The purpose of this guide is to show you how to make your car clean, presentable, and keep it that way, as cheaply and easily as possible. All while using readily available items. Not all of these are needed to achieve the desired results. However, they will make your job easier and faster. When I can, I will make recommendation based on what you want, or alternative items. My goal is to find cheap and easy to acquire items. In other words, no extremely expensive stuff, and readily available at your local auto parts store.

Keep in mind is that while it may seem like a lot, after you start to acquire them, they run out at different times, so you will only be spending a small amount every so often. In the end, all of this is still better and cheaper than paying for an automated car wash/wax facility. You will thanks yourself each time you find something that works better than before and probably curse yourself for not spending $2-$10 sooner rather than waiting. I think to get started I spent about $20 per month for a few months and acquired nearly everything needed and kept up supplies. It takes about $10 every month or so to replenish supplies for someone who washes their car almost every weekend.

The guide is laid out in sections from common, normal items to seasonal and one time type of jobs.

Complete list of items use in this article.

Printable copy of consumables/tools
Substitutes are listed in each section, or use your best judgment.

Consumables Used (all readily available at your nearest auto parts store, primarily AutoZone)
Soap (Meguiar's Car Shampoo)
Paper Towels (nothing special)
Tire Cleaner (Eagle One Shine)
Wheel Cleaner (Meguiar's Gold Class Hot Wheel Shine)
Clay (Blue Magic -Clay Magic. Meguiar's Gold Class Quick Clay
Paint restoration chemicals (Meguiar's Deep Crystal)
Carpet Cleaner (Turtle Wax Carpet Cleaner (with brush))
Goo Gone ( for any stickers and junk)
Wax/Polish/Sealer (Eagle One Wet Polish & Wax, Zymol Cleaner Wax, Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Wax, Gold Class Glaze, Gold Class Polish, Gold Class Sealer) I prefer The Meguiar's stuff)

Those with diving boards will need something for the chrome as well.

Tools
Bucket
Wash Mitt
California Car Duster (For mid week dusting)
Towels (Invest in Micro Fiber Towels A 6 pack will do)
Brush for wheels (Any will work, I recommend at least 2 large ones, a complete brush kit is better)
Wax Applicators (6 pack of micro fiber, these are awesome, washable too)
Rags (old T-shirts)
Vacuum cleaner (and ear plugs!)
Razor blade (for any stickers on the windows)

*Just a note regarding brake pads. Some pads dust can be terrible for your wheels. I switched to Axxis Ultimates and I got better brakes, and their dust is far easier to remove, and there is generally less of it. A good thing on BBS wheels, since they can be a nightmare to clean. So while they are better for performance they are also good for keeping your car clean. I highly recommend them

Care/Handling of your wash materials.
Do yourself a BIG favor, combine all these items into a kit.  I keep soap, tire cleaner, and wheel cleaner on a shelf with my waxes, polishes etc. The towels brush, and mitts, I keep in the bucket inside a cupboard where dust is kept off of them.

Cleaning your cleaning supplies. When you are done, simply rinse out your bucket and shove any clean dry towels in it. If you follow the wash guide, very little dirt will be in it when we're done (Trust me, you will see). Immediately wash your towels/mitts. If you wait, you may forget, or they may become harder to clean. When you put them in the dryer, DO NOT add fabric softener. This may sound backwards, but, softeners leave a wax residue on items, this is what makes them feel soft, but also makes them terrible for absorbing water. Sort of self defeating isn't it. I do not soften my bath towels either. Makes a big difference. Also, wash on cold. Why? Basically heat can break down cloth. It also sets stains if it does not come out. I also recommend a low heat setting for drying.

I would recommend not washing your applicator pads. I washed mine 3 times, each with 1/4-1/2 can of Coca Cola, a bit of Simple Green and 2 types of detergent. It took 3 washings to get them reasonably clean. Even then, you could squeeze and still get wax out of them, and they left a ring of dirty wax inside the wash bin. They only cost a few bucks. Buy new ones.

Washing your car
A bucket. This may sound trivial, but get a bucket and dedicate it to washing cars. Far too often people use them for random things. What is the point of washing your car if your bucket is dirty to begin with. Get one, label it, fight over it, whatever you need to do. Initially, I had to hide mine to keep family members from using it. Do yourself a favor and keep a dedicated one. This way you always know where it is, and how clean it is.

