through. With little stroke available, I locked a Metal-cutting keyhole saw blade in a pair of vice-grips and started cutting, 10 minutes later I had this:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1095.jpg)
Then instead of taking my BFH and driving the new sleeve home, i opted for a more civilized approach:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1096.jpg)
All good in da 'hood:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1097.jpg)
I also highly recommend this mod here, to rejuvenate your sloppy hole:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1092.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1094.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1093.jpg)
It is very tight and slop-free, I can't say for how long though.
Tomorrow I plan to have the motor in and running.......
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Nice work! Especially with that hole.
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Nice work! Especially with that hole.
Thanks...I popped it in today. much less motion in the bushing but the side-to-side motion still blows, I should've ordered a delrin bushing for the front.
Anyway onto today's update:
Cleaned the rack up a bit, got the knuckle in, and aligned. The wheel sits straight and the rack is centered. New complete tie rods installed. FYI i'm using an E36 325i rack, E30 tie rods, E30 lock plates(not the best with this but they work) and Loctite Blue. For the knuckle, us-spec non-airbag w/ Zionsville E36 rack kit. A small amount of clearancing was required in the upper knuckle to stop the binding. Oh yeah, new steering giubo also. I'm gonna eyeball them when I get them wheels back on, then after a test drive i'll make adjustments.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1098.jpg)
Got some E21 mounts. I had to enlarge the holes in both the trans brace and trans to accept the M10 studs on the mounts.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1099.jpg)
No time to take pics while the motor was on the crane, but it's in...with a little help from my Father-n-law. I had to remove the pass side mount to drop it far enough to get onto the drivers side mount. I was then able to lift the motor enough by hand(still hanging from the crane of course) to slide the other mount underneath.
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1100.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1102.jpg)
Checking continuity to determine which lead goes to which coil for the COP conversion:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1103.jpg)
I got a bit further and plan to fire the bitch up tomorrow....still have to bend the steering HP hose, mount the ECU, fluids, bleed the slave cyl, yada yada.
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Well, at 4:58pm local time, she started up after 3 cranks and settled to a steady idle. I had to shut it down after 5-6 seconds b/c I only had the exhaust manifold installed. I have to make a new bracket for the cat pipe, then I will be moving to the rear. The Subframe bushings I installed less than a yr ago have shifted.
Here are some pics from today:
Coil wiring and jamming the harness back in the cover:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1105.jpg)
Done:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1106.jpg)
New accel cable:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1107.jpg)
Just before ignition:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1110.jpg)
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Doin' work son!
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updated oil pressure relief valve questions:
1. Do you think that this can be done underneath the car?
2. How much force is necessary to compress that spring? I'm a 300 lb guy ... I know if your skinny ass could compress it I could simply by leaning on it. However, since I am not pulling the engine I was thinking of using a jack.
Thoughts?
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updated oil pressure relief valve questions:
1. Do you think that this can be done underneath the car?
2. How much force is necessary to compress that spring? I'm a 300 lb guy ... I know if your skinny ass could compress it I could simply by leaning on it. However, since I am not pulling the engine I was thinking of using a jack.
Thoughts?
Not much, I think it could be easily accomplished from underneath. A jack is an excellent idea.
And now, onto the progress report, and sorry for the lack of updates and the lack of pics, I will explain...
I wanted to wait till the motor was running to tackle any other issues, like the rear subframe bushings. I put the rear upo in the air and grabbed my special bushing installer consisting of from top to bottom, an old serp belt pulley, (2) huge alum washers, M12 threaded rod, an old huge Snap-on socket.
I reset the bushings, they were out about a cm or so:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1118.jpg)
And to make sure I don't have to do this again:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1120.jpg)
Drilled a hole thru the carrier and the sleeve in the bushing, drove in what I had handy. When the time comes, it is easy enough to knock the head off and drive the thread through to remove the bushing.
Next BJ were the rear brake lines. I figured now was the best time to repolace the brake lines since I would have the subframe out anyway. I took advantage of Blunt's deal on the Goodridge SS lines. And sice they are TUV approved over here in Germany, I said 'what the hell'.
