M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
FAQ / REFERENCE => Member Profiles => Topic started by: jscribble on June 17, 2010, 08:28:37 AM
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I recently had to sell my motorcycle and pickup, as my fiance and I are buying a house and toys = funds. In a moment of clarity, I decided to keep Betty, my 91 318is, and start down the long-ish road of restoring and repairing her. My goal is to make her into a street warrior, ready for light track use, and a blast to drive while still being as reliable as ever.
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/driving.jpg)
Just rolled over 262k miles, and still runs GREAT. ABS light stays on, and temp never likes to get above 1/4 (thermostat on the way). I have owned about 15 vehicles, and nothing has been as dependable, or as fun as my bimmer. I took her for a pass at the drag strip about a month after I bought her, 17.67 at 93, I had wheel hop at launch, and blew my shift to second, but still managed a very respectable trap speed from this fiesty 1.8 liter. The end result was a cracked head. One used head, a valve job, and $1700 later, I had betty back in top form. To be fair, I drove this car like it was stolen for about 2 years. She took it and begged for more.
In just over 3 years, I had one belt fail, my diff oil got a little low, and of course, the head crack, just a little bitty one, but serious nonetheless.
Some pics of the car in different states
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/bettybimmer.jpg)
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/n640510124_6200247_8135664.jpg)
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/n640510124_6200249_7641280.jpg)
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/32511_10150208557175125_640510124_1.jpg)
Recently I have:
Installed Dinan chip - Love it!
Cleaned ICV - Idle dead set at 800
Recharged A/C - FR-12 works pretty well
Replaced exhaust - DO NOT run without a resonator!
Upgraded a few lights to led, more to come
Oil Change - Royal Purple always
Cleaned K&N filter
Temporarily treated rust - she needs a paintjob (P/O cheaped out)
Tinkered with the stereo tune - Eclipse av3423, boston g2
Installed e-brake cables - discovered no ebrake hardware at the wheels - WTB
Painted grill and kidneys
Installed keyless entry - $30 and 20 mins never felt so good
Repaired broken wire on OBC thermometer - no more -22 outside!
Heater plate delete - done - looking into upgrading icv hose to solid tubing
Changed fuel filter
New front brakes. I miss my slots :(
Left on the list:
ALL suspension parts/bushings/links
Clutch/trans input bearing/lighter flywheel?
Elec puller fan conversion
Timing tensioner
New timing chain
tires/rims
new windshield - pitted/small crack
New front valance/is lip/is skirts/rear apron
Paint
LSD - in the works
Abs? - light is on. Occasionally works when it shouldn't
Pull and clean interior
Headlight upgrade
Rearrange some switches on the dash as my dvd player blocks them
Smoked turn signals
LED conversion of marker lights + tie in to turn signals
Possible Turbo - collecting parts
COP kit
I'd like to find a spare motor to rebuild, as well as a trans and possibly a diff.
Here is the car as of last night, fiance in the pic 6/16/10
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/bettyretouch.jpg)
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hey man thanks for the compliments on the motor ur alpine is in nice shape, i see ur tryin to sell everything for the house but the bimmer, dont blame yah my wife tryed to talk me into sellin mine when i bought our house, needless to say it didnt happen
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Haha. I kinda worked it the way I wanted to. We needed x amount, and I said that I couldn't sell the car, since it had a few issues, so now I get to keep it, and fix it! She doesn't know that turbos, perf chips, and sticky tires weren't oem... ;)
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I need some help. Stuck trying to figure out what to do for a respray. I still need to order skirts and aprons, but I think I am going to delete and fill the side trim, and possibly mold the side skirts in. I would like to change color, but I think it will look like sh*t if I don't do the engine bay/jams/sills. I think a good solution is a two-tone jobby. Does anyone have pics of good looking two tone bimmers? Also, if anyone has tips on the best looking front, side and rear aprons, please share. I would really appreciate input here.
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Updates. Did heater plate delete. Messed up my shoulder in the process, but I got it done.
After upper intake came off
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/P1040108.jpg)
SLUDGE
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/P1040110.jpg)
After lower got pulled and cleaned. All sludge removed. Denatured alcohol and carb cleaner
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/P1040111.jpg)
High temp black intake, next week I'll do the valve cover too.
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/P1040113.jpg)
I had a hell of a time plumbing the icv, all the hoses I tried wanted to collapse on the case side. Ended up putting it basically where it was. I need a new intake boot now, as I found a crack in the secondary (unused) vacuum port on it. Anyone know where to get a boot with one port instead of two? I know some had the port near the tb blocked off.
Mostly assembled
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/P1040114.jpg)
And finally, my ac recharge rig. Kits for sale soon!