Wash Mitt. This is another of those where people use a rag. If you must use a towel/rag/etc. Do yourself a favor, get a dedicated one. Same reasons as the bucket. A real mitt, is one of those kick yourself items. They really make washing easier and faster. I am now kicking myself for waiting so long. They are about $3 for a cheap one, a small price to pay for something that makes your life easier and washing faster.

Soap Leave the dish soap for dishes. Buy some car shampoo. It truly does work better. It will not strip your wax, dish soap can partially, or fully strip, and can leave residue.

Drying towels. Once again, get you something for drying. If you have a waxed car, I recommend micro fiber towels. (I only use 2 6in. towels to dry my car!). If your car has not been waxed in a while or no wax, you will need larger towels. Find some old T-shirts or some old bath towels.

Tire cleaner. Just using a brush and soapy water is better than nothing, but there is better. For super click wet stuff, you are on your own. I would recommend trying Eagle One wet or maybe Maguire's NXT Insane Shine. I however prefer a deep natural (satin) black look. Which it seems a lot of people do, but companies prefer to advertise wet stuff. I tried Maguire's NXT stuff and was disappointed. It left it natural alright, flat back with no shine at all. Almost looked like I had done nothing. What I have found and like is Eagle One tire Shine. It is exactly what I was looking for.

Paper towels. Paper towels? Nope. Not for your windows, notice no Window cleaner either.

Duster California Car Duster. These are handy for those days you cannot wash, but need to clean. You may think it is a joke, but they are nice to have, and they work great.

Brush. For wheel cleaning. You may want 2. One for wheels, and one for tires. Some people may feel the need for detail brushes. If you are into a full on show look, you may want them. Personally, my car is a driver. I just want it to look good. Not impress judges at my precision cleaning when they stick their nose 6 inches away. I only use one brush and it is a wide one, it gets in between even the BBS spokes decently..

Wheel Cleaner. BUY SOME. It will make your life so much easier. They can do in 30 seconds what no amount of soap and scrubbing can accomplish. Seriously. I spent hours with brushes, Simple Green, soap, and more trying to get baked on brake dust off my rims, thanks to a previous owner who I do not think cleaned the rims the entire time he owned it, probably the owner before that as well. I had resigned myself to getting the wheels refinished when I finally bought some good wheel cleaner. Now, I admit, it did not get all of it off in one application. I did 2, and got a huge percentage off, and it got better every time I washed the car after that. What I use is Maguire's Gold Class Instant Wheel Cleaner. If you are like me, this is the item you will run out of most often.

Actually Washing.
Most people spray on water, add some dish soap with a rag, rinse and dry. While it is better than a machine wash, (which are MURDER on your car), There is more to it than that.

Before you start, put your wipers up so hey are out of your way.

Start with your tires. Use the tire cleaner first, I do not even wet them yet. I usually spray the cleaner on, the add some to the brush. When scrubbing, just go around in circles a few times getting everything. Then I add a second coat of tire cleaner, without scrubbing. Wait about 10-20 seconds and spray off with HIGH pressure. It has long been rumored that Armor All actually sucks the oil from the rubber in your tires, while I have had a similar experience with it, I cannot say for sure if it was responsible. At any rate, I stay clear of it.

Now do your wheels. I spray on liberal amounts of cleaner, add some to the brush, then use the brush (be sure to rinse it thoroughly if you only have one). Start with a swirl over the spokes to spread the cleaner, then start scrubbing from the hub center towards the rim and back. This gets the spokes pretty well. The swirl the outside edge and inner cap section. Do a quick cleanup around the valve stem. Then hose off with High pressure.

Wheel wells. Spray these out at this time with high pressure as well. If you live in an area with salted roads, you may want to heavily soak this area. Otherwise you will only be getting the salt wet again.

Rinsing
Sounds easy, but odds are you are doing it wrong. How do you do it right? Well first off, always rinse and wash from the top down. No point in pushing dust where you already sprayed or washed. Second, most people use high pressure. Again wrong. You want low pressure. The hose is used to rinse away loose dust, not blast away crud. It is also meant as a partial lubricant for the washing to come. We do wheels first due to the chemicals used, we do not want to get cleaner on our freshly washed car. Many paint shops do not use a nozzle when they are cleaning.

