M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
PAPER OR PLASTIC => For Sale => Topic started by: selturk on March 18, 2010, 01:39:33 PM
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Sold sold sold...
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You are missing some info.
a. Where is car located
b. March 17th was yesterday, a Wednesday
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Yeah today is Thursday dude the 18th. Maybe you meant the 21st of Match. From the pics the car is here in NJ somewhere. If you don't think that is rust in that picture then........ok. Someone keyed Bitch into the car and I'm not so sure that is an easy fix. Interior looks great. Good Luck with yesterdays sale. If you want help getting it started let me know where you're located in NJ and maybe I can help out.
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You are missing some info.
a. Where is car located
b. March 17th was yesterday, a Wednesday
ohh my bad. car is located in Fairview NJ 07022.
ok just changed the date to 21, thanks :)
Yeah today is Thursday dude the 18th. Maybe you meant the 21st of Match. From the pics the car is here in NJ somewhere. If you don't think that is rust in that picture then........ok. Someone keyed Bitch into the car and I'm not so sure that is an easy fix. Interior looks great. Good Luck with yesterdays sale. If you want help getting it started let me know where you're located in NJ and maybe I can help out.
Yes, I meant the 21st. Car is in Fairview NJ 07022.
thanks.
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You will get a lot more than 2k if you part it out. If you decide to part it, I will take the front bumper ASAP!
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You will get a lot more than 2k if you part it out. If you decide to part it, I will take the front bumper ASAP!
I don't have the time and space for the car. If I had the time I probably get it fixed and sell it for more.
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That sucks! I think you should try putting in a new main relay and see if that gets her running again!
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I replaced fuel pump and fuel filter and car ran for few hours. but it happened again, now there is no spark.
any idea?
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Do a stomp test to see what codes it gives. If no CEL you might not be getting power to the DME...like from a blown fusible link in the trunk battery wiring harness or a bad main relay. The coils are fired directly from the DME, it's possible that it isn't getting power.
If you are getting a CEL, the DME should be OK. The CPS gives the DME a signal for spark, but you've replaced that. Test it for resistance, should be about 800 ohms IIRC.
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did u steal it?
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Do a stomp test to see what codes it gives. If no CEL you might not be getting power to the DME...like from a blown fusible link in the trunk battery wiring harness or a bad main relay. The coils are fired directly from the DME, it's possible that it isn't getting power.
If you are getting a CEL, the DME should be OK. The CPS gives the DME a signal for spark, but you've replaced that. Test it for resistance, should be about 800 ohms IIRC.
I was getting 1444. I will double check and post it here.
did u steal it?
borrowed money from a friend..
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Do a stomp test to see what codes it gives. If no CEL you might not be getting power to the DME...like from a blown fusible link in the trunk battery wiring harness or a bad main relay. The coils are fired directly from the DME, it's possible that it isn't getting power.
If you are getting a CEL, the DME should be OK. The CPS gives the DME a signal for spark, but you've replaced that. Test it for resistance, should be about 800 ohms IIRC.
I get CEL and I did the stomp test. It gave me 1262 (which is ICV). It gives me this code because I removed the ICV connector before and tried to start the car this way to see if the ICV is bad or not.
looks like I need to test the Crankposition sensor. Can the CPS sometimes work and no work ?
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lol was asking if u stole car and thats why the quick salle...
pullin yer chain
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lol was asking if u stole car and thats why the quick salle...
pullin yer chain
ohh I see lol.. I wish I had a garage for it, this is stressing me out.
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up up ^^
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pending..
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Good news!
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If you clear the DME codes - and then try the stomp test again and still get the "1444", my bet is the CPS is bad... Crank Position Sensor for whatever reason on the M42's does not and will not throw a code or CEL to show that it's bad. I don't know why that is, but in 99% of the threads posted on here (including my own very lengthy one a while back) AND on those posted on other BMW forums, a new CPS in an M42 should start that car... Especially if you have tried all of the aforementioned tests & component replacement (fuel filter, fuel pump is working, fuel pump relay is working, fuel pump fuse is good, DME is getting power if it shows ANY codes or blinks when doing the stomp test, DME relay is working, etc etc).
There are quite a few "non-start" threads that relate back to a failed CPS - definitely search them out on here, especially the one initially made by me - which had TONS of helpful info in there for the next person needing non-start help.
A bad ICV will cause some sporatic non-start or idle/drivability issues. If when turning the key ON, when you touch the ICV - is it humming or buzzing? If so, the ICV is powered. If there is NO hum or buzz, the ICV is dead. Take a small hammer and tap the outer casing, do you now feel any hum or buzz? If there is a hum or buzz, then try starting the vehicle - IF the vehicle starts, then the ICV needs to be cleaned (it's carboned up inside). After cleaning it, the car should run or operate for quite some time, enough so that you don't need to immediately buy another ICV RIGHT NOW... A competely failed ICV will throw a code - so in order to determine if it's bad - you first need to clear any/all stored codes in the DME.
best of luck!
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If you clear the DME codes - and then try the stomp test again and still get the "1444", my bet is the CPS is bad... Crank Position Sensor for whatever reason on the M42's does not and will not throw a code or CEL to show that it's bad. I don't know why that is, but in 99% of the threads posted on here (including my own very lengthy one a while back) AND on those posted on other BMW forums, a new CPS in an M42 should start that car... Especially if you have tried all of the aforementioned tests & component replacement (fuel filter, fuel pump is working, fuel pump relay is working, fuel pump fuse is good, DME is getting power if it shows ANY codes or blinks when doing the stomp test, DME relay is working, etc etc).
There are quite a few "non-start" threads that relate back to a failed CPS - definitely search them out on here, especially the one initially made by me - which had TONS of helpful info in there for the next person needing non-start help.
A bad ICV will cause some sporatic non-start or idle/drivability issues. If when turning the key ON, when you touch the ICV - is it humming or buzzing? If so, the ICV is powered. If there is NO hum or buzz, the ICV is dead. Take a small hammer and tap the outer casing, do you now feel any hum or buzz? If there is a hum or buzz, then try starting the vehicle - IF the vehicle starts, then the ICV needs to be cleaned (it's carboned up inside). After cleaning it, the car should run or operate for quite some time, enough so that you don't need to immediately buy another ICV RIGHT NOW... A competely failed ICV will throw a code - so in order to determine if it's bad - you first need to clear any/all stored codes in the DME.
best of luck!
yes, I removed the battery overnight and tried the stomp test. It gave me 1444. I've been reading a lot of threads about no start issues.
I will also check the ICV but it won't cause a no spark issue right? Now I'm %100 sure that it's the Crankshaft position sensor. I have someone coming this Saturday to see the car, if he doesn't buy it I'll probably buy a new CPS and try to install it my self. (Is there a DIY for it?)
thanks a lot for your help..
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I just went out to move the car and it started right up lol...
can a CPS do that (intermittent)?
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I just went out to move the car and it started right up lol...
can a CPS do that (intermittent)?
Yes
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deposit taken..
and SOLD.