M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
FAQ / REFERENCE => Member Profiles => Topic started by: Gerta318is on October 27, 2010, 05:32:48 PM
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Hey folks I thought I might finally put my profile here on M42club. I've owned Gerta, my E30 for 18 or so months ... this is the first BMW in our family, a car I always wanted but family life kept getting in the way of. Now, my wife and I are at a place where this isn't such a bad idea. It's my first car that I've decided to do all the major mechanicals on and that DIY is the norm rather than a temporary fix until I get it into a shop.
Originally this car was bought so I could "fix it up" and then drive it, but now has become a serious hobby to me. I can't tell you the zen appeal to working on my car with one of my sons ... or finding the little bits or fixing the the car up just so. This has become a full time obsession according to my wife.
Gerta started out as a California car, moved to Oregon, and then finally to Washington state where she now resides with a comfortable place in the garage. This car was driven hard, with 248k on the odo when I purchased it, and now enjoys spirited yet respectful driving by me. Let me just say that I removed the fart can muffler, asian influenced sticker on the rear window, and fixed the body damage ... and then repainted her the same color DiamondSchwartz ... The dash still has one crack (hardly noticeable) and the PO's poor tint job needs to be fixed ... The front seats need a little attention but aren't terrible yet. It has been a lot of work and a lot of "live and learn" but I love this car. The car gets a lot of attention and here is the list:
Done to date:
Service I & II - June 2009
Fuel Filter
Air Filter
Sparkplugs
Coolant
Belts
Rear Axle bearings
New OEM Ansa exhaust from cat back
Used 4.10 open swapped
New Hirschmann Antenna
Left front Tie rod
OEM Floor mats - black
Done in 2010
New Thermostat
New Waterpump
Fresh Repaint and new drivers side fender
Replaced both fog lights glass
rewired Depo US Smilieys
New "i" lip
Black Vinyl Armrest / Rear Headrest back seat
New Glovebox
JVC KDR-900 stereo w/Bluetooth
Premium Speakers w/front tweeters
Recovered parcel tray black
Replaced halfshafts
Swapped to 4.10 LSD
New Hood shock / hood insulation
Replaced all tools in tool kit
New fan clutch
Replaced Subframe bushing w/ AKG 80D blue
Replaced Trailing arm bushings w OEM Rubber
Replaced rear swaybar endlinks and hanger mounts
Replaced final drive bushing w/ AKG 80D blue
Installed Bilstein sports w/ E46 mounts in rear + reinforcement plates
Eibach Sport Springs
Brake job + speed bleeder install
To do's:
Replace front valance / "is" lip
Swap bottlecaps for basket weaves
Wire Euro clock & map light rear view mirror
Black carpet install
Paint US license plate filler / interior engine bay trim / seat mounts
Front suspension overhaul
Clean engine bay
Timing chain / sprockets replacement / new radiator install / oil pan gaskets
Paint valve cover, etc ...
replace power steering lines and repair leaky resevoir
New drivers side window / rear quarter window install
Electric Ti fan conversion
Z3 1.9 short shifter + shifter bushings
New door cards / weather stripping / rear seat cards
New rear seat belt recepticles
New drivers side seat belt
Cruise control install
Sunroof headliner install / new gaskets
Tail light gasket replacement
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Pictures:
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Too bad the pictures aren't working, sounds like you've done great work! look forward to seeing the pictures. :D
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+1 on the pics...I host mine at Photobucket & paste the 'thumbnail' code directly into my posts.
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Will do Dave. Yeah, she has come a long way and yet has a long way to go. I feel differently about this car versus the others that I have had ... I mean since there is community and resources to work on the car it feels more part of the family then any of the others I've owned.
Oh, I need to edit what I recently did as I'd like to include the new fuel pump and fuel sender ... I think I forget all the little projects that I do with the car.
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Here's links to the start of the project: http://s1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/Kevin_Morrin/Gerta/.
I'll upload the newer pictures shortly after I get them off the camera.
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Should yours look better than mine BEFORE you started?
