M42club.com - Home of the BMW E30/E36 318i/iS
DISCUSSION => Engine + Driveline => Topic started by: 92BMW318is on December 20, 2009, 09:01:30 PM
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my car is the finest mo-pad ever,
after my fiasco with the spark plug wires and the coils,
i think i might of messed something up (which is a good way to learn i guess)
now when i turn on the 318is, it idles good and back fires every once in a while but i put it into first and it kinda spudders a bit (all horse power i use to have seems to be gone), so when its in 2nd gear, it lacks power still, and spudders like 1st,... in 3rd,4th,and 5th...
it eats up more gas then it should like in 3rd my mpg on the MPG gauge(under the rpm gauge) says im getting 8mpg, in 4th it says 10-15, 5th it says 15 it doesnt go any higher then that unless i take my foot off the pedal, also in 5th 4th and 3rd gear i barly make it up hills, like i said all horse power and acceleration is gone. ( on the highway i was driving up this lil hill and my car was losing speed gas pedal pressed to the floor, i was going 65mph and when i got to the top i was at like 45mph, haha the car accelerates good when going down hills)
this is what im thinking its one of the fuel injectors or the muffler,
my muffler doesnt have a CAT converter on it, and there were holes in the muffler pipe by the exhaust manifold, i used some of that cream exhaust sealant, the muffler sounds better but now the car lacks power.
what do you guys think?
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I think you misspelled moped, assuming you are referring to a lightweight, two-wheel vehicle of notoriously slow speeds.
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oooops ooo well,
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man dont mean to over post but i really need some help on this problem im having now, its eating at me
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My gauge does the same thing. It's not that accurate, just an idea of what the mileage is. I think you can even reprogram it.
Did you do the stomp test yet?
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My gauge does the same thing. It's not that accurate, just an idea of what the mileage is. I think you can even reprogram it.
Did you do the stomp test yet?
i can tell its being accurate, every 10 miles im losing 1 gallon, the car lacks soo much power right now, it can barly make it up hills, i dont understand why. i have done the stomp test i cant get it to read out anything,
i just bought new air filter and fuel filter, hoping that will help it.
i bought a multi meter to test the spark wires.
but if the spark wires are good,
the only thing i think it could be is the injectors
( off subject question) how do you get pictures under your name and sigitures with pics on every post?
what should i go about replacing first?
im not sure but i was also thinking that the o2 sensor could be it too
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are you sure that your spark plug wires are correct? sounds like you are getting about half the MPG you should be getting
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are you sure that your spark plug wires are correct? sounds like you are getting about half the MPG you should be getting
yeah im sure they are hooked up right now,
the engine runs now, it just lacks sooooo much power.
theres vertically no acceleration, its hard to make it up even the smallest of hills
im thinking the fuel filter is dirty, or the injectors are over feeding it gas.
yeah im not really sure, i was also thinking it might be the o2 sensor
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alright sooooo i took my car out today to test it note: still havent replaced air filter or fuel filter.. but i went on to the high way traffic was dead so i stoped in the middle of the high way with a stop watch and floored it, it took me 2 and a half mins to get from 0-60. shifting properly and everything.
tryed 2 time shifted in low rpms and high didnt make a diffrence
but the MPG gauge said i was geting 8 mpg the whole time
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you should take your car to a mechanic. I'm betting something is wrong with your spark plug wires
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I'd fix the check engine light, or you'll be replacing stiff left & right. Probably just a burned out bulb. Then it'll tell you what it thinks the trouble is.
The second thing I'd check is the computer. If the plenum flooded it might have shorted out. The early e36 was famous for it...google "wet dme" or "my 318 is dead" if you don't believe me. Here's a few links fer ya:
http://forums.roadfly.com/forums/bmw/bmw-3-series-e36/7159324-1.html
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum/showpost.php?p=5552421
You might be right about it running pig rich, but there is a lot of stuff that can cause that. You have to cut down the possibilities and isolate the trouble.
The likely problems (from cheap to expensive) are a big vacuum leak, coolant sensor, TPS/CPS/MAF/O2, bad coil or plug wire, slipped timing chain, blown head gasket, cracked head.
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are you sure that your spark plug wires are correct?
That's what I'm thinking as well.
The "corrected" diagram in the other topic is wrong.
The cylinders are numbered #1-4 front-to-back.
Assuming the car is using the factory-style wiring and routing, unaltered, the coils are #4-1-2-3, front-to-back, and the coil connectors from the engine wiring harness expect them to be in that sequence.
The OE ignition wires are numbered, and the coils are mounted with a small metal plate with the proper sequence. The only variable is if the wires to the coils have been rearranged; they are not labeled.
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That's what I'm thinking as well.
The "corrected" diagram in the other topic is wrong.
