M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: fiftytakedowns on January 09, 2011, 03:54:07 PM
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A continuation from:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=12624
So now I have a spare long block that needs a couple parts, but is in good shape, and some other parts that can help me do this, as well as a place to work. I decided to get it towed back to marin and get to work.
Well today I found some interesting if not good results from the teardown.
I pulled the Plugs today and cranked the engine over by hand as advised to by a family friend mechanic. and felt for any resistance or seizure. luckily, I found niether, and the engine turned over extremely smooth. this points me to think that there was no contact between the valves and the pistons.
Secondy, Looking at the plugs, there was no shrapnel damage, or any for that matter on the spark plugs. This also points me to believe that the pistons and valves never touched.
when taking a mini LED flashlight and poking around the combustion chamber through the spark plug areas I didnt see any damage on the pistons, jsut a we bit of carbon coating.
im about to start pulling off the timing cover gasket to see what rails are damaged ETc..... Anyone have anything else they think I should look out for?
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Hmmm. Sounds like you're off to a promising start. Do you have the capability to do a leakdown test? That's the way I'd go.
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I dont know how to do a leakdown test, of all the engines Ive built, never had to do that.
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Im going to check to see if the Crank and the Cam sprockets Are at TDC maybe then I will actually see if it has skipped a tooth or not. Ill pick up a compression tester and see what the numbers are. and report back.
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Just slapped in the probe, the Chain sprockets were consistent with the TDC of the piston. Doesnt look like the chain skipped....
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oh the memories of the timing case profile gasket are rushing back ;)
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oh the memories of the timing case profile gasket are rushing back ;)
lol
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just spent 270 on parts fml
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So today I nearly finsihed the entire timing chain rebuild.
all I have left to do is Torque the 22MM Crank pulley, and add the eight bolts on the pulley. I got rid of the front dampener for the power steering and AC cause I have niether. 3lb ROTational WEIGHT LOSS FTW.
How does one torque that 22mm bolt without a gun?
I did find a puncture; A tiny tiny leak in the radiator. I threw in a raw egg cause I was so fed up. anyone else know how to fix a little leak in the radiator?
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You're getting close, sounds like.
You can torque the bolt with a ratchet wrench and a 2-3' pipe. I'll bet that'd be good for anything up to 300 ft-lb. I'm not sure how I'd do it off the car though.
I've had luck with both JB Weld and plumbing solder on metallic parts of radiators, but I have yet to find an epoxy that works for the glass-reinforced nylon end tanks. I've heard a really hot soldering iron can weld it if you add a little extra nylon. Check out Harbor Freight if you have one close by, they have a cheap plastic welder and nylon welding sticks that might do the trick.
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If you put the motor back in the car before trying to crank the 22mm bolt into place, you can borrow the damper-holding tool I made years ago. It is a piece of 1/2" steel plate with 6 holes in it that you bolt in place of the pulley. Put a block of wood where the intake box would be & this rests on that. Then crank away with a breaker bar & pipe!
You may also be able to do it with the motor out, but you'd need to figure that one out.
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Is the trans off the block and can you get to the Flywheel? If so, you can get a piece of strap steel (6-8" long, 1" wide and at least 1/8" thick) and drill two holes in it. Bolt one end to the engine case and the other to one of the outer pressure plate holes. This should keep the engine from rotating. As soon as I find a picture, I will post it.
Tried to upload a picture, but Photobucket seems to be having a bad day...
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The engine is in the car all bolted up, upon starting it up, the crank pullet came loose so tahts how I discovered that I needed to torque it down. I also did the *egg* trick. it sort of worked I guess. I'd liek to fix it on the cheap cheap if possible.
thanks
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alright, JB welding the Radiator as we speak.
got the car started, tensioner has some pressure and it's running, although it's a bit rough.
I get sort of a ticking noise as if someone hasnt adjusted their valves. anyone familiar with this?
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http://dl.dropbox.com/u/13819714/MVI_0245.AVI
Here how it looks/ sounds, a little Video to say the least.
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I'll think about it or a 24v m50 or something. I'm getting more and more irritated with the m42, although I like the gas mileage. If I even get good gas mileage, my ODO is broken; I wouldnt know either way. The e30 is really taxing on me mentally.