I love the hacked SI board, awesome job there. She's in good hands now.
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I'm sure I can find the picture of the "sticker" that was on the back window of the car ... it is some ron jon katana weilding triangle thing ... Nothing screams "ricer" more than than ... now if I could just find my underglow ...
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Ok ... decided to put the car up on jackstands this weekend in order to start the shifter bushing replacement and Z3 1.9 short shifter install. Found out that I have the E30 325i shifter instead as the part was superceded ... waiting on the correct one from Tischer. I took some time though to change out the back up switch and paint the shifter arm, etc ... black. I took the opportunity to inspect my transmission and am thinking about draining / replacing the transmission oil. Are there recommendations on which oil to use in there? The steering rack is a mess .... I tracked the leaks from the PS resevoir and the lower banjo connection. I think I need new lines.
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The trannys used different fluids. Mine is a yellow label ATF box. I tried 75w90 gear oil that wasn't bad. It has some nice Mobil1 synthetic ATF now. Very smooth shifts even in cold weather.
If your transmission has no label, use a high grade 75w90 gear oil. I'd think 75w140 is far too thick. I found out you can even use motor oil in a pinch, the ratings are on different scales...so 75 weight gear oil is similar to 40 weight motor oil.
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Dave, Where's the label located if it has one? Also that damn shifter bushing in the back ... how do you remove/replace without dropping the drive line?
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My label is very visible on the passenger side, more than halfway down, sort of on the back of the bell housing. I'll post a pic if I remember to do it. Mine was easy enough to see without even jacking up the car. It's a large sticker too, maybe 2"x 3".
I have no idea how you'd get that bushing out if the drive shaft is still bolted up. I thought everyone replaced the shifter/seals/bushings and tranny rear output seal/guibo/CSB all in one operation. LMK if you manage it.
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I've got an idea and I'll let you know how that works out.
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Dave,
No dice on the bushing, I simply couldnt get leverage. It's hard enough for a 300 lb guy to get under the car let alone get both arms in the tranny tunnel.
I did however switch out the transmission tranny oil. It apparently hadnt been changed in 251k miles ... I did the finger test too and it was about one pinkie joint lower than the fill hole. I put the 1.2 quarts of Synthetic Mobile1 ATF in there. I cleaned a ton of metal shavings off the tranny drain plug though. It makes me wonder if the condition of that transmission is a worry.
Is it normal to have a pea sized lump of fine shavings? Do you use the same ATF in the power steering?
Gerta
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I added some pictures of my leaky power steering resevoir and underbody ... Geez this is like plugging the proverbial leaky ship!
http://s1137.photobucket.com/albums/..._Morrin/Gerta/.
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So finally the longest timing chain / cam gear replacement / mess under intake / coolant system replacment is coming to a close ... I need to replace one timing cover bolt as it stripped with the appropriately longer bolt. I still have a ways to go though since I hurt my back ... I will be updating this thread more frequently than every 11 months.
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Gah, back pain is no fun. I had some troubles earlier this year, glad that's over.
I missed your questions last year...but my advice is to use the same ATF in both gearbox and P/S system. I've heard that some newer ATF oils have high-pressure additives that might attack phosphor bronze. I'm (A) not sure that we have phosphor bronze in our 'boxes and (B) not sure that it's true. I'll post positive info if I find it.
BTW, your link above is a 404 at Photobucket...the page editor might have truncated it...I'd em-bed it in a link (http://s1137.photobucket.com/albums/n514/Kevin_Morrin/Gerta/) instead.
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No sweat Dave, thanks. I just got around to installing the new PS resevoir and lines. I am finished with the res and the line to the pump but the return line is being stubborn. I cannot for the life of me get the bolt to thread, so I sit here taking a break with Mr. Sam Adams Oktoberfest. Over the last week or so I've been making an effort to get it all done now that my back is on the mend. (http://lightbox.com/lYk0FYe)
http://lightbox.com/wall/kmorrin
Just received the new intake boot from blunttech so I had to finish off the last hose runs for the mess under the intake.