The cylinders are numbered #1-4 front-to-back.
Assuming the car is using the factory-style wiring and routing, unaltered, the coils are #4-1-2-3, front-to-back, and the coil connectors from the engine wiring harness expect them to be in that sequence.
The OE ignition wires are numbered, and the coils are mounted with a small metal plate with the proper sequence. The only variable is if the wires to the coils have been rearranged; they are not labeled.
I hope it's something that cheap & simple too. Try to avoid driving the car until you figure this out.
The engine is definitely 1-2-3-4 from the radiator. Plug wires might have numbers on them...they have to go to the matching cylinder or your timing will be off...it'll make the engine run like a moped. My coil harnesses had numbers on two plugs, I used paint marks to make sure I didn't get them mixed up...
Coil harnesses each have three wires. All of them have a brown ground wire, a green ground wire, and a colored positive wire to fire the coil. Each of those positive signal wires is a different color. Look up the wiring diagram or download the electrical troubleshooting manual & make sure you have the right plugs in the right coil. You can do a continuity test from the harness to the correct DME/ECU connector pins if required.
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i the stomp test got it to work the code is 1222
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i the stomp test got it to work the code is 1222
Good work... The notorious O2 sensor error. Could mean anything that I posted before though. Try to unplug the sensor & run without it to see if the car runs better. You can solder a Mustang 4-wire to save some $$$ if it's a bad sensor.
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I hope it's something that cheap & simple too. Try to avoid driving the car until you figure this out.
The engine is definitely 1-2-3-4 from the radiator. Plug wires might have numbers on them...they have to go to the matching cylinder or your timing will be off...it'll make the engine run like a moped. My coil harnesses had numbers on two plugs, I used paint marks to make sure I didn't get them mixed up...
Coil harnesses each have three wires. All of them have a brown ground wire, a green ground wire, and a colored positive wire to fire the coil. Each of those positive signal wires is a different color. Look up the wiring diagram or download the electrical troubleshooting manual & make sure you have the right plugs in the right coil. You can do a continuity test from the harness to the correct DME/ECU connector pins if required.
are there any specific sites that would have this diagram?
i have this hanes bmw book but it doesnt include spark plug wires in thier diagram
i have this book
(http://www.discountautorepairmanuals.com/images/18021-98.jpg)
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Membership has its benefits:
http://www.m42club.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7748
IMHO the Haynes is only adequate, the Bentley is the best. You're lucky to have an e36...us e30 guys need two...the M42 isn't in the e30 manual...
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also i almost forgot would not having a cadilitic converter mess with the o2 sensor, and after i changed the spark plugs i jacked up the car & put this muffler sealent cream on this weld on the muffler that was leaking by the o2 sensor i put the cream around the o2 sensor too would that of messed it up?
going to buy a new o2 sensor tommarow
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Do not get an OEM sensor. Get the Ford unit Dave was talking about.
And simply out of curiosity, did you disconnect the harness at the coils when you changed the wires? If you did, i'm betting you reversed two of them.
And you should be getting well over 30mpg. I was getting near 42hwy before my stroker and 36hwy after.
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Do not get an OEM sensor. Get the Ford unit Dave was talking about.
And simply out of curiosity, did you disconnect the harness at the coils when you changed the wires? If you did, i'm betting you reversed two of them.
And you should be getting well over 30mpg. I was getting near 42hwy before my stroker and 36hwy after.
i just got this car like 2 or 3 weeks ago so far i think im doing good fixing it, besides all the hang ups im having. the motor is hard to work on seems the germans put 10 to many parts on it ha,
but... actually you are correct i did have the first and last wire mixed up, but im still going to replace the o2 sensor for good measure,
also what kinda clutch do you have in your car?
would a diffrent stage clutch decrease gas milage like a 2nd stage clutch
cant thank you guys enuf for your help
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I have a Euro 323 clutch and FW in my car. FW weighs in at 11.9lbs. Not sure of the weight on the clutch and pressure plate.
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I have a Euro 323 clutch and FW in my car. FW weighs in at 11.9lbs. Not sure of the weight on the clutch and pressure plate.
stage 1 or 2 or 3?
i have a stage 2 clutch, didnt know what the big deal was between the stages
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Custom setup. Not a particular stage. The stock flywheel is over 28 lbs. And this one is 11.9 but all OEM parts. So a 16lb reduction is as much as you can get IIRC. There may be an 8lb aluminum aftermarket for a 325 that you could put on. But I don't recommend it. The setup I have is very stiff and holds plenty of power. It also makes a shit load of noise from the TOB.
BMW opted for the heavier dual mass for a couple reasons. The main reasons were the noise and the difficulty of engagement on that motor. It's not bad by any means, but it does get a little annoying.
But there is somewhat of a power difference and it flies through the RPM range now.