M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: ak96ss on September 07, 2006, 01:39:50 PM
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I'm knee deep in pulling the front of the engine apart to replace all the timing chain stuff, and I realize that I'm a bit leery of Brandon Purcell's method of loosening the crank bolt, i.e., breaker bar on bolt, block of wood on frame, and bump the starter.
Has anyone used this method, or have you used a holder of some sort?
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I'm knee deep in pulling the front of the engine apart to replace all the timing chain stuff, and I realize that I'm a bit leery of Brandon Purcell's method of loosening the crank bolt, i.e., breaker bar on bolt, block of wood on frame, and bump the starter.
Has anyone used this method, or have you used a holder of some sort?
Well, hell, never mind. My impact wrench zipped that thing off without even breaking a sweat... I figured I'd give it a shot, since I had nothing to lose by trying, and next thing I knew it was jamming my hand into the AC condensor!
:)
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Well, hell, never mind. My impact wrench zipped that thing off without even breaking a sweat... I figured I'd give it a shot, since I had nothing to lose by trying, and next thing I knew it was jamming my hand into the AC condensor!
:)
what kind of impact wrench did you use? whats the torque spec on it?
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Lucky bastard. I had to machine a tool from some half inch steel plate. Must be a hell of a breaker gun, or maybe it was not torqued down properly?
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1/2" drive, like 250 lb/ft max, picked it up at Lowe's about 6 years ago IIRC. It's an Excell, of Chinese origin, but works quite well. I just upped my line pressure to like 95 psi and gave it a whirl.
It did stutter a bit at first, but once it started spinning it was all over.
I suspect it may not have been torqued down properly, to be honest, although with a 20" breaker bar it wasn't coming loose. The crank pulley had a noticable wobble to it, less than 1mm but still slightly off. I'll be checking it for true once I get back under the hood next week and see if I need another one, or if it was just that the bolt wasn't quite tight enough.
It was awfully easy, though! :)
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my air impact zipped mine off like nothing as well. and the starter method didnt work for me
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If your impacts are taking yours off then it sounds like they weren't torqued to spec by the last person to have them apart... or you have a demon impact.
I have an IR 2135TI running at 120psi line pressure from two piggybacked tanks, which is a DAMN nice impact and boarderline too much air and it wouldn't budge. It took five slaps of the starter to get it loose.
Tightening... however... the clutch slipped at 215ft/lbs so that's as tight as it got.
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250ft, pounds is the torque spec for the bolt.
I made a tool from (ghetto, I know) a bed rail (actually the angle iron from a broken one)...
A bit of drilling and grinding and it held it perfect.
Hey, it worked.
Made a similar one for water pump removal.
Homemade ghetto tools are the best.
By teh way, i finally found my good (click type) torque wrench after buying a torsion beam style for when I re-install everything (waiting on a profile gasket ARG!) and found teh damn thing only goes to 150ft. pounds. Oh well, I guess the beam will get used after all.
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the electronic snap on i just bought only goes till like 100. a breaker bar till the clutch slips sounds good to me
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250ft/lb MAC is what I used but the clutch slipped first.
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I had a hell of a time removing mine. I had it on my rack and tried my composite IR and it would not budge. I used a chain wrench around the front pull with out any movment and finaly I removed the radiator and the cooling fan and used the 750lb 3/4 impact we use to remove the center locking nut off of the Enzo and F40. That finaly did it.
I have to agree that if that bolt is coming off with a 1/2 impact it was not tight enough
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... we use to remove the center locking nut off of the Enzo and F40.
Stop bragging. :p
Those things are put together buy fkin' Iti's. That's right up there with the French. You act like those guys are capable of making bolts tight.:D
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I would never say they put those things together well, they just go fast and attract alot of tail.
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I was slipping the clutch. My fix was slightly ghetto in that I made it, but it works like a charm. It was actually not all that ghetto...it was made on a Bridgeport and on the mini CNC center at my college. There was no hole saw for the big hole to be done on the Bridgeport. Ghetto once again...used a 3/16 end mill in ~25 steps of 20/1000ths to cut out the hole on the CNC LOL. G-CODE + COPY/PASTE are your friend there. Had to sit there the whole damn time adding cutting oil...zzzzzzz.
Ghetto was how I used it to loosen the bolt. Since I could give a shit about the AC I just used the compressor as a brace. Luckily nothing was hurt, although it was removed promptly therafter.
The cam holding tool was ghetto as well...not bad for a vice, framing hammer and hack saw.
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woah that is ghetto...
quick question...would you mind if i borrowed that camshaft alignment tool? i'd pay for shipping to my doorstep and back!
Denis
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i dont see why you couldnt just use a straight edge. Especially since you may want to advance intake anyways
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i dont see why you couldnt just use a straight edge. Especially since you may want to advance intake anyways
i've never used the tool before so im clueless about how the tool actually works..
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I messed with advancing & retarding the intake cam. Basically, leave it alone. The car idled like crap, and either had power down lo and nothing up top, or vice versa. The Motronic had no idea there was a change, so the ignition maps were all off, and my mileage also suffered. Leave them where they are is the conclusion I met.
I could send it to you. I think I am going to machine a nice one from some 1/2" aluminum bar now that my garage is a machine shop. This sheetmetal one was not perfect and left a little to be desired, honestly. It worked though.