M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Suspension => Topic started by: FL318is on August 16, 2006, 09:04:05 AM
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I have the replacement mounts (item #3).
http://www.realoem.com/bmw/showparts.do?model=AF93&mospid=47305&btnr=33_0213&hg=33&fg=30
Has anyone seen or done a DIY? Dosen't look like fun.
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Those are the Subframe mounts. Its possible to DIY, but its a lot of work. Google it and there should be quite a few writeups on it.
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The E30 manual found here does have the steps. I just will have to remember NO BEIR!
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D. Clay did his himself, and has some insightful (and funny) insights here. Depending how things are going under your car, it can be a major ass pain.
I have put off doing mine, and put off doing mine... you get the idea.
There's some fun stuff you can deal with when the subframe is off:
- trailing arm bushings
- reseal your diff + new speedo sensor
- stainless steel (or new) rear brake lines
- check your e-brake setup
- muffler!
- rear springs, shocks, and shock mounts
- rear swaybar mounts, tabs etc.
etc etc etc... it never ends...
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Going to do the wheel and axle pinion bearings I think thats what you call them) at the same time
I say we go in together and buy a garage with a lift. Thanks for the info, I will PM D. Clay.
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It's a royal PITA, usually because once you have the subframe dropped (which is a challenge in itself, especially without a lift & tranny jack) you will likely find a good chunk of the old bushing material and metal bits up in the housing it seats into (affixed to the body of the car).. or wraped around the subframe bolt.
The rear subframe bolt goes in through under the back seat of the car. It's hard to find and remove these and get rid of all that old material. Best way to do this is to probably bang out the old subframe bolts (long bolts) from below, and hope all the remaining material will come out below.
Install new bolts and washers, press in new bushings, and replace the rear subframe nuts (this is important) that thread on from below.
So, from that Real OEM diagram, you'll probably want to also replace #12, 2, 7, and I highly reccomend replacing 5 & 6 as they are cheap.
As Febi explained, when the subframe is out, this is the right time to replace the trailing arm bushings and bolts. I reccomend the factory rubber eccentric bushings with new bolts, but there are lots of options. #9 in the diagram is the trailing arm bushing.
Hopefully mine will come out easier this time as the bushings were just installed. I need to reposition my bushings on the rear subframe. Make sure yours are pushed in all the way. I reccomend taking some pictures of what the whole thing looks like before you start so you have a reference when putting it back together.
I want my own shop and lift! :rolleyes:
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Thanks M42. The shop is set up for this Saturday at 7am. I need to double check my shopping list.
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If you need the eccentric TA bushings and bolts ASAP, I can send you mine if you replace them later. You can rush deliver the bushings from Bav Autosport, but I can probably send them to you cheaper.
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I may take you up on that. Locally I have had some success. Thanks for the offer. I can find out first thing tomorrow morning.
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Okay, I'll bring them by the office tomorrow in case you need them, I can send them out. I just want to get the same thing back eventually as I'm going to pull the rear end out of my parts car and build it up and ready for my next E30. ;)
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FL318is... I just looked through my stockpile of parts. Unfortunately I only have one pair of the eccentric bushings, so you can only do one side. I need to order another pair.
So, Unfortunately, I don't think I'll be much help in your situation. Sorry, I must have messed up when I placed the order. :(
If you call Bav Autosport, they should be able to 2nd day deliver them. The dealer will be able to get you the nuts and bolts you need in 2-3 days. Order your stuff tomorrow!!!
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Its cool. As it turns out I can get them here. Sorry I didn't reply sooner. Woke up sick.
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I just ordered mine, Lemforder for 34$ a piece.
BTW, what frame bushings should i get? The normal ones or the eccentric ones?
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Its cool. As it turns out I can get them here. Sorry I didn't reply sooner. Woke up sick.
Did you get all the parts you needed off RealOEM?
Well, bring your digital camera and take notes on the process for all of us (especially on re-installation of the rear subframe and the rear wheel bearings). You can post it in the DIY section.
You may want to re-tap the bolt holes in your diff when you have it out. I did that, and made re-mounting it to the rear subframe much easier.
Good luck, and may the schwartz be with you (Diamondschwarz that is!) :D
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Did you get all the parts you needed off RealOEM?
You can post it in the DIY section.
You may want to re-tap the bolt holes in your diff when you have it out. I did that, and made re-mounting it to the rear subframe much easier.
Good luck, and may the schwartz be with you (Diamondschwarz that is!) :D
LOL Yeah we start tonight. Hoping the thunderstorms are done by then. Little scary with the garage doors open and seeing those lightning bolts. We got the TA's thru a local import supply (Triangle AutoParts). Real gear heads and they are poly. I agree the re-tap is great. So far we have been doing that on everything. It is amazing how clean and easy it makews redo. I will try to take pics but time is of the essence.
Maybe we should all chip in and start a DIY garage, LOL! Would love to have ya'll heppin' me!
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Tell one of your buddies to come out and will feed him free beer to stand there and be camera guy! :D
Works every time. I don't know how much help I'd be, but I guess I could be camera/beer drinkin' guy. I'm good at standing there with a beer and yelling "do this, or do that"... Hahaha.
I'm trying to start a DIY garage here, but I don't have much to throw towards it, and everyone else seems to be in the same boat. :(
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...I will def need a ride home. There is no way we are going to finish this job in a couple of hours. Not to mention that #$%^* Oil leak.:mad:
First thing we are going to do is remove the air box and alt & belt, run the car on a battery boost and watch for seepage. Then lift and separate.
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After hearing about all these disasterous events involving the timing chain, and the annoyance of all the persistant leaks... I can't see ANY advantage to a timing chain.
I'll mark that as one more reason to convert to an M or S50 motor! ;)
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Is there a correlation with a lot "spirited", high revvin' driving and timing chain trouble? A lot of these cars are on their 3rd-4th owner so a complete history usually unavailable. There are also a lot of them with 200,000 miles and 15 years on them. Perhaps this is just the inevitable and not a sign of a problem area. This stuff happened at 150,000 on Chevy small blocks from 1991.
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Never in 2 million years would you guess this!
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What am I looking at.... rear bushing?
I sure hope you're documenting all this.
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What am I looking at.... rear bushing?
I sure hope you're documenting all this.
Yes sir, rear bushing! Pic 1. Sorry so blurry, I was crying! LOL
These things were so corroded in there that they broke off. When they broke the upper 1/2 inch of bushing "tube" stayed in. HOWEVER, there is a solution. We used a small "pneumatic cuts - all" cutting into the remnants, then light hammer and chisel taps. The small fragments in the pic were what was removed. Then we had to "machine" finish the inside race of the cyclinder housing (were the bolt lives).
I am going to put all this together in a pictorial essay DIY format and offer it to the board.
But I will say the help I got here was 100% on the money and w/o it I would still be crying. My sincere appreciation to everyone. This is the place for car enthusiast.
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Wow, those suckers were in BAD shape! Good thing you replaced them.
How was the whole job? Is it all done?
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The mounts are done! The inner portion of the old mount separated from the main body portion of the bushing itself. Pic 1 shows. It was like pulling on bbq ribs. The bear was the aluminum cyclinder in the bushing itself would not release. After trying to coax with everything from tapping to wiggle to prying to channel locks to blaster we finally hit them firmly (not hard) and BOOM! They broke!!!!
Then we moved into the "now what the h#)) are we going to do?"
I have pics and wil post tonight.