(http://i816.photobucket.com/albums/zz82/bettybimmer/P1040115.jpg)
Digging now for the part number for the lowest temp aux fan temp switch. Anyone know it?
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the side trim removal is a great idea im doin the same im also shaveing doors, rear emblems and siedL front apron and sides with reiger rear apron
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I can't wait to see it man, I'm pretty much planning on copying your car. I like the reiger rear too, although I don't know what front you're talking about. I might shave the lock cylinders, but probably not the handles. The side trim looks fine if it's body color, but not in white imo.
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this is the seidL front apron and sides
(http://i770.photobucket.com/albums/xx346/manchuk/bimmer/miniatura2php.jpg)
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Thank you for that. I think I'm going to stick with more "traditional" on those, but I bet the front is exactly what a turbo needs.
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wel if ur stayin traditional maybe th mteck2 might b ur thing
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Kinda what I'm thinking. Will have to see what the budget allows when the time comes. Hoping this fall/winter.
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After bleeding coolant, my bleed screw decided to leak. Wrapped some teflon tape on a new brass one, and it's holding. Expansion tank now wants to leak at the bottom. Bought Rtv to reseal it with, hoping I can scrape some cash to pickup a 4.27 lsd, and start accumulating turbo parts.
Pretty sure I'm going with the mtech II kit from dynotech. Hopefully painting this winter. Anyone got a beater bimmer I can drive this winter?
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Attempted to reseal expansion tank. It refused my help. Going with a stock rad, new expansion tank, hoses and temp switch (80/88) from pelican. Already ordered lower temp thermo, so parts total $240. This unfortunately puts off the fun parts I was hoping to pay for this week, but will allow me to thrash the car when I do get the new diff in. Talked to a friend who has a bunch of efans, gave him measurements so might do the conversion at the same time.
Things to tackle soon:
Rear diff - 4.27 LSD + trailing arm bushings
Valve cover paint + new gaskets
Timing tensioner
Delete P/S
Has anyone run solid trailing arm bushings on the street? I wonder how rough it would be. I'm thinking poly, but would love to hear any advice! Also, delrin/solid diff mount worth it?
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Nice car. You are doing the right things for the right reasons.
In terms of the solid mounts and such, I would not recommend it. bmwman91 speaks to this a bit and he believes his car not only handles BETTER, but it is much more comfy. If you are keeping it as a DD, I'd stick with stock rubber or forgiving other materials. As near as I have read and been told, the M42 is a buzzy motor and you'll be wondering what happened to your fillings...
I think a 4.27 would be nuts as mine is silly quick with the 4.10 as well.
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NEWS! We will be closing on our first house on 7/23! Terms and offers and signatures and mountains of paperwork be damned, we're almost there!
Nice car. You are doing the right things for the right reasons.
In terms of the solid mounts and such, I would not recommend it. bmwman91 speaks to this a bit and he believes his car not only handles BETTER, but it is much more comfy. If you are keeping it as a DD, I'd stick with stock rubber or forgiving other materials. As near as I have read and been told, the M42 is a buzzy motor and you'll be wondering what happened to your fillings...
I think a 4.27 would be nuts as mine is silly quick with the 4.10 as well.
Thank you. I always value your opinion, as your car (and workmanship) are so very neat and tidy. My car has a long way to go, but I'm settled in for the long haul.
I drive a mini van for work between 600 -1000 miles per week, and when I get done, I want to know I'm DRIVING something, not holding on to a steering wheel attached to a pile of butter. I'm looking for track handling without utterly destroying mounts/perches, so at this point I'm looking at mostly poly bushings, still considering solid trailing arm bushings and likely sport springs. Motor mounts will definitely stay stock.
4.27 is on the list because I want some low down grunt, and an easier to find powerband when a stoplight racer finds me. My diff is tired, and is open anyway. No more one-wheel shame.
Fillings can be replaced. Incredible handling will do more for a smile than a dentist ever could anyway.
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Closing on the house today, delayed a week AGAIN. Financing is locked and done though. Everything came in a little less than planned, so I will have a few bucks left in the account, which is very good for betty.
New issue though, slight clicking coming from the rear of the car when rolling/low load
My guess is cv axle. Anyone confirm? First part I'm getting after close is the diff that Warsteiner was so kind to hold for me, then the bushings to bolt it up (subframe, trailing arm, diff) Maybe I should just get the half shafts too.
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About the ABS light on the dashboard, you can simply remove the light just behind it.
I had the same problem, but with the "brakes worn" light, even though I made them brand new.
All you need is to remove the casing around the brake, throttle and clutch pedal. Which can be done quiet fast, then you can reach the light while you prone under the pedal units and reach up to the dashboard back site.