Well, I started on the right side. I cut the rubber line and used a line wrench on the hard line and a 14mm socket on the cut-off side. The line came loose easily also on the trailing arm connection. That was the easiest part for the next day and a half. Moving to the caliper line, the fltting and soft line fitting were completely siezed together. I was badly bending the line to get it loose so I said f' it. But by then it was 3pm on Friday. So I flew over to BMW and ordered ALL new hardlines for the rear, came to about 18euro. So, Saturday morning, I picked up my lines and got to work. Bent the new rear, came out very nicely:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1121.jpg)
Then installed the caliper line.
The other side went like butter and got that done in about 2hrs, yes 2hrs. It is a royal PITFA even with the subframe hanging, and brake fluid dripping on you.
Making sure the lines sat well I moved to the driveshaft and exhaust. Didn't stop to take any pics really, except these (2). I just kinda aimed the camera underneath:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1122.jpg)
I Bought new springs/bolts/nuts, and a fresh exhaust bracket(below) for the cat pipe. Don't wanna put any extra stress on the manifold.
Here is a bad shot of the new giubo, E21 mounts, exhaust bracket...
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1125.jpg)
There is a pinhole in the pipe, don't ask how that happened:rolleyes: just under the band. I have to head to my buddy's shop this Thursday to use the welder.
So after that, I hung my overpriced catback with all new rubber rings. The bands for the iS exhaust are larger than those for the m40 exhaust so I ran home to grab one that I had lying around. I ordered another from the dealer today.
Skip to Saturday at about 5pm. Got the Wife, see avatar, to act as my pedal-pumper for the clutch and brake bleeding. Then started her up. Ran her for about 20-30minutes, bled the cooling system and gave it a once over for leaks. Took it out for about 15 minutes, beating it up a bit. Brought it back to make a toe adjustment and noticed an oil leak where the upper and lower timing cover meet, just below the tensioner plug. Sooo, I said f' it, set the coolant to drain so I could mess with it in the morning.
Sunday Morning, I got up at 730am and started working. It had occured to me that I had forgotten to 'preload' the profile gasket between the timing covers when installing it. So, I pulled the COP and VC, and proceeded to loosen all the bolts in the upper cover about 1/2 turn. Using a long screwdriver, I pushed the cover down so it was flush with the VC gasket surface and tightened down the upper corner, then the same to the rt side. After it was tq'd I put some RTV Black over the area for extra insurance. That was about 830-900am. I left it alone till about 230-300pm. In the meantime, I buttoned up the rear end and made some adjustments to the front toe(still not right, i'll be getting an 'alignment', otherwise known as a toe adjustment after I do my springs/billy's/LCA's).
So I take it for another test drive, and now I see a light leak from the tensioner plug!!!! So I brought home what tools I had in my car and waited for the kids to go to bed before I looked at it.
I decided after adjusting the toe again, that I had maybe enough time to give it a shot before ending this roller-coaster of a week. I pulled the plug, cleaned the threads and sealing area on the head and applied some RTV black. Let it sit till I went to work at 5am(7+ hrs).
Got to work this morning(25km/15mi) and damn, still seeping, Muthafugginm42bullshit. BUT I can't be sure it's only the plug. I can't get it to stop seeping long enough to see if my upper/lower profile gasket squishing/rtv'ing workied oir not. Regardless, I stopped at the dealer on the way home and ordered M42 timing cover gaskets, which I believe are paper. I am currently running the 1pc M44 metal-gaskets which IIRC, some people have found leak-prone. I also ordered a new t-stat housing & gasket, O-ring, some adjuster cups for my projectors(non-smiley) I have had sitting around for a few months, and the band/hanger for the muffler.
This weekend I will be pulling the covers, thoroughly cleaning them, and using the paper gaskets with RTV Black all-around. As for the tensioner plug, I will be pulling that AND the tensioner. Cleaning the threads on the head and plug, RTV again and I will be trying a rubber O-ring(with RTV of course) instead of the metal crush washer. I will also be inspecting/resurfacing the sealing surfaces on the head and plug/bolt.