Now the car drives and is what I woul like to say "done" I still have a bogging issue when the car is not completely warmed up, and I have replaced every sensor ETC. and Even When I am driving, Ill be driving at liek say 2500K RPM and cruising, and the car will just start bucking violently out of nowhere, as iff there is no fuel pressure or spark etc.. I think my wiring harness has been Fucked with hardcore.
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You might want to check the wiring harness that goes to the AFM. Mine used an intermediate connector that went between the AFM and the main wiring harness. Anyway, when I disconnected this I found water and corrosion that was causing my car to buck and refuse to rev above 4500 rpm or so.
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You might want to check the wiring harness that goes to the AFM. Mine used an intermediate connector that went between the AFM and the main wiring harness. Anyway, when I disconnected this I found water and corrosion that was causing my car to buck and refuse to rev above 4500 rpm or so.
how far up the harness was this collector, I wouldnt be suprised if it was something like this.
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In addition: m42's got a super irritating problem and I have lived with it for nearly 2 years now. and I am pretty much fed up with it. I've been contemplating 24v for this reason.
Anyway:
The car literally can not drive when It has not fully warmed up. it will idle (HARDLY), and will immediately Cut out/ Die / BOG if you tap the gas.
This problem gets increasingly worse the colder it is outside.
I have no clue what It could be as I thought I had replaced most of the parts involved. But I did get multiple parts at the JY to hope that I could systematically eliminate with no luck.
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The intermediate harness is about 2 feet long or so and connects directly to the AFM. Some cars do not have this item. It's worth checking though.
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Did you just cut it back and check out the wires wrapped inside?
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Have you checked the Idle Control Valve?
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Have you checked the Idle Control Valve?
I have literally replaced it with three other units, all proven to be working, and cleaned Etc.
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Did you just cut it back and check out the wires wrapped inside?
You might not have this item installed on your car--it was added as part of a recall campaign. I cannot find a picture of it on Realoem. It should be apparent if it is indeed installed.
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ohh okay.
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IS there any way to isolate whether this is a Fuel issue, a Spark Issue, or an electrical Issue?
Im planning to attack this in a couple ways this weekend:
- I am going to replace the ground strap between the block and the Chassis, because it looks very rough, and the wires are exposed.
-Additional ground between head and block for sensors.
-check all other grounds for contacts specifically the one from the DME to the shock tower or battery tray. (for some reason my hood has a ground strap on it) Any other grounds to check?
For Fuel:
I will jumper the Fuel Pump relay and see if for some reason something is telling the fuel pump to stop working maybe?? causing agressive Bogging, or no running whatsoever.
Check to see if any return fuel lines under the car have been Kinked cuasing fuel pressure against the flow.
I ahve no Idea how to test if it is not getting spark. or anything. Im really confused what would cause such an aggressive failure.
Here are some Videos of how it runs:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Eu5npniUyl4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NF3NEp_dnX4
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I made some headway today.
the sensors Checked out pretty good CPS had a like 650 ohm reading while the camshaft sensor was like 1300 ohm.
I think it's a spark issue becuase now it's acting like it's hitting a REv limiter. Im hoping there isnt some fucked Wiring somewhere. and I added and extra ground between the shock tower and the intake plenum.
Any Ideas?
I am getting two different ECU readings
Of my MARK D chip ECU the engine wont rev past 2K rpms and its spitting out a 1271 code
off the stock ECU no chip Im getting a 1244 code and it's revving up to 3.5K rpm before it does the misfire/sputtering now..
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I thought I would mention that When the car was warmed up this misfiring, sputtering jerking Etc. WAs intermittent and would show up randomly. I also tried wrapping the coil wires separately too see if there was a noise issue etc... but to no avail.
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How old are the coils? Can you swap them out with a borrowed set?
Also, teh spark plug wires really get chewed up in the shitty stock plastic wiring harness, which can lead to a misfire. You might be able to see the misfire in a completely dark garage if you pull the cover off the wiring harness.
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I tried to replace each individual coil with a new one, and none improved it at all. Each was showing spark even when I was disconnecting the Boot, and watching the arch, it was always arching.