Bugs If you have any bug spots, tear off a piece of paper towel and wet it, now place it over each bug and move on. We will comeback to them.

Soaping. Finally!
As mentioned earlier start with your roof. Then windows, trunk then hood. Then start on the sides (mirrors first) and rear of the car. Only go down to the trim. Basically top to bottom, cleanest to dirtiest. Now do the rear bumper, lower sides, then front. As you encounter bugs, pull away the paper towel. Odds are, the bugs will wipe away easily. No need for bug remover (tar is another story).

Some important notes. On your license plate, scrub up and down, side to side, and then up and down again. People tend to go side to side, wrong, Remember, letters and numbers are vertical. You get a better scrub vertically. As you are washing, do one half of a panel, then flip your rag/mitt. Mitts can go a bit further, use your own judgment. Before you put your wash rag/mitt back in the bucket, spray it off with the hose. This does 2 things. It keeps the crap out of your water, and therefore away from your paint, but also replenishes your bucket. Do a wash without spraying and one with, and you will be amazed at the difference when you are done. You can do 3 cars with rinsing and still have cleaner water. Be sure to keep the entire car wet the entire time you are washing. Otherwise minerals in the water will create spots. If you have a water softener (not a filter) I recommend finding a faucet that is not softened. Softeners use salt. I think we all know what salt does to cars.

Do a final rinse and move the car into your garage. Be sure to rinse the wheels good to get anything off that may have gotten on them while washing. Remember, low pressure.

A note about pressure washers...
Simply put, they are BAD, very bad. Clear coat on a car is softer than paint (white cars rarely actually get clear coat), the clear coat is designed to take damage so the paint does not have to. Being softer though, can be a problem. This is why waxes and such had to be reformulated. So why are pressure washers bad? Because they are so strong, they actually push dirt into the clear coat. Over time this will make the paint look dull. The only fix is hoping a buffer can get it all out by removing a lot of clear coat.

Drying. Once in the garage away from the sun (or people speeding down the dirt road alongside your house), you can start drying. Once again, top down. Basically, I use 2 micro fiber towels. One for an initial dry, which I ring out regularly, and a second used for final drying. This even works well enough on windows that you should not need a window cleaner.

After stuff. Yup, still more.
Open each door, use the final dry towel. You can do the inside of the windows, dash, and any other surface. Many detailers primarily use soap and water. They use chemicals only when needed. After that, wipe the door entryway/jams, do not forget the actual door, and sill. Open your trunk, gas filler, hood, sunroof etc. and be sure to wipe dry those areas as well.. After all that, take one of your drying towels, ring it out, and wipe off the edge of your windshield wipers. These are often neglected and just wiping them off each wash, will make them last much longer.

I use a California Car Duster for those days between washes that it looks especially dusty, or after a rainfall until I can wash it. far from a full wash, it is better than driving a dirty car.

Wax
Items Needed:
Wash materials (see wash section, skip if you have done it)
A Clay bar kit (see Clay section, skip if you have done it, or have no need to at this time)
Polish and/or Wax (possibly sealant and/or glaze as well).
I recommend the following:
Eagle One Wet. This works well on its own. Has great depth, but not the best gloss. If you only have time for one thing after stripping, this is your choice. It is not a bad choice either.
Zymol. In some ways, I really like Zymol, in other ways I don't. It is harder to work, but lasts probably the longest. It also has great depth and has pretty good gloss. It requires a misting of water and a wipe after you are done to level it though or you can get streaks. One other thing, it will show any paint discoloration, such as miss-matched paint very badly and leaves horrid white on rubber.
Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Wax works well. Last quite a long time. Offers good shine and ok depth. Glaze or another wax/polish under it helps (particularly those above). I prefer this. It seems to love multiple layers. Even on itself. Once in a while you get streaks, the leveling trick for Zymol works and it only lasts a short time.
 

Waxing

Want to know a secret... What causes swirls in paint? Buffers? Just the way paint reacts to pollutants? The sun? Nope. Owners do. While a machine can do it, most swirls on cars are because of the owner. "Wax On, Wax Off" is the worst thing you can do while waxing. Never go in circles unless specifically told to do so by the wax manufacturer. Another thing, do not buy the $2 tub of paste wax or polish. trust me, they are not worth the $2 you paid. Think of it this way, the container costs $2, how much can the wax be worth. Give your car a break, buy some good stuff. Besides, you are going to spend more effort using those, and as the old saying goes, is your car worth the best or the worst. Truth be told though, the best waxes can run several hundred dollars an ounce (yes, an ounce!). But for us, and most street rodder/average collector car type of guy a $10 bottle of wax is about enough, which is plenty good enough for us.