I will let you all know what happens.
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FRI:
Update on the leak:
After work I went right to work on it. I have the timing covers off and cleaned up, same goes for the timing case. I found that I have a stripped M8 thread in the timing case, for the upper most bolt on the lower timing cover, exhaust side. I have to pick up a helicoil tonight after the kids go to bed.
I'll have some pics tomorrow....
SAT:
Picking up where I left off Friday, I ran all over the place Saturday morning to find an M8 helicoil. I stopped by (3) shops but they either had none or they were too big, the other larger 'Home Depot'-like stores looked at me like I had nine heads when I asked them if they had Helicoils. Well actually I had to explain what they were first. Anywhere that woukld actually have them are specialty places here in Germany, so they were all closed on Saturday.
So when I finally got into it after lunch, I chased the threads with an M8 tap. I managed to clean out some of the junk in the hole. I tried an M8 from what I think was from a rear swaybar link. A little longer to hit the threads deeper in the hole. I dunno whether it was the different bolt or what, but I got it to hold the torque of 120in/lbs or whatever the Bentley said.
Here is everything torn down and cleaned up:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1136.jpg)
Getting ready to start RTV'ing and reassembling:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1135.jpg)
Cases torqued down and sealed(I hope):
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1137.jpg)
New t-stat housing sealed up:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1139.jpg)
And everything back together:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1142.jpg)
I just have to fill it with Coolant and bleed it tomorrow, then we'll see if it's sealed up this time.
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It APPEARS to be sealed this time, and there is no longer any leak from the tensoiner plug either. The residue on there was most likely the seepage from the upper timing cover's lower-most bolt.
Next installment will be Brakes & Suspension. Then onto the rest of the little projects that I have planned like Electric puller fan w/ stock wiring(lo & hi speed), cleaning the engine bay, tucking the wires on the drivers side (if I ever find a good brilliantrot fender), replacing the pad on the inside of the hood with some other insulation, heat shield for the exhaust manifold, and a detailing that it needs sooo bad, fresh(er) front sport seats, dying the interior black...the list is definitely longer but I can't remember it all right now.
Now that the engine is taken care of, I have turned my attention to a few others things that i've had lying around for a while. I bought a set of Euro non-smiley projectors from Learningcurve86 found in a yard out here. They looked very clean in the photos and I wasn't disappointed when I got them. I had a set of these on the car when I bought it but swapped them for the Smileys that were on my Seta. I decided that I wanted the projectors back, so here they are:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1154.jpg)
I painted the trim rings black and polished the high's a bit just to remove the film on them. And yes, my hood is still misaligned.
I also wanted to throw in a set of black brake ducts just to see how it looks:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1156.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1148.jpg)
I also started sanding my MSW mesh's, but had no more desire to do so after 10 minutes so i'll have to jump on those another day.
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Where are the updates on this thread ... It's been four days since your last post!
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Where are the updates on this thread ... It's been four days since your last post!
Sorry, been busy Polishing this faded bitch....I'll have pics tomorrow. I really wanted to wait till the MSW's were done but that won't be till next week or so. So, I actually gave my 'weaves a cleaning.
I cleaned the engine bay a bit too AND made some new heat insulation for the hood. I currently have the big blanket and I hate it. So I made some templates and cut some new pcs from some foil/stryofoam heating insulation. I will also be fashioning a heat shield for the exh mani in the near future. I wanted to wrap it but i'm still too worried about cracking from excessive heat, the heat shield will lower underhood temps enough.
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Keep up the good work. I'm living vicarously through your build and Monty's.
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Keep up the good work. I'm living vicarously through your build and Monty's.
Stay tuned, I just picked up more brake fluid so I can install the front SS lines. I can't take any real pics till later as no one is home help me bleed the brakes.
I finished cutting the new hood heat insulation last night, and I will be installing the heated washer jets that came off of my parts car also.