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Just finished installing the new taillights plus gaskets from Levent at GutenParts ... these are NOS Hella Tail lights ... would highly recommend GutenParts due to Levent's great customer service!
https://picasaweb.google.com/100610864538142335534/NewListings12232010# (https://picasaweb.google.com/100610864538142335534/NewListings12232010#)
Trying to kill two birds with one stone by taking care of the cracked passenger tailight and getting the new seals to take care of a potential trunk leak. I think the simple small projects make a nice change of pace when I run into issues like the pesky power steering return bolt.
http://lightbox.com/wall/kmorrin (http://lightbox.com/wall/kmorrin)
A while ago I picked up a set of E21 recaros in great shape which I think I will either recover or swap in and use as is ... I have a second set that is in need of serious recovery which I can switch parts or the plastics.
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I'm in a constant state of alternating between serious mechanical work (or at least what passes for that in my garage) and finishing small projects. I had recently cleaned and painted the BMW'd spark plug channel cover black using duplicolor trim paint. The white lettering was really scuffed up so I used blue masking tape and a white rustolem paint to get 'er back to white.
Pics: http://lightbox.com/wall/kmorrin
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Finally got that pesky power steering pump return bolt in and the lines re-run correctly for the res. I had to remove the sway bar drop links which was good as upon inspection one had failed. Fortunately I have the entire front suspension waiting to go in while I'm waiting on the remainder of the parts I ordered from a forum member in Germany.
Just need to charge the battery so I can finish the initial start up and bleed the coolant.
Gotta tackle that front valence and IS lip install too this weekend.
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I hear you about alternating between serious work & little tweaks. I hope the weather holds long enough for me to decide on new struts...
That plug cover looks really good. It's so bright it almost hurts my eyes!
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Dave - the damnable cell phone flash ... I completely mangled my ball joints on the control arms and they still aren't out. I just ordered a harbor frieght ball joint spreader that should be here tuesday (crossing my fingers). The droplinks were so shot that I could get nearly 360 degrees of rotation with nearly no pressure!
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I bought a two-arm puller for my next attempt. I saw the joint spreader the last time I was there, that looked like a good idea too.
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Dave I received the Harbor Freight ball joint popper today and it worked wonders. So far I have only the upper ball joints left to get off. It looks like I am going to use the pickle fork for those. I'll update the pictures when I get a chance. I'm beat.
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Good last couple of days of work even though I missed the R3V drive to Leavenworth, WA for the last weekend of Oktoberfest .... as much as I wanted to go, I just couldnt get all the stuff I needed done, done.
So Friday I did get the suspension all in except for the M3 LCABs. Every single front suspension piece looks to have been original! The swaybar drop links could be moved with a finger, the hanger rubber was brittle, the control arms weren't controlling anything ... the list goes on. I cant believe someone lived with this car with nothing but new shocks for 245k miles! Saturday I had a local tire shop press the bushings (for free!) into new lollipops. Today I ordered up Monty23psk's LCAB tool, a new sunroof headliner panel, stripped the old front valance and reinstalled all fogs, etc ... including my iS lip. This fixed an issue where my front looked like i had a hair lip ...
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Received Monty's LCAB puller on Wednesday and finally got around to using the tools. Wow. It made a difficult job very easy ... those would be worthy to purchase if you had more than one car to do. Got everything installed and tightened down and then noticed my driver side tie rod boot was leaking ... the passenger side was dry and brittle. Needless to say that the they are now on order from Blunt. Since getting her off jack stands was out of the question I also did the motor mounts.
Also tested the aux fan which hasn't been coming on. Jumpered the pins on the harness for the fan and it spins right up ... I guess I have to track the reason(s) it wont work now. I'm open to suggestions if anyone has any.
Now I'm waiting to get the car of jack stands before I put the front valence back on.
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Glad tool worked. Regarding Aux fan, if you push AC button and it turns on on low, then fan is ok and resistor is ok. If you jump the pins and you get it to come on low and high, then your issue is the temp switch on the radiator.. Did you test both low and high? how about with ac button on?