First things first, wash the car following the guide. Never do anything to your paint without washing first.
Then follow the clay bar guide to remove any old wax, again paying attention while drying. If you are just adding to what is already there, skip this step. When your paint feels grungy after washing, it is time to clay bar. If the paint s looking cloudy, you should clay bar as your wax needs to be changed, probably too many layers..

Remember most liquid wax/polishes, glaze, and sealers require you to shake the bottle.

If all looks good and water is starting to lose its bead ability, I can tell buy how the car dries when it needs wax. Eventually you will too.

Wax
You have tons of choices. I have several favorites. Mixing waxes (one layer on top of another) can often yield amazing results too. A good one I found was Meguiar's wax on top of Eagle One Wet.

Eagle One Wet. This works well on its own. Has great depth, but not the best gloss. If you only have time for one thing after stripping, this is your choice. It is not a bad choice either.
Zymol. In some ways, really like Zymol, in other ways I don't. It is harder to work, but lasts probably the longest. It also has great depth and has pretty good gloss. It requires a misting of water and a wipe after you are done to level it though or you can get streaks. One other thing, it will show any paint discoloration, such as miss-matched paint very badly and leaves horrid white on rubber.
Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Wax works well. Last quite a long time. Offers good shine and ok depth. Glaze or another wax/polish under it helps (particularly those above). I prefer this. It seems to love multiple layers. Even on itself. Once in a while you get streaks, the leveling trick for Zymol works and it only lasts a short time.

For any wax, follow their directions. And again, NO CIRCLES unless told to..

If the wax you are using requires it to dry, if you are not getting a good haze when dry, then you are using too little. If it has wet and dry spots, you obviously need to thin those areas and work on consistency. No one gets it perfect. I tend to do 2 layers, just to be sure Ii get everything.

When to strip, and how to tell when you should.
I try to strip every spring and fall. Then add wax every 2-3 months. Winter I do less. Some places say you should wax every month. Not going to likely happen if you live in bad environment. They also assume people will use automated washes every now and again and leave their cars outside a lot, I do not. After 8 or so washes I can tell a difference in the wax, but the wax is still working, and beading water, just not as good as I would like.. I like when my car has sat outside in the rain, only to come out and see big water beads, and as I drive away and brake, see it running off the car leaving it dry. That is a good wax job!

Exterior detail
This is a bad section for some cars. the E30 being no exception. Most of us probably have faded black trim. Some worse than others. One particularly trouble spot is the side trim just in front of the rear wheel well. On 2 doors (not sure on 4 doors) this piece tends to be problematic in that it fades. For some reason it is not the same rubber as the other pieces, or at least it seems that way. Diving board plastic seems to have similar problems, this stuff should fix it.

Some people swear by Black Chrome. I have 2 problems with this. First it ONLY works on black, second it is die based. So if you get it on something, it will stain it, at least this is what I hear. I have not used it. It is not available locally. Which seems dumb to use something that you use semi-regularly that needs to be ordered. If I can find some, I will try it. I have been told you should actually mask off the areas around the black. Sounds like nasty stuff to me. Granted if you cannot get it looking good any other way...

Other people prefer Back To Black. Some like it, some do not. The first time you use it, it does great, for a short time. What I found was it needs to be put on thick. Every time you apply it, it will last longer. It may take a while but it appears to really restore the rubber nicely, its just many of us are too impatient. The good news, it does not appear to be harmful to paint, or wax (as long as it is not on the rubber. It will leave a grease mark, so be careful. Avoid getting as much on your paint as possible. It also can be used on flat black paint, and other colored trim. Not just black. First time I did my car, it lasted about a month and a half. I tried it on a Toyota Pick Up, it lasted about a month. Did it on a Nissan Sentra, and it lasted months. My car it is now lasting several months now, but I found something new to try.