I still have to polish the taillights, and I have been hunting for some unripped sport seats. I found what appears to be a good pass. side seat in France and am awaiting better pics to be sure. I would KILL for some uber karo(318is plaid)sport seats BUT I would have to have the covers for the rear split folding seat made custom. For that, I think I would need (2) sets of normal(sedan) rear seat covers to make it happen. The Touring has altogether (6) individual pcs that make up the rear seat: (2) small sides by the pillars, (2) folding seat backs and (2) flip forward seat bottoms. The last plaid int I found was from a smoker car and was filthy, plus the yard wanted way too much.
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Isnt everyone in Europe a smoker? I love the plaid as well ... I settled for houndstooth. I had to order 3 yards from the Fatherland to go on the E21 recaros I'm replacing my sportseats with. If I was in Germany I'd give you a hand. I also bought a pressure bleeder from Pelican that works really well ... so we will see if that works!
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Got the front lines installed this morning, and my neighbor helped me bleed them this evening. As I finished bolting the wheels on it started raining, so no pics. My neighbor's a motorcycle fanatic and French but I don't hold that against him, hahahaha. He had an '02 Roundie back in the day but living in Northern France it rusted out from underneath him, so he sold it. Last night, I just helped him unload a ride-on type motorcycle lift. That SOB weighs 150kg, or 330lbs. It's 30yrs old, AME I think, and still works great.
BTW, his neighbor owns the Ferienwohnung, 'Holiday Apartment', next to his that has a big garage. He's gonna ask if it's available for rent.......sweet.
Isnt everyone in Europe a smoker?
Many are but this one had a layer of old ash on everything in the interior. They weren't very tidy.
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Last weekend I did some long overdue suspension & brake work. I installed the following:
Lemforder LCA's
E30 M3 LCAB's
Front and rear swaybar bushings(PITA)
Rear swaybar endlinks
Bilstein Sports
KW 40/40 springs
And for the brakes:
Massive street kit w/ Meyle blanks(from 2002maniac)
Goodridge SS lines
The rear (4) lines were installed already when I reseated the subframe bushings, I installed the front (2) a few weeks ago b/c I had some free time.
I didn't stop to take any pics because time was short and it kills my momentum when I stop to do so.
Here it is all finished up:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1246.jpg)
And behind the Euroweaves:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/DPP_0002.jpg)
These pics were actually taken a few days afterwards. I test drove it Saturday evening after I bled the brakes and tweaked the front toe.
All was well with no odd noises....fast forward to Thursday AM. I rolled out of my parking spot to hear a noise that coincided with road-speed only. i stopped at the gas station and took a quick look underrneath to make sure it was nothing obvious and proceeded cautiously to and from work that day.
I took the wheels off after work and found this:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1249.jpg)
AND the other side:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1243.jpg)
The edge of the caliper, why only after 4 days I have no idea, was just knicking the weights:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1248.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/IMG_1244.jpg)
It's barely visible in the pics(I think my 10D is beginning to shit the bed, either that or the lens if hammered) but you may be able to see the marks on the outer edge of the caliper next to the bolt.
I ground the weights down a bit and it seems to be ok. When I mount my fresh summers next spring, I will put the weights a bit further in on the wheel.
Here is a quick pic of the 'stance' after the Billy/KW's:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/DPP_0005.jpg)
And I found a nice MT2 in the Junkyard a few days before:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/DPP_0001.jpg)
The leather feels brand new and gives the old ho' a whole new feeling.
And a few pics of the engine bay after some cleaning:
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/DPP_0003.jpg)
(http://i221.photobucket.com/albums/dd100/Bimmermike/M42_Build/DPP_0004.jpg)
On the way from Bimmerworld are my Spal 16" puller and E30 radio delete panel. I will be relocating my radio, and using a 316i HVAC/radio delete panel to mount an oil pressure & temp guages, and possibly water temp.
I plan to use an 80/88c switch but not the low/hi speed configuration. Rather I will be running the 80c trigger in the summertime and the 88c trigger in the wintertime, both on HI speed.
Till next time......
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Looking good Mike! I love the stance and the BBK looks tits!