Its faster than actually removing the dashboard unit.
Sorry for my english, since the explanation might not be perfect.
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Rain, your English is much better than mein Deutsch, and I live in Deutschland, so don't feel bad.
DJ Scribble, first and foremost, congrats on the house! Hopefully we'll be in a position to buy one when we get back to the States.
On your clicking, is it under load? when you shift?
I think you're barking up the right tree, but I'd check the rear U joint in your driveshaft as well...
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It's never under load, only when coasting. I think the u joint might play a part, because if I coast, then hit the go pedal, i get a little clunk.
On a positive note, Betty slept nice and cozy in her garage last night! It's so cool to finally have one!
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It's never under load, only when coasting. I think the u joint might play a part, because if I coast, then hit the go pedal, i get a little clunk.
On a positive note, Betty slept nice and cozy in her garage last night! It's so cool to finally have one!
Definitely the U Joint. I've been going through some debacles on my end and have replaced EVERYTHING in the rear end. And I mean EVERYTHING. Half shafts possibly, but my money is on the rear U joint.
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I'm more and more of a mind like you, I'd rather swap it all. Thanks for the tip.
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Now that the weather has started to break here in WI, I ordered a new radiator, hoses, and the plastic water pipe that comes off the block. I would recommend that any time you have your intake off you think about replacing that pile of crap, as mine was cracked again. (as others have noted before, they are flaky) Installing everything today, but don't have the proper hex key for the cam sensor to change the thermostat. I assume it's metric, so I'll pick up a set when I grab hose clamps.
Couple of bits to share: The lower rad hose (below the reservoir tank) is a huge pain, but I coated a screwdriver in coolant and rammed it in the semi-flared end and left it sit during dinner. Went on like a charm an hour later.
For those that have done the "mess under the intake" fix, I had a kink developing under the lower intake. Grab another band clamp, slide it over the part of the hose that wants to kink, and snug it down.
Still not 100% pleased with the bypass hose I made, Might look into making a metal line and flaring one end to match diameter of the larger (water pipe) outlet.
Pics to come, and as I just picked up a new dslr, they might even turn out ok.
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It looks like I'll be leaving the E30 fold for a while, I just purchased a 2004 325xi for a daily. I haven't decided Betty's fate yet, but there's a pretty good chance she'll be sold. I'd love to strip her down and autocross prep her, but I doubt the budget, nor my schedule will allow. If anybody in the midwest is looking for a good donor car, or a beater driver, pm me. I'd be willing to let her go cheap to a proper enthusiast!
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Gah...sorry to hear about that. Though the 325xi is a really nice car as well.
I'd advise waiting on it...you're going to kick yourself later if you make the wrong decision!
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I'd advise waiting on it...you're going to kick yourself later if you make the wrong decision!
The plans to jockey cars in our limited parking are already turning in my head. Unfortunately, I'm car-sitting a friend's Passat while she's out of state for at least the next few months. I'm hoping I can convince her to sell, so Betty has a spot, at least in our driveway.
I picked up "Sabine" (10 Bimmer points if you get the reference), the 325xi today, and I'm thrilled. There is a distinct "glossiness" to the way this particular e46 drives, that I'm not quite thrilled about though. The clutch pedal is heavy, yet it's action seems slow. Not sloppy, but not as "connected" as it is in the e30.
I drove them back-to-back, and Betty has a much sportier feel, and responds to shifting MUCH better. It will take a while to get used to the new, floaty clutch/shifting.
Anyway, for now, Betty is up for grabs. I'd much rather sell it to a fellow M42club member, than on the open meat market of Craigslist. The condition is shown pretty well in this thread, though I now have more (uninstalled) parts to go with the car. I'm not sure the body can be saved, there is some rust, I'll get some updated pics if anyone is interested. I will probably put her on Craigslist for $1800-2k, but I'll entertain any offers + stories as well as trades on here.
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I wish you'd have posted this sooner! I'm sorta wishing I hadn't dragged my 633CSi home now...it would have been good to have another M42. So I'm tapped at the present time (e24 parts are shockingly more expensive than the humble e30)
...unless you're into overpowered 80s Honda motorcycles...
As for the e46...there's a delay valve in the clutch line that causes that floatiness. It can be fixed...check it out here. (http://www.my330i.com/mod27.php)
***edit*** I had to look up the Sabine reference. Cool! I won't spill the beans either...
(http://www.my330i.com/mod27.php)
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As for the e46...there's a delay valve in the clutch line that causes that floatiness. It can be fixed...
This is why I'm going to keep poking in here, Dave, it's a better atmosphere, and smarter minds!