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Monty - So I pushed the AC button, it lights up but no aux fan. I jumpered the fan and it spins. I've replaced the thermostat and the temp switch (I bought yours remember). My thermostat is 92 deg and the temp switch is a 91 deg if that makes a difference - I'm in WA state so not a "hot" weather place typically.
I can't get it to come on at all unless I jump it, so I figure that it is the diode. I understand that is underneath the fuse box.
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That's right you did get it from me, just wasn't sure it was you.
If you press the AC button and nothing happens, its either your diode, resistor or relay.
1. Do you have the OEM fan or aftermarket? Do you have the low speed resistor installed?
2. When you jump the connector, can you get the fan to turn on at both low and high speeds?
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Monty -
The fan is OEM original with the car. When I jumped it with 12v it only came on with one speed. I applied power to both the red and black male connectors. I dont know if the low speed resistor is the issue, as nothing appeared to be unplugged from the fan itself.
Ok, so google is my friend: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/showthread.php?t=386215
I'm going to start with the resistor and relay. All the fuses are new but I will check those too.
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Are you jumping the fan from the connector of the fan directly? Sounds like you are. If so, you need to jump the wires form the radiator temp sensor side, where plug has 3 wire leads. Once is power, and the other 2 are for each speed.
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Yeah, I think I broke the resistor.
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I might have an extra one that is new but barely used. Just not sure where it is. Let me know if intereseted and I can check.
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Thanks Monty, I actually ordered one from Pelican (20 bucks and it was in stock). Hoping to get that Monday so I can put my valance back on.
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Monty - done like dinner! new resistor in and viola! when I hit the AC button it comes on. Cool times coming this summer!
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Cool. (no pun intended). What's next for the car?
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FWIW - it sounds like I have either a bad bearing or a rock stuck somewhere. Whatever. At least it runs.
Next up: tie rods. alignment. smog. tabs. In that order. Well I also need to fix my sunroof ... blah blah blah. Trying to squeeze that in while packing to move houses ...
Damn ... I need to get some pictures on here too.
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Glad it was the resistor & not the diode. That little SOB is INSIDE the fuse box.
Doing this while you're moving?!? Fun, fun fun.
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Ahhh it'll be a slow move. It's ok though ... the new house is twice the size of this one. We have 8 people in a three bedroom house (1600 sq ft). Hence how slow my build is going. Debating whether or not to put the new brakes on while the car is up and the wheels are off ...
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well I got 'er done! All new Lemforder tie rods, boots, and those ridiculous metal clamps that I couldn't get to work for crap. I'm thinking of using zip ties. The passenger side boot had a teaspoon or so of powersteering fluid in it, the drivers side was dry. This car has a rebuilt rack already in it, so I am wondering why it is leaking.
pictures all loaded up to http://lightbox.com/wall/kmorrin
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You need a special tool for the clamps. I bought it for this job so could have sent it to you also with bushing tool. lol. Zipties works just as well.
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Yeah, thanks. Zip ties were what was on the one side replaced a couple of years ago, the other with the dried out tie rod end has the clamps. I think I am going to try bent needle nose pliers and if that doesnt work then I will use the zip ties.
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I just sent you the refund for the tool rental. Thanks again.
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Monty, thanks ... received. I appreciate you loaning those out.
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No problem, anytime. If you have other projects, let me know. I have done a lot to this car. Only thing I haven't done is paint the car or mount tires.
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Thanks, I think that I am going to do the brakes while I am at it ... one of the front lines is cracking. I'm replacing the the front Right caliper with a brand new one too, along with UCC SS lines, ATE powerswirl front rotors/Pagid pads up front, brembo blanks/textar pads for the back.
The wheels are all off so it makes sense to do it now.
I also have a damnable powersteering leak from somewhere that I have to locate. I curse the previous owner who did half ass crap to this car.