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So how long until you cave and buy a Metric Mechanic 2.1 Rally motor? :D
-D
p.s. Fantastic work, BTW. I wish I had the skill and the time to do that sort of restoration to my daily driver 318iS.
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So how long until you cave and buy a Metric Mechanic 2.1 Rally motor? :D
-D
p.s. Fantastic work, BTW. I wish I had the skill and the time to do that sort of restoration to my daily driver 318iS.
MM 2.1....not until I come into alot of loot...and anyway, I am (passively) looking for an E28 for my next project.
BTW I did this in the mornings, for the most part, when I work late-shift.
The week before the swap, my wife took the kids on vacation so I worked whenever I had the energy.
And I took a week vacation to do the swap-activities.
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I just finished reading through this wonderful build- great work! I am super jealous of the touring. I would choose that over any other 318. I have a question though if you don't mind. I just found out my idler sprocket fell off of my timing case, taking part of the timing case with it. I want to switch out the M42 case with the nice and updated M44 timing case and lower deflection rail.
To do this, what needs to come off? So far all the timing covers are off and the A/C is removed. I am a little confused from the pictures about what is the minimum that needs to be taken off to switch those things out. My engine is still in the car and I may not be able to pull it out so easily. (Anything is possible if you believe though, right? :cool:) Anybody?
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Mike's touring is very nice, saw it in person a few weeks ago. Hoping to own one someday myself, I would most likely just swap in an M/S50 and keep it as a daily. The M42 is my tinkering vehicle.
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I just finished reading through this wonderful build- great work! I am super jealous of the touring. I would choose that over any other 318. I have a question though if you don't mind. I just found out my idler sprocket fell off of my timing case, taking part of the timing case with it. I want to switch out the M42 case with the nice and updated M44 timing case and lower deflection rail.
To do this, what needs to come off? So far all the timing covers are off and the A/C is removed. I am a little confused from the pictures about what is the minimum that needs to be taken off to switch those things out. My engine is still in the car and I may not be able to pull it out so easily. (Anything is possible if you believe though, right? :cool:) Anybody?
The oil filter housing has to come off of the m42 housing if you'll be swapping it over. Oil pans have to come off to, use rtv and loctite blue on the bolts upon reinstallation.
The M42 timing case must also be removed, after removing all other components attched to it. Timing chain must also come off.
Install a new oil pressure relief valve with the updated version if it's not already done. A new tensioner is also a must. And do a general check while everything is out. I still have a brand new M44 oil pump &if you need it, pm me. I also have a bunch of used excellent condition chain guides that I took off and replaced with new ones. Why you ask, didn't want to take this thing apart again for as long as I owned it. Pm me for pics and whatnot.
Mike's touring is very nice, saw it in person a few weeks ago. Hoping to own one someday myself, I would most likely just swap in an M/S50 and keep it as a daily. The M42 is my tinkering vehicle.
Thanks dude...I just installed my Bosch inj's and JiXer's phenolic spacer the other day. I will be adding a writeup on this thread/forum and on r3v in the next few days.
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(Just incase ya didn't see it in the Engine & Driveline subforum)
I bought the phenolic spacer from JiXer way back when, and a set of Bosch gen3 4-pintle injectors from another member whose name escapes me ATM.
Install of the Spacer was pretty straight forward. Same as R&R of the intake manifold, with the exception of having to remove the short studs in the head and replacing them with the longer studs included in the Kit that came with the spacer.
As for as having any issues with the manifold being further from the head, the only minor ones I encountered were with the manifold brackets. The one that sits on the front of the motor, I spaced about a cm away from the head with some aluminum spacers I had lying around. The rear bracket by the ICV I did nothing to except to use a Large washer on the int mani side of the bracket so it still grabbed the slot.
Now onto the important part: How well does it work?? I believe it does its' job quite well, why do I say that?? I have an infrared pyrometer I used for before and after testing. Pre-spacer after a mix of hwy/city driving, the head temp by Cyl 1 by the IM ports is about 195*F, the IM is also 195*F about 1.5-2" from the cyl head. Post-Spacer same head temp, same driving pattern/trip, and my IM was measuring 135*F, a 60*F difference.