My current choice is Meguiar's Gold Class (I am about as tired of typing is as you are of hearing probably) Vinyl and Rubber Protectant. It goes on with far less work than the others. It also can be used on any rubber or vinyl, regardless of color. I have no idea how long it will last though. I only applied it the other day. Seems very similar to Back To Black, except it is a spray gel/goo. It does get my vote for worst nozzle design, though.

With Back To Black, or Meguiar's, simply wipe it on. With Back To Black, you will need to rub this into the rubber. Make sure you shake them well. I use this on all my flat trim, as well as rubber.

For you guys with diving board chrome, I would investigate some chrome cleaners and polishers. If you have rust, look for Semi-Chrome polish. Another thing I have seen work is Coca-Cola and aluminum foil. Seems to leave a good shine on bumpers.

Not really a whole lot of exterior work on later model E30's.

Interior Detail
As mentioned above. Most detailers use just plain water, or soapy water for most of the interior, and use chemicals when they need to. I personally use a damp micro fiber towel. It does as well as most things.

For the vinyl, again, I use the cloth. I have recently tried Meguiar's Leather wipes. Problem is, they leave everything slippery, and wet looking. I dislike that, and for seats, it is terrible, as you will slide around. I will admit, it did at least clean things some.

I have also tried Blue Magic's, and Meguiar's sprays, while they did not leave anything slick, they did not really do anything more than the water did. Basically unless you really need to clean, use water. I would steer clear of Armor All. Not to mention the slick surface it leaves.

Carpet..
Mine was crap. When I bought a car recently that needed lots of work (The Miata). I needed carpet cleaner. What I found was Turtle Wax has one with a built in brush. Worked great on the Miata, and just as well on the BMW. the directions say to spray, then vacuum. Don't! Do yourself a favor, vacuum first. Then spray, then vacuum again when the carpet is dry.

Window stickers.. Use a razor blade and Goo Gone. Works like a champ.

Engine bay.
Coming soon.

Claying
Items needed:
Clay bar kit (average cost about $12), try Bluemagic - Clay magic, or Meguiar's Gold Class Clay Bar

Clay? What the hell? Why are we doing with clay? Well, claying has been around a while, but only to professionals. It has finally trickled down to the masses. What it does it the clay is sticky, soft, and absorbent. Basically t grabs a hold of pollutants in your paint and sticks to them as it glides over, Those particles are them embedded into the clay where they can no longer harm your paint. Sort of like sucking water out of carpet with a paper towel, only we are doing it with paint. This leaves your paint clean and smooth like you cannot imagine.

I recommend either Clay Magic or Meguiar's lay kits. First time you do this, expect a few hours of work. It is worth it though as your paint becomes silky smooth. Also keep in mind, your car will be completely striped of wax and dirt, so it will not be protected from any contaminants, or anything else.

Get your clay bar, cut it in half. Place half of it aside for next time. Take that half and divide it up. Scissors work. You need to divide it into 7 pieces. Once again, we start at the top and work our way down towards the bottom and dirtiest areas. If you drop the clay on the ground, DO NOT try to continue to use it, no matter what. Grab another piece. You will destroy your paint if you do. If you keep dropping it, place a clean towel under you.

Take the second largest chunk and shape it into a bal. Now squeeze it into a disk. Spray a 6-12in area of the roof with the Quick Lube/Quick Detail (whichever came in the clay kit). Now, with your index and middle finger push the clay around this area. Do not push down, you want the clay to glide. You should be able to feel the dirt and such. That grinding is the clay trying to pick up the dirt embedded in your paint. Keep doing that area until it feels smooth. The dirt will embed itself in the clay away from your paint, that is as long as you se lube and do not press to hard.. And do NOT go in circles! Go back and forth, up and down.

Do yourself a favor, and run a finger across an area you have not done, going across the area you just did and back onto an undone area. Feel a difference? Should feel a lot different. No finish one half of the roof 5-12 niches at a time. When you get done with that half, flip the clay over (stop and look at it first, all that crap came out of your paint!), and do the other side. Do the hood the same way. When you get done with that, use one side of that piece to do one side of the front of the car, flip it and do the other half. The front is the worst area, so using this piece is fine. Trunk do similar. On the sides, on a 2 door, do a fender and half of the door, splitting the section in 1/4's, do one half above the beltline, flip, other half, then do the bottom half the same way. Do the same for the rear half of the car with another piece and then the other side of the car the same way. 4 Doors, split at the doors

Clay can also be used to do your windows. Works great, but beware, any scratches, pits, etc will show really bad.