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So I've been steadily working on this brake refit as time allows. I've had to overcome some issues that I created for myself with the SS brakelines and there have also been some issues that pre-existed my getting the car. the first was a frozen and stripped screw holding one of the front brake rotors on. I had to drill that puppy out ... thank god I was replacing the rotor and the new rear rotors have new set screws. The passenger rear brake line is either cross threaded or the old rubber line broke off on the hardline. Got a call into a friend for some assistance.
Because the line is loose yet f'd up ... the resevoir went dry, so now I think I am going to have to burp the ABS ...
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The list goes on, doesn't it? At least you're fixing it all the right way. I'll bet you can't wait to get her off the jacks, eh?
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So close Dave yet so far. I really need it done this weekend so I can get 'er aligned, smogged, and then tabs. It would be nice to drive the car once before the weather is to crappy to want to. After a year in the garage she needs to be washed badly.
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Finally. The car is resting on the ground after a little over a year on jackstands. I need to put the front valance back on, realign the hood, and install the sunroof panel but the monster brake job and suspension work is finally done. I had stripped one of my soft fittings and had to order a new line. When the line came in I ran out of time (moving) so I flared the end of the line on the car and installed a fitting from the new line. So far when I bled the brakes everything is holding up.
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That's a big day there...she's rolling on her own suspension! Congratulations!
I had a fair amount of trouble lining up an e30 hood...they're cumbersome without a helper. I used a few towels on the rear quarters of the hood to slide it back & forth yet keep it from scratching the quarter panels. I got it nearly perfect (but still managed to scratch the clearcoat). I also discovered that lithium is an excellent grease for the hood pivot. Great time to lube the hood release latch too.
I'll bet that was tough while moving; no way I'd have gotten anything done in a situation like that...once I had a parts car like that, on jacks in the garage while I pulled bits...that e30's ending wasn't as happy though...
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Dave - you ain't lyin'! It was a ton of work. All my tools, etc ... are at the old house. Fortunately it's only a mile and a half from the new house so I can make an easy day of it when I work there. I forgot that I need to install the new euro elips too ... So much to do before next E30 Picnic.
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Oh, and happy Thanksgiving ... if you are reading this then get off of the computer and spend some time with humans.
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LOL...not until 4pm EST...
Happy Xgiving to you (and yours) as well.
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So finally got around to installing the valance ... had to order one of the filler panels from Blunt, so I installed that too. The car looks like she was meant to look.... installed the Hella Euro Elips and tried to get the sunroof panel lined up with the headliner panel.
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Update 4/1 - Engine has developed a leak of fresh oil ... hmmm. It was leaking coolant too until I figured out the bleeder screw wasn't in far enough. I just want to pull this engine and helicoil the shit out of it plus reseal every last seal ... It never ends.
So now I need M42Club help as I am thinking of doing that after I build up an engine to swap in there. Here's what I am thinking:
The "plan" - acquire a cheap used motor and begin researching options for a rebuild. The ultimate goal is not " because racecar" or FI or even turbo. My thoughts is a sports minded tourer and DD. No leaks, no squeaks, driveable. Initial thoughts on acquiring parts:
1. S52 Pistons
2. M44 Rods
3. S50 Main bearings
4. MM valves and behives
5. VW Lifters (or MM ones)
6. M47 crank (well I can dream)
7. MM Lightened flywheel
8. All new timing gears and gaskets (Blunttech)
9. COP kit - already have Rob e30 or HQMotorsport one
What I need to figure out is what machining costs and/or clean up I need and what the costs should be on that. If you have some experience with this type of rebuild I'd love to hear what you think.
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So ... 1996 318ti M44 block fell into my lap. Not literally but for a reasonable price (500 delivered to my door). In talking to metric mechanic it seems like this might be the right way to go. It has the crank, pistons, and connecting rods that I am looking for so this might be the next step. Thoughts anyone on what I should be looking for?
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Bumping this up because I finally have the new engine in and running ... a couple of annoying things to resolve but I hope to post an update with links to pictures soon.
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I always look forward to your updates...so much going on down there!
Can't wait for the pics. I have a spare motor up here that has me thinking the same thing...unless it ends up in an E21...