I just did a hard hwy trip of about 25mi(60-105mph), then another 5mi to my house(30-50mph). Shot the head, 200*F, while the intake mani read 140*F, again 60*F difference.
In conclusion, it works pretty well. There is only one downside I have noticed, I'll get to that in a minute. Though it nothing at all to do with the quality of the spacer or the kit. I feel that forced induction may benefit from it more for more than one reason. One is the question of under hood temps(redhot exh manifolds/turbine housings/IC piping, etc). Anything to help battle heatsoak in FI-applications is a plus.
(*KEEP in mind that I installed the Bosch Gen3's at the same time, this may have also had an positive impact on the low-end tq*)
The Second reason it may be suited better to FI coincides with my 'downside' of this spacer. It effectively lengthens the intake manifold, substantially enough to alter the M42's high-and easy-revving nature. It trimmed my powerband noticeably. After the spacer I noticed it lost the willingness to rev easily above ~5000rpm. It felt limp up there vs. beforehand when it ripped thorugh 2nd & 3rd gear like butter up through 6000+rpm, 4th was fairly decent on the hwy as well. With FI, I don't think it would be as noticeable due to the extra power/wider powerband.
Don't get me wrong, the lowend->midrange Tq was very, very nice, it reminded me a little bit of my Seta. After 4500rpm, it wasn't the same though. It would lose a bit of steam. This topend rev-ability is why I chose the M42.
To try to counter this shift on the powerband, I tried to shift it back up there. So yesterday, I pulled the VC, and advanced the intake cam a few degrees. The washers were previously centered in the cam-gear slots. I advanced the cam to the point where the edge of the washers now lined up with the edge of the slots on the cam gears. So in other words, almost all the way.
I did some hwy pulls in 3rd & 4th gear and it was a bit better. Pulled to ~5400rpm then began to get winded. The lower end of the rev range was still nearly as torquey as before.
I plan to keep an eye out for an extra lower intake maifold section. I want to see if it's possible to shorten it slightly to maintain the original runner length when adding the spacer.
These are only my observations according to my butt-dyno. It is a fantastic product that does it's job well.
If anyone else has installed it and noticed anything, please respond here.
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Guten tag. Wie gehts? Wo wohnst in Deutschland? Kaiserslautern oder Ludwigshafen?
I have enjoyed reading your thread; very informative and interesting. I could never figure out what the name was for a wrecking yard in German until discovering your thread. Viel danke!
My only chime into your current situation with the extended runners, change in the power band and how it's trailing off can be alleviated by removing the spacer(s) which is the obvious solution, or perhaps now that you've advanced the cam and are running different injectors, maybe the next best thing is to find a dyno, install an aftermarket chip and fpr and do some simple tuning of the cam(s) and the fpr. Or perhaps another notion is that since these spacers are more suited for FI, that you need to take some steps in allowing the engine to receive a bit more air whether it be opening up the slots in the grill to allow better access or some other crafty solution.
I'm not exactly sure? Just a couple thoughts.
Tschuss.
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^ It's been a few weeks since then and I believe the DME has adapted to the new injectors and o2 sensor I put in shorthly thereafter. I still have a slight leak in my header at the cyl #1 runner and flange(where it attches to the head). This is most likely affecting A/F as it is introducing unmetered air into the system. I just have to get gas for my welder this week so I can fix it.
Updates to come.
BTW I live in Kreis Bad Dürkheim, and bwawuz02 is up around K-Town.
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Great looking work!
Lots of inspiration and info for my M42 timing chain/sprockets/tensioner project coming up this week.
Thanks,
d.hitchcock
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Ugh, damn. I never checked this thread and apparently didn't subscribe. I was scanning through your build to look for pointers for when I'm putting everything together. I appreciate your help anyway though, sir and your touring is looking right fancy.
I cleaned everything up and the new M42 timing case is already on. I'm going today to finish the rest of the work. Hopefully it's running by this afternoon or tomorrow. Whatever happens, it will be a momentous achievement for a guy who's never worked on cars before.