Use clay when your paint feels grimy after a wash or your need to strip the wax. It can also be used to remove stubborn bugs, and tar.

 Now, go and re-wash your car, and allow it to completely dry before you move on.

Restoring paint

Items Needed:
Wash materials (see wash section)
A Clay bar kit (see the clay section)
Meguiar's Deep Crystal Paint System
Polish and/or Wax (possibly sealant and/or glaze as well).
I recommend the following:
Eagle One Wet. This works well on its own. Has great depth, but not the best gloss. If you only have time for one thing after stripping, this is your choice. It is not a bad choice either.
Zymol. In some ways, I really like Zymol, in other ways I don't. It is harder to work, but lasts probably the longest. It also has great depth and has pretty good gloss. It requires a misting of water and a wipe after you are done to level it though or you can get streaks. One other thing, it will show any paint discoloration, such as miss-matched paint very badly and leaves horrid white on rubber.
Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Coat Wax works well. Last quite a long time. Offers good shine and ok depth. Glaze or another wax/polish under it helps (particularly those above). I prefer this. It seems to love multiple layers. Even on itself. Once in a while you will get streaks, the leveling trick for Zymol works but can take a an hour to a day to level .

This is tricky. Since clear coat may be gone, paint may be faded, swirls etc. Much of this can be fixed in a weekend. You will need some different items besides just was to do this.

I will not lie to you, this will likely cost you around $40-$60 if you do not have anything required beforehand. It will also likely take you a weekend starting on Friday night. Hey, it is cheaper than a paint job!

Notice, I do not use buffers. A buffer will make the job faster, BUT you can royally screw up your paint. If you must, make sure it is a dual action. Meguiar's and Porter Cable offers them. The Meguiar's model can be found at AutoZone. Expect to pay $160 and up for a chance to ruin your paint for good. You can burn through the paint, burn it, or grind through on bumps and high spots. Learn how to do it by hand first.

First things first, wash the car following the guide.
Then follow the clay bar guide, again paying attention while drying.

Now that we have a clean car, we start actually correcting paint fade and such. Try not to skip anything, as it will hurt the end result, despite what you may think. Skimping on paint restoration is bad. You are taking things to the bare paint, removing its protection, cleaning it, adding nutrients, and re-building the paint's protection after giving the paint a nice shine. If you skip something, and the end result turns out bad, you will have to start all over again. Why? Because you cannot do anything to the paint under all that protection, which means a wash, and clay barring again. That is a lot of work.

First up is Meguiar's Deep Crystal System Paint Cleaner. This will remove much of the blemishes, fade, and oxidation. You will need one of your applicators as well as a rag. Do not allow this to dry on your car. You are supposed to work it and remove it. If you let it dry, in extreme cases, it will cause buildup, dark or pale, dingy buildup. Once again you will not believe what comes out of your paint. Same as before, DO NOT GO IN CIRCLES. Go side to side, up and down. Work in small areas, around 12inches x 12inches at a time. If necessary, repeat until you no longer see improvement or are satisfied. Warning. Too many times and you can actually rub through your paint. Do not fret if t does not look perfect yet, it will get better with each step to follow. All we are looking for is good solid color all around. Depth, clarity, etc are not the real concern yet. 2 or 3 applications should be plenty. Try to keep removing with a clean section of rag. Get the Deep Crystal off, and then use less and less pressure, buff it to a shine.

Next up is polish. Once again we turn to Meguiar's. This time it is Gold Class Polish. Follow the same procedure as the Deep Crystal, Use a different applicator and rag. I recommend 2 or 3 applications.

At this point you have some choices. You can proceed to a glaze, sealer, or move on to wax. If your paint is that bad, go for the glaze, Follow once again the same procedure, 2 or 3 times, different applicators and rags. Using Eagle One Wet at this point works well. I prefer to use Meguiar's Mirror Glaze.

Wax, this is tricky.
You have tons of choices. I have several favorites. Mixing waxes (one layer on top of another can often yield amazing results too. A good one I found was Meguiar's wax on top of Eagle One Wet.

For any wax, follow their directions. And again, NO CIRCLES.

Read the wax section